icu812

What time, Eileen?

Ian, a strut brace won't stop chassis flex, I afraid the only way to cure it would be a full, suspension mount to suspension mount roll cage, or weld a roof back on LOL. Chassis flex is the "nature of the beast" with a convertible I'm afraid.

Add to that the fact that 300zx has wishbone suspension, so the "strut towers " are only a mounting point for the shock. So any flex there won't affect the wheel geometry. Strut braces, in my opinion are only really affective with cars fitted with McPherson struts, where any movement of the top mount will affect the steering geometry. Had a look in the manual and there's already a tie-bar between the two upper suspension mounts on the rear sub-frame.

Ian, Have you got a speedo converter chip fitted? Does your speedo needle jump when you start the engine? Mine started doing the same thing after I fitted an E-bay chip in mine. I'm hoping replacing the chip will corect the problem. Keith

You can get Z bit from these people while your in belgium too http://www.avb-sports.be/nissan/300zx/1990-1996/bodycomponents/ Once you get use to it driving on the wrong side of the road won't be a problem

Sky do quote well, mines agreed value of £6500, and for £450. I went with Sky because I heard that some insurance companies don't pay out the full amount on agreed value and had to be fought hard to get more than market value. Where as I had 2 friends, who had there FTO's written off and Sky gave them the full pay-out with no fuss or hassle. Keith

Mate is your inbox full, sent P.M to you

Three wire is the one your after, like these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BN-Universal-3-Wire-Zirconia-Oxygen-Lambda-Sensor_W0QQitemZ120109064665QQihZ002QQcategoryZ72205QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Would you be better off buying the OEM ones?. In my experience, having run e-bay O2 sensor before, they will do exactly the same job. In my opinion with Oem you pay £100+ for the wire and the plug. Keith

Hi Ian, Its easier to just re-wire the door speakers, mate. The speakers won't work if you just un-plug the amp. You'll get better sound quality with a re-wire as well. The manual links above won't help with the 'vert, PM me with you e-mail address and I'll send you a PDF file with the correct manual. Keith

Are we meeting at the curry place a 5.30 or somewhere else? Keith

That's not quite true a lot of 70's & 80's cars are appreciating. Most have had a good following over the years and some are FORD's. Too name two:- Capri 280, 10 years ago (10 years after it went out of production) you could pick up a good one for £2-3K, try and find one a good one today it'll cost you 10K. Escort Mark1 the only two in the trader at the moment will set you back 10-15K. Even MK II's are now on the up. Why, because they have had a big following over the years, and are now featured prominently in Classic car mag's. Rather than trying to get cars in the Jap tunning mag, not really the place for classic cars in my opinion, the likes of Funky Si and other owners with good original 300ZX's should try and get them in the Classic car mags to raise the profile of the car. I've sent pic's and a description of mine to one of the classic mags, we will have to see if it appears. The Z32, seems to be the forgotten Japanese performance car, how often to you see one in any car mag? So rather than having a moan about the low prices, how about taking a more active role in raising the profile of the car. Members with good modified cars should send pic's and descriptions of their cars to the tuning mags, not Max Power :rofl: , the one's with good original examples do the same with the classic car mag's. Unfortunately, it's still possible to import poor quality ones in from Japan, when these dry up, and with a higher profile for 300zx's the price will probably start to rise. This is just my opinion, no doubt many of you will disagree Keith

Gaz, If they have been in for 2 years and are still "as new", the answer is probably none . I think you would only get a problem if it's the other way round,i.e N/A plugs in a turbo engine. Due to the higher combustion temp the tip of the spark plug would burn away. Keith

1) Lets Drift 2) Wozzer 3) Hellraiser (and i love curry !!!) 4) Madmarco 5) Scotty + Jo-Jo 6) icu812

Nick, The date of manufacture" and "date of first registration" mean the same thing in our case. Its why when buy an import the registration mark is, K or L for a '93 import, not 03 or 53, if imported into the UK in 2003. I hope this make sense. I think import V5's say "date of first registration in the UK" as well as "date of manufacture".

No. It only effects that were new cars first registered after March '01, that are taxed by CO2 bands, not engine size. All 300zx's were first registered NEW before March '01,

I think your Ok, its New cars First registered after march 2001, your import will have a date of first reg in Japan, thats the date that sets it's tax band

Nick, what are you driving, cause I haven't seen any ZX's in the area? Keith

Blue convertible heading east bound at the Basingstoke junction @ 4pm I was heading the opposite way.

Just had a great waste of time trying to find out whats legally required to convert mileometer from kilometers to miles. Dvla, passed me onto their technical dept, Their basic advice was changing the mileometer in any way could been seen as clocking, and they advice not to touch it to keep it accurate. I explained that I wanted to fit a conversion chip that would start the mileometer clocking in miles, so it would not be accurate anymore, because part of the reading would be in kilometers and the other in miles, this was meet with silence. The next suggestion was to change to UK clocks, I explained that that was not possible as the 300ZX convertible uses different clocks to the other cars in the range. Again meet with silence. So, I asked if I make the change and use the calculation of multiplying kilometers by 0.621 ( the mathematical correct calculation) and back it up with photographic and a signed receipt explaining what had been done, with mileage in kilometers, the mathematical calculation, then the corrected mileage. Seemed a good idea to me. Answer the clocks would not be accurate using a mathematical conversation, but suggest I speak to a technician, then put the phone down :headvswal :headvswal :rant: So DVLA advice seem to be leave the mileometer alone then have no record of fitting a conversion chip and just tell any body you sell it to that the mileometer clocks in kilometers, if it gets mentioned deny all knowledge of the conversion chip. 'Cause the mileometer is accurate. :hyper: Ended up phoning a garage locally and asked them what they do. Answer Receipt the change and notify the Dvla of the change :bow: Bit of a long post, but way do some people make thing so difficult.

Yes, Gaz you still use the stock settings.

Gaz Give these people a try http://www.roadwheel.co.uk/ I've used their branch in Fleet, cost about £80 to have all 4 wheels aligned. Keith

Try here http://wireinserts.com/frames.htm or any good tool shop.

Its a DIY job rodders, it only a case of drilling out the old thread and tapping a new one to set the helicoil in. thread locking and setting the helicoil in. If your worried about doing it I'm sure for the price of a beer Gaz could do it for you, If he can, I will. A full helicoil kit would enable you to do all of them.

Port and polish can be just that, opening the ports and a gentle polish. Gas flowing is more involved, using a flow bench enables you to check and improve the flow and swirl, more swirl= better air-fuel mixing, better mixture= better combustion, which in turn will produce more horsepower. More material will be remove from the ports as you want to maximise air flow and mixture to give the maximum hp gain. If it was me, I'd ask for a three -angle valve seat cut too, to improve the flow into the combustion chamber. This used to be standard practise when flowing, but that was a while ago. Keith

Red is definitely the fastest colour to ....... oxidise white. :rofl: