kkydd

okay tried to use a clamp (which I think will work) on it but the nut seems to jam up, can I just check is the thread m10 x 1.25 pitch??????

hmmm don't have an air tool unfortunately, could try the lube but I don't know if it would work as the spin so easily.

Guys, need serious help here, have just finished pressing in 2 new ball joints as the old one were knackered and now I can get the track rod back on because the ball joint keeps turning when I go to tighten the nut, any ideas???? Thanks in advance.

Can you explain this please?

I tend to either cut them off (grinder / dremel) or heat them up and get a breaker on it and end up snaping / shearing them and drilling them out anyway.

I have installed a rocker switch in the blank position beside the wing mirror folding switch, looks really good as it keep a standard look about things.

okay cheers, will go off and buy any old switch then for the rear fog.

Can anyone post a photo of a UK spec zeds rear fog light switch and its part number as I want to install one in my jap spec zed. Thanks.

if it is just a repair then normally most glass places do it for free on fully comp insurance and it won't affect your premium, if it is needing replaced then cough the £50 to the insurance as it will set you back £1000+ to get a new windscreen and get it fitted. I know I had one done 2 months ago.

mines a Jap and it definitely has 13mm on the elbows.

okay finally got them done :D :D damn rain kept driving me back inside. This is alot easier if you remove the master cylinder, it took me ten minutes to undo the bolts on the top and five of them were grinding off the bolt holding the heat shield on as it had rounded off. Ended up snapping the passenger o2 sensor as well so I have just plugged it with a blank while I get a new one from Nissan.

Right I removed the master cylinder last night and it is so much better as it gives you loads of room to work. This is the prefered option for me now, as it gives me the excuse of changing the brake fluid at the same time. Oh the O2 sensors are a right bitch the drivers one slackened, but the passenger one on mine is solid, going to take it to a workshop and get them to remove it.

right still can't get at them with the wobble socket. goint to try one last time and if this doesn't work I am going to be pissed

Think the easiest think is to rip the master cylinder out that should give me the room to get to them. oh well will just have to drain the brake fluid and re-bled the brakes.

how did you get to the top to bolts on the drivers side as the steering rack is in the way when attacking from the bottom and the master cylinder is in the way when attacking from the top.

Right I bought the decat kit from 2fast2cool, very impressed with the quality. On the other hand I am not impressed with Nissan and there shity positioning of bolts on the elbows. Have managed to to do the passenger side, apart from the little heat shield bolt which has rounded (waiting for the wife to come home so I can to B&Q for more dremel bits) How the hell do I do the top 2 bolts on the drivers side while the car is on axle stands? was going to leave them but since all six of the studs that hold the cats on decided to shear I am kind of comitted. Also I really need the car for Thursday as I have 2 Job Interviews. Anyone done this without dropping the transmission or ripping the engine out, please help me.

I am going to build a heat shield for mine as it get fooking hot on long drives, will take some pics when I am finished. Oh and cold knobs are not fun I once had a car that had a stainless knob which during early morning winter driving was so cold my hand used to stick to it. Not the easiest thing to explain LOL

Opinions on the above system as it is now in Stainless.

Thanks for the tip but since the pipe behind the back box is not stainless I will give it a miss as I live in the north the exhaust will be rotten after the first winter. Last question which is bett the x or h pipe? Thanks

I take it the full system is stainless and not aluminiumise steel? I saw somewhere selling them as well.

Si what exhaust is that you have in your sig? Also anyone got any pics of the apexi N1 system fitted.

Friday you have email. anyone rate the borla exhausts? never heard of them myself.

I have had a powerflow in the past and it was not the best and corroded quite badly (poor workmanship). I really need a pre-build exhaust as I am away at the moment and I won't have time to go to a custom builder.

Guys need some help, I am looking for a s/s exhaust for my LWB TT zed, I need the exhaust to sitting at my house in 2 weeks time as it needs to be done before the MOT. I have looked high and low but keeping finding the mongoose which I don't like. I am also thinking of have a single exit. i.e. 2 pipes in to 1. but don't know if this causes any restrictions as I was planing 3" back from the merge point and 2.5" elbows and decats. Anyone know where I can get one quickly and most importantly not going to break the bank (have other goodies i want to buy)

Will check as soon as I get home in 2 weeks time