Jack

Winnie ...do it yourself - only took me 16 hours over a weekend. Never done one before, scared to death all the way through the proceedure - but it's fundamentally easy, just loads to take off to get at it and loads to put back on when you've finished. good luck Jack

Mick ...afraid you've lost me on this one. If it's not the speed sensor the my money is on the rack. The belt needs to be reasonably tight, but if it was too slack then you'd hear it squeal at start-up especially when it's damp. I don't know of pump's giving up, but racks definately. Someone on here must have experience of replacing a steering rack - lets hope you get a definitive answer. If you don't, you could always fit skinny front tyres and inflate them to 60psi - or, fit 2 pace savers, that should do it... good luck Jack

Mick ...tell us what the symptoms are. I've replace tie rods, disks (as you know) pads, tyres, had tracking done, know about sagging springs, dry shocks and mounting bushes, replaced prop bearing, gearbox mount, and even rotated the cv joints on the prop - so I'm into where the vibration's coming from - so might be able to help. cheerz Jack

...sorry forgot to mention also. that I've found that as the pads are getting close to needing replacing, the wheels judder when braking. Bang in a new set of pads and the judder dissapears. Don't know why, but there it is. So, buy new pads first, because your disks might be ok. cheerz Jack

Mick ...I replaced the front disks on my na about 2 years ago. Had the usual stuff, first set sent through were tt disks, 5 mm thicker and with a different offset, 2nd set were for the pre 89 300zx, and luckily, the third set fitted with the aid of a 3mm spacer between the disk and the hub. All this time later they are still in good condition. I got them from JRT automotive, mail order, tel 01494 792211 at about £48 each. I think Terry at JRt had EBC machine the nearest they could find off the shelf. They were Japanese made and came in EBC boxes. If you want I've got a sketch showing the exact dimensions of an na front disk. Give me your fax number and I'll send it across. Only problem is the 3mm spacer lifts the disc off the self-centering flange on the hubs so you need to be carefull when you tighten up the wheel nuts to ensure the disk is dead centre - otherwise you get a slight vibration in the steering wheel. But having said all of this I'd be talking to Mike Freeney if I was you - I believe he runs na 300 - 01277 374201. I've ordered stuff from him and he's always prompt. good luck Jack

...no problem - I could do with a diversion - highlight of the day's been the Tesco's pork pie for lunch...

...I was thinking of Nelson when I mentioned mass - no religious pun intended (purely weight reduction) - but now you mention it, you have to ask who thought of holding miss world in Nigeria in the first place... I did some work recently for a telco consultant working in Nigeria and he had a few stories tell - doesn't sound like a safe place...

you are most likly right... Removing the spare wheel and the jack etc (steel in an NA) will have a greater long-term effect on fuel economy and performance - and I've run without either since I got the car almost 3 years ago. I've also removed all the AIV stuff from under the arches too - but I'm always wary about talking about weight reduction in case the word mass incites more roiting. ...many thanks for your advice. cheerz Jack

Willie ...I hear what you say, but I thought it was mainly to do with rotating weight. The standard pulley is heavy so takes more energy to turn it. The lighter one uses less so the car accelerates quicker. Simple theory so appeals to my mind... If I ever get/fit one I'll let you know if they are any good. cheerz Jack

...and an underdrive pulley (don't forget the belts). The tt underdrive pulleys are different to the na ones - makes buying second hand in the UK difficult - in fact, anyone got one for sale? cheerz Jack

Mike ...all my belts looked ok - you could (still can) read the blue Nissan writing on them. But because it's a jap import (no history) I changed the timing belt only. I had to do 'it' again 6 months later to sort a leaking water pump. Didn't do the 'other' stuff as it all looked ok, and I maintain that the 'other' stuff is only done for 2 reasons... bits are cheap in America so why not, and, it takes such a long time to get down to the timing belt that you might as well do everything else while you are down there (only applies if you are paying a mechanic). So, if you are keen on DIY, save yourself some money and only replace the belt. good luck Jack

bloke I work with, his girlfriends sisters fella is thinking of selling his. He imported it himself, but works abroad a lot so it's under a tarpaulin most of the time in Essex. Let me know and I'll get the details. cheerz Jack

Stu ...if it's one tooth missing on the flywheel, the chance of locating that point every time you try and start the car would be minimal, so I'd suggest it's something less awkward. A loose wire on the solenoid would also give you the effect you are talking about. Normally, if the solenoid wire has worked loose, it won't kick the starter into gear, and by rocking the car, the loose wire intermittently makes contact, and the car starts (used to be a common fault on early Saab 900s) - in fact it was the easiest way to disable a Saab if you didn't want it stealing. I'd start by looking for this fault, then the motor working loose, then a faulty / sticking solenoid - and last of all the teeth on the flywheel - although I also know someone who had to replace the flywheel through broken teeth. good luck Jack

Stu ...the starter motor is a big heavy lump and is held on by 2 bolts ONLY. I've removed mine a couple of times (timing belt and waterpump). It's easy to check if one of the bolts has worked loose or stripped the ally that they are screwed into. I had to replace one of mine with a larger diameter bolt, so it's most likly a common fault. Give me a shout and I'll pop round and have a look if you want. cheerz Jack

...it all looks stock and in good knick with the benefit of leather. If the mileage is true then it's a bargain (difficult to say that but what else are you going to get for £4k that's as exotic). And it's manual so you'll be able to stir the box. I'd email the owner and take it for a test drive. Any issues you find just drop me an email and if I can, I'll tell you what's what. ...tempted myself... good luck

Dan ...the 2+2 na is a great package. I've owned one for nearly 3 years, I use it for business travel as well as social and my first set of cheap tyres lasted nearly 40k miles, I've replaced pads, front disks, timing belt and water pump and air filters - all DIY. All of the 'difficult' technology is missing, making the car very affordable to own. When I bought it from an import garage, it needed a few things sorting, but overall was in very good nick (Japanese weather). The na weighs 3313 lbs and the TT weighs 3495 lbs - it's like taking a 13 stone bloke out of the TT passenger seat. So, you get a reasonably responsive car, it drives 'lighter' than a TT, but it's still quite heavy. Drive all day at 85 and it's like going for a stroll in the park - do the same on a beefed-up saloon, and you're knackered. Take the roof off and drive round France and they all think it's a Ferrari... (got to be red). I could go on and on. Biggest problem is what am I going to chop it in for? good luck Jack ...ps my insurance premium is because I'm 51 - growing old disgracefully...

Dan ...I'm your man - I bought a non-turbo in preference to a TT almost 3 years and I've no regrets and no desire for a TT. The na is about 2 pasengers lighter than the TT so less technology to go wrong - and here's the added value, most of the na technology is the same as the TT so it's designed to withstand the hammering the TT's are capable of dishing out. So, you get all the looks of one of the best designed cars on the road without most of the hassle. Only thing you have to put up with is faster cars - but hey, you cant take the roof off a Subaru... ...oh and I nearly forgot, read about my annual premium of £431 from the Co-op, and I do 15k miles per year and at the last check, it's returning 29.55 mpg on Optimax. good luck Jack

...as promised yesterday. Jap import 300zx NA, unlimited mileage, business use, £50 excess, fully comp, 70% NCD protected, dob 21.1.51(old git), driver and wife - annual premium £431.43 from Co-operative Insurance Society. Great isn't it, there's no tel number on the documentation other than my local (Ipswich) agent. You'll have to check your local Yellow Pages for a tel number. Previous year the premium was £365.54, but there was discount as I was a new customer, and my wife and son were already insured through the Co-op. good luck Jack

John ...I got all sorts of sharp intakes of breath, then a good price from the Co-op. I didn't believe them so I went down to their office, went through the process again as a total stranger and got the same reply. So I wrote out a cheque there and then, and a year later, the premium went up (about £64) in line with etc etc. I phoned them to check if it was anything to do with JAP IMPORT, but no, they were ok, just in keeping with national rises etc etc. Thing is, I've had similar circumstances when I bought a Fiat - and I cant spell this - cincequento - for my wife so that my daughter could learn to drive. Swinton wanted £1200 (group 1) and we went with the Co-op for about £265 fully comp. Why the difference? I asked Swinton and they said that they were not good at insuring learner drivers. Really, they didn't want the business. And I think this is the central crux. Find a company that does want the business and you'll get a good price... good luck Jack

...I'll dig out my insurance stuff from home and give you the details tomorrow morning when I'm back at work. It is CIS - Co-operative Insurance Society - and I get a discount cos my wife insures through them also. AND, last year it was about £345... I insured through Tesco before that and on renewal they decided that my jap import was a JAP IMPORT and wanted £200 extra - that's when I shopped around - got loads of silly answers, then contacted the co-op and bit their arm off...

...the Co-op turned out to be the cheapest - also Jap na. Fully comp, business use, me and the wife, 60% ncd and unlimited miles (I do about 15k per year in the car) - £420ish. Ipswich. good luck Jack

Russ ...sell the 2+2tt, keep the swb, buy a na2+2. The na 2+2 will be as fast as the 200, won't keep breaking down, will do 30mpg, people will think it's a tt and you'll still have one of the best looking cars on the road instead of the anonimity of a 200. And fix the swb so that you can carry on eating everything in sight. good luck Jack

I'm still trying to sort this ground loop - radio/CD has a backgroung noise related to engine speed. I got a few responses a couple of weeks ago, mainly to do with adding an extra earth. Having done this - and checking the existing earth, I'm afraid that the noise is still there. Anyone got any other ideas? There's no black box behind the radio/CD, and the noise has only recently happened. Could it be wiring to the aerial? - noise is always there wether I'm listeming to the radio or CDs... Any thoughts welcomed - might have to ditch the whole thing cos being an na owner, I'm with Nelson re mass. thanks Jack

I once added the Australian equivalent (ptfe?) of Slick 50 - because it was cheaper - to an old Saab 900 Turbo immediately after an oil change. And while the engine was idling - over a 5 minute period - the engine revs went up noticeably. Therefore I concluded that the stuff works. And when I got my naZ 2 and a half years ago I did the same, but the revs stayed as they were. No conclusion to this apart from I think it's worth it cos if it does make a difference then that's great, and if it doesn't, we'll it's not a lot of money to chance. A relative of mine who used to sell oil says Slick 50 is the same addative that's already in oil to give it it's lubrication qualities, just not 'watered-down' by an oil carrier. I've tried the gearbox equivalent (on same 900 Turbo) with no noticeable improvement, but the gearbox (manual) was already noisy. good luck Jack

Stu ...should have also mentioned that I had to replace my waterpump recently. It was leaking about half a rad per week. You could see the water on the engine underguard - below all of the belts. It went big time in France in the summer, but we still managed to limp home topping it up everytime we stopped. So if the water looks like it's coming from the bottom front of the engine, my money is on the seals within the waterpump. It a job and a half - almost like replacing the timing belt - in fact if you are that far down I'd replace it too if it's not new. Pump cost about £54 from MJP. good luck Jack