Geoff

I went for A-Pillar gauges as well, although only 2 (Boost & EGT - Exhaust Gas Temp). Like Mac1, I think, the A-Pillar came from Smithy/Cybercraft and is a very good product. I think you should email Smithy direct, as Cybercraft is closing, if you decide on this. The choice of Gauges is an interesting one, because of the wide range. As well as the characteristics above, there are a couple more which maybe important to you. 52mm or 60mm diameter, and the colouring. I went for the 52mm Greddy, prefering the slightly smaller sizing and the Greddy meters are a close match to the original Nissan facings - so hopefully they are less conspicuous and match the standard decor much more. Unfortunately they come at a higher cost, but I can recommend Tim at SVS, who is the UK Greddy agent. They are electronic. Your search may have seen an alternative solution? Which is the use of an aftermarket Audi DIN panel to hold 3 x 52mm meters and goes into the empty pocket under the radio (or the other way round). I don't think it is a straight fit, and will need a bit of cutting, gluing and bending? Also Stillen produce an add-on cowling over the vents to hold gauges. Hope this helps, and welcome!!! Geoff

There were 11 people hanging onto a rope attached to a helicopter, ten men and one woman. They all decided that one person should let go because if someone didn't, the rope would break and everyone would die. No one could decide who should go, so finally the woman gave a very touching speech stating that she would give up her life to save the others because women were used to giving up things for their husbands, and children, and giving in to men in general. When she finished speaking, all the men started clapping....... !!! Never underestimate the power of a Woman. !!!

Hi Scott, I'm not an expert, but is your car fitted with HICAS - the 4 wheel steering system? Have you had checked, for any play in the rear steering arms? You may like to browse the Interactive Manual under the FAQ link (top of screen) - around page RA-32/33, etc.... (Rear Axle & Suspension). It is quite normal for the ball joints to have warn with age/milage and need replacing. They do greatly affect the handling and feel from the back of the car. Good luck, Geoff

Thanks Tony. I was looking into that today, as they are available (some question as to whether they are show only type). The front can be mounted vertically, with a slight curve up and across. For your information, it is the same bumper as your Avatar. The back looks clear cut with a standard UK plate. I don't know whether to have the additional EU-GB symbol on the left side. Not sure if this is allowed just on the rear (normally appears front & back), but I may just go for plain. Tooley, I will bear your suggestion in mind if I go for a standard front. Thanks. If anybody else has any suggestions I will be pleased to hear them. [bye the way, the car looked superb today with all the bodywork/spray side now finished. I particularly like the way the mesh has been fitted to all the apertures. I have taken some (old style) photos, and will post a pic once developed. Even though I still have the standard rims, the car has jelled. It is the first time I have heard the engine running with the new exhaust - the note reminded me of the RR Merlin (for those that are in the know). Can't wait!]. Thanks, Geoff

I would like some advice on fixing the Number Plates onto my Paul Bailey Front & Rear bumpers. Are there holders available? It is the front one that I am particularly interested in. Is there a moulding available that has the shape of the bumper on one side and the flat mounting for the number/registration plate. I am not so worried about the back as this is a flat surfice. I see there are ones advertised for the MX5/Eunos front, but do not know if they can be adapted. Appreciate your help and advice. Thanks, Geoff

The online manual (see FAQ), section MA 10 & 11 maintenance data. See http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/ma/010.gif and http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/ma/011.gif

I have changed the UCC twinturbo.de imagined in photo to a link, in my original post above. I hope I did not offend anybody on twinturbo.de, as a warning message started to appear? Apologies if I did, it was not intentional.

Just looked at the picture I linked in (Skyline rear lights) again, and is that a rear fog light lurking in the Strosek rear bumper wing?

Strosek ZX300 with "Skyline Bremsen" (R33). I like the reversing light solution. Please see this link: http://www.twinturbo.de/mig/zdriver/Reinhard%20H.%20%2894%20TT%29/PIC00046.JPG At first I liked the look of the Lexus GS300 on the photo above. More laterly, I am not so sure? Geoff

Zackary, You may be interested in this old thread which may help. Looks as though you may be better looking to Germany, but the PB vehicle is special and at the price comparible to the one you quote for Spain (& it is a rare US 2-seater Slick-top - LHD). http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11620 Hope this helps. Geoff

See this old post. The info was taken from the Nissan site for the 1999 model. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7935 Geoff

More info......... http://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/detail?sectionID=212131&documentID=160675 A limited production run............

If you drill down on this link you will see the installation guides, etc... (PDF Acrobat files): http://www.hksusa.com/categories/?id=1091 Geoff

Found a picture of the Paul Bailey/Strosek nose with standard sills, I think? Perhaps not as pronouced as I first thought? http://www.paulbailey.com/3.jpg A number of guys have had 99 OEM front bumpers fitted, and I am sure they will help on where best to get this bumper. I believe it is flexible and an advantage if speed humps are a problem. Cheers, Geoff

The front bumper needs the area behind the front wheel arch built out (e.g. front edge of skirt), to bring the line back into the car (sill), and this is needed in my opinion. I think this link shows how far the bumper edge at the wheel arch sticks out, and you can see how the skirt brings the line back in. You should be able to imagine how far back the original line of the Z really is. http://www.paulbailey.com/largepics/300_otse1.jpg Geoff

The online manual shows the unit "for Europe". Interestingly my import also had one. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/manual/el/113.gif

It may be just terminology, but I thought I would comment just in case. The Clarion is an amp and amplifies the line signals to the original rear speakers as a matched item. If the rear speakers are replaced by aftermarket speakers, then it should be removed from the circuit - aftermarket speakers would not be matched, etc.... (Mine is just disconnected and still sitting there, but both power and line in/out disconnected). Sorry, I am not very knowledgable about this area, other than passing on the advice of do not use it! I understand a pre-amp to be something else, and I would hate to see anybody trying to use this thing and causing damage.do not use it! Geoff

Have a great time everybody. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year! Thanks to everybody for their help, advice, and fun through the year. Special thanks to Craig and others for making it possible. Geoff

I was lucky enough to have a (family) Sierra Cosworth for 3.5 years from new - the original one (whale fin - showing my age) and pulling in for petrol around 1990/1 and noticing a new UK 300zx at the next pump, and thinking mmmmmm nice. My job took my to Calif and I rode in a couple of US Z-coupes, and decided, perhaps, one day........ The import of a domestic Japanese model made it practical, and here I was owning this icon - however then I discovered Strosek and Paul Bailey styling. So I love the original, and will defend it against all comers, but I love the challenge of a "project" and turning it into something better (personal view). My ideal would be one stock and one modied, however reality/wife comes into play!!! (But I have my motorbikes - perhaps one day a 2+2, 2+0 and a convertable [TT] as well?). - A ramble - apologies, it was our Xmas do tonight..........

Conrad, I have a manual TT, and not experienced the Auto. However if I was looking now for a TT, I would not dismiss an Auto for performance. And I will try and explain why:- Conceptually all Auto transmissions have a performance loss against the equivilant Manual, and this would be true if Nissan had not taken advantage of the Twin Turbos. The TT Auto is fitted with smaller Turbos than the Manual, which increases the torque and speed of delivery. Because of this, I don't believe there is much difference between the two, until you get into the higher extremes where few of us ever go. In real terms the TT Auto is able to use different turbos to give comparable performance to the TT Manual, ........and with the NA Auto not having this benefit to offset the difference, you would have felt that the NA Auto lagged behind the NA manual, I feel. Whatever you choose, get a good one. Geoff

Could it be that we have all been fooled by this car? Is it possible that this is an early prototype to the current Corsa model - the 3 cylinder one, hence the 3 exhausts, and the angle of the exhausts and opening is govern by the angle the engine is canted over for a decreased front bonnet line? Both ground breaking advances. If this is the case, its value to motoring history is greater than any of our Zs. Any motoring historians out there? :) :) :) :)

Thanks Gio. A fun thread. Geoff

Am I the only person who had not heard of this term before, (and I have to confess I work in IT)? I found the following definitions on the BBC WebWise site: Avatar "avatar" DEFINITION An avatar is an image which you can use to represent yourself in 3D or virtual reality areas such as when using VRML. VRML [Derived from Virtual Reality Modelling Language] DEFINITION VRML is the language used to build a three dimensional space in which the user can move around in the virtual reality world. I do remember a HiTech company called Digital Animation that looked very promising coming to the stock market a couple of years ago, and I believe they pioneered the technology and term? A piece of useless information, or a "not alot of people know that" piece of information? Geoff :)

An old chestnut, and you can use the Search facility to find plenty of views on this. In theory the difference could be the same as with any other car, however the Autos have smaller Turbos as standard to offset any acceleration impact. So I suspect any differences are very marginal, unless you wish to exploit the car beyond where most would go. IMHO, just get a good one, which has a spec to your own preference. (To complete the picture, there is a convertible NA as well). Cheers, Geoff

A bit of information that my be of interest: 2+0: http://www.300zx.co.uk/rides/geoff/2men1.gif 2+2 http://www.300zx.co.uk/rides/geoff/2menzu.gif Max weights taken for 1999 top spec models (kgs). 2+0 - manual NA 1550 TT 1630 2+2 – manual / auto NA 1710 / 1740 TT 1780 / 1810 I have a 2 seater TT manual. Theoretically faster (lighter), while the 2+2 is more stable (long wheelbase). The rear boot is deeper on a 2+0, although not as long as the shallower 2+2 (but you can always use the rear seats). Some like the shorter "Coupe" look, while others the longer and sleeker 2+2. They are both great cars and the important thing is to find a good one. Cheers, Geoff