baby ice dog

I have a SWB (only NA, though), and not had too much trouble. Some parts have to be imported, of course (remember to *warn* people it's a SWB when you order stuff!), which can be annoying - some bugger smashed my quarterlight when the doorhandle didn't give in to his pathetic scratchings, and the replacement took a few months to arrive. Other than that, it's just the impracticality of having *no* rear seats and a tiny boot. If you've got a second car already, this shouldn't be an issue, right?

Could it be the fusebox in the driver's side footwell? I had trouble finding that one when I had a similar muppet try to fit a stereo :S Look in the footwell, on the right hand side, and there should be a removable bit of panel, behind which are the fuses... they can be a bit fiddly to get to :( This is assuming you've checked the two obvious fuseboxes under the bonnet, of course :P

Woah! I don't have half of those things :S "Emission system warning light"? Is that what it is? Wow... I think a pdf'd manual would be useful given the number of J-specs around, and the number of basic questions new owners have to ask about what light/button does what. Good plan :)

Hmm, my J-spec came with it showing an orange CHECK engine light, and when Nico looked the car over it disappeared. I asked him about it and he said the ECU had been left in diag, and after he'd done a test he'd turned it back to normal. I did an ECU diag only today, and the orange light came on when I turned the screw, went off when I turned it back. Otherwise, I don't get it, all I get is a red engine light, red h/brake light, and that bloody LIGHTS light that I can't track down the cause of :S Maybe J-specs are different, or maybe it's just my car that's nutty :/

It might be worth mentioning to him as well that the orange warning light with CHECK written across it means the ECU has been left in diagnostic mode. Which has nothing to do with the starting problem, no... :S

Check the links for AndyP's site, where the tech info section has pics of the PTU. It's on the timing belt cover, a little box down on the driver's side, with a couple of fat wire bundles heading into it. And back to my problem: I've noticed my PTU is black, not silver Al, but it has a '92 date on it. I've also noticed it's crammed into a gap between fairly inflexible ducts, so I'm not confident about removing it without dropping something important into the bay. Well, the suggestion to harrass Luke about it is a good one - I've exchanged posts with him once or twice, and he seems like a nice chap. Plus if I'm going to need an exhaust, this would be mutually beneficial ;) As for the temp sensor: not got round to starting it up yet (was busy setting up this ISP and glueing skirting board), but I had a brief glance and noticed that the reason it was wobbly is that it's now missing that wire clip that should be holding the plastic bits together. Bugger, might be a factor, eh? And is there a simple way to clean the connectors, or do I just have to fold up some emery paper nice & tight to fit it in the tiny gap there is? Well, thx everyone for your help :) I'll let you know what it turns out to be - right now I'm thinking about how to test it without just going for a ride until it cuts out in an awkward place :P

OK, good info. Again, AndyP's site helps out and says there *is* an aux fan on the NA :) I'll check the connections, reply if I can get my home ISP to work. Kids want puter now, must leave. Thanks!

Hmm, it's about the size of a ten pence piece, right after the kink in the pipe, with (I think) a couple of much smaller holes just after it. My bodgy mate says it's weldable... but this is a guy who regularly kills cars or mends them til they're undriveable :S To me the whole pipe looks a bit crumbly & past it... I have sexy big SS backboxes, and the front half of the exhaust looks fine, it's just these short sections that look rough :( Anyway, RAC man said it's a problem with swan-necks - all the crud builds up at the kink, and one good pop will blow a hole out. I described the noises as "pops", but really they were a little more violent, just not enough to call a "bang", you know? As for searching... I should've checked AndyP's site sooner too, but it feels so rushed trying to internet in the library - you never know when you're going to get chucked off :S I'm glad you're focussing on the positive aspects of my post, rather than the negative aspects of my incompetence and tendency to waffle.... heh ;) Ah, james300: Thanks for the suggestion :) Is the temp sensor you're talking about the one right at the front of the engine, in the centre? With the cold start thingy next to it? I noticed the fit between the plastic bits was a bit wobblier than I would have expected, but when I pointed it out to RAC man he wasn't interested. Little fan? Not the big one? OK, I'll check it out. I know the temp gauge on the dashboard was acting normally, but that means nothing, right? Thanks all! :D Oh, and dammit, I keep forgetting to mention this is all on an NA, not a TT, just in case it makes a difference :S Heh, some of us can't afford *real* Zs :P

OK, now I've checked the most excellent AndyP tech info site, and seen where the PTU actually is. Immediately I recognise it as a spot RAC man pointed out for being a mess of wiring held on with strip-wire. Jeff did a timing belt change a few months back, so I figured it must've been moved about then... Anyway, so a good first plan is to check it's still the pre-93 PTU (i.e. an aluminium one?), take it completely off & clean the external connections to it? OK, I'll see how feasible that looks with my big fat hands. Thanks! What are the symptoms that make you think I might have multiple problems? The dodgy rain behaviour? I figured that was a separate issue as well, but possibly RAC man got locked into the idea it was ignition trouble, whether it be from arcing or heating up. I think he was talking about the "ignition crank sensor"..? I'll have to look that up too ;) Thanks again! b.

Ouch :( I'm having trouble with the Z: coming back from Manchester to Nottingham last week, it cuts out in traffic (maybe half an hour after setting off) and won't start for about 10mins. Starts, runs fine, drives about 200yds and cuts out again. I leave it for longer, start it up, run it round a side road to check it's not going to cut out again, and then head off on my way. Maybe 20mins later it does the same thing again, but on an open road. Again, I start it (after about 5mins), leave it to idle a while, and it just dies. This goes on a couple more times before I give up & call the RAC. By the time they get there, of course it starts fine, bloke can't find anything wrong with it, and suggests maybe it is something to do with the ignition. He says he'll follow me down the road for a couple of miles to check it doesn't happen again. It doesn't, so I pull over to tell him it seems sorted. Then it won't start again, and stays that way resolutely for the 20mins or so it takes a recovery vehicle to turn up & drag it to the nearest garage. Next day, when I turn up with a trailer, it's starting fine again. But I don't trust it to get me further than however long it takes to warm up (hence I'm not sure it will make it to Jeff's in one go). What happens when it cuts out? It just cuts out! If I put it back into gear to try and restart it on the roll, it runs, but there's NO power (I mean, the revs just keep dropping, though it's not kangerooing or anything). As soon as I take it out of gear, it stalls. While rolling to a halt in gear, it sometimes makes loud popping noises, and at some point it's blown a hole in the swan-neck of the exhaust. Searching through the forum, it sounds like it might be PTU trouble (I only did a quick search, because my home ISP is messed up, so I'm at the local library :S). RAC man said it sounded like an ignition problem, dodgy wiring that screws up when it gets warm. I know nothing :/ He also said it might be relevant that for the last week or two, it's been unhappy in rain - a little dampness & it runs rough, with loss of power at low revs (say up to about 2-2.5k rpm). Advice, anyone? Like I said, I'd like to take it up to Jeff's, but I'm not sure if I can trust it to get me there (about 45mins drive). Is there anyone local (by which I mean Nottingham) with diagnosis software, or confidence enough to do the ECU test thingy? Thanks for any suggestions (oh, and for advice on the best thing to do with the exhaust now - weld or replace? Stainless or no? How expensive will such a short section be?). b.

I'd think not having a working speedo is illegal, but I'm not sure... What I would say (and bear in mind I know nothing, but since there are no replies yet, I might as well have a shot) is that the dodgy speedo could be down to a bad kph/mph conversion or dodgy clocks, *or* it could be the speed sensor. Personally, I've got a intermittantly dodgy speed sensor, and it's either working fine, or completely off the scale... plus, sometimes the power steering goes heavy when it's acting up (since the PAS is variable with speed). If none of that sounds familiar (and if the ratio of displayed to actual speed is fairly constant), I'd guess (and remember I know nothing) the problem would be in your clocks (or the box of gubbins behind them). It shouldn't be a serious problem, but it needs sorting. Hopefully now, someone with some knowledge can come in and blow me out of the water ;) Well, at least maybe I've given you some ideas :D

Heh, I know nothing, so don't take me seriously. Plus mine's an NA, and I know even less than nothing about turbos :S Perhaps this is something turbos *do*... :confused: My point is that I don't think it should get sooty that quickly, and that it's a sign of non-optimal combustion, too much fuel, or something, surely...? But, Nelson, I know you know more than me ;) so I'm certainly happy to be corrected. I was just sticking my two-pennorth in before anyone else got to the topic, that's all :P hehe

Sounds like you're running rich (bear in mind I know nothing). My exhausts (stainless too) stay soot-free for much longer than a week... the only time they blacked up like that was when my fuel filter needed a good changing ;)

Hey, on the subject of dropped doors (vaguely): on the driver's side, the door rubber has started catching the edge of the quarterlight, making the door stick shut (and when it opens, it pulls the rubber with it). It's the bit of door-seal at the top, where there's kind of a block of rubber that sits tight against the glass. The quarterlight has a kind of edge down the front, and it's this which is catching the rubber & pulling it off. Very annoying... My question is: could this be the door dropping? There's zero play in the door if I try wiggling it around, and it doesn't seem to be sitting any lower than the other side. If it isn't that, it must be the quarterlight - it was replaced by Autoglass about a month & a half ago, but it's been fine until last weekend. I wanted to check about the door, just so I have my facts right before taking it back to A-glass. otherwise I know they're just going to tell me it's the car that's knackered, not their workmanship :S So, Z falling apart, or Autoglass messing up? The choice is yours...

*hugs Nico* Good to hear from you, mate :) The FF change went fine, even with my stupid monkey hands - thanks for the help with that :D Still have speed sensor issues, though, & could do with an air filter change :P Hope everything's good with you (like, er, work ;)), with any luck we'll be better synchronised for a chat next time at Sainsbo's, eh? Enjoy holiday ;)

Ah right! No HICAS on the car, but PAS of course... and it's reddish-brown, yes... Cool, I'm confident I'd notice any serious problem with lack of fluid then :) I'll have a go at tightening the clip & check the level properly :) The steering's not been acting up, but I guess it isn't healthy to have the stuff dribbling through the engine bay :S Thanks ever so much for the answers, guys :D

Right, what's the reservoir on the left (standing at the front looking into the engine bay) of the engine block, near the front? It's opaque, has a little dipstick in the cap, and appears to be full of oil - I'm confused because the engine oil dipstick is elsewhere, and looking at the online manual, the oil filler cap is on the engine block :S It grabbed my attention while I was messing with bulbs, because the hose leading down from it looks like it's experienced some leakage at the top - looks like it just needs the jubilee clip-esque thing tightening, but I always worry about *over* tightening, plus it's more scary looking than a plain jubilee clip :/ I checked the level in there, and it seemed fine, but that was with a cold engine. And it looked pretty dirty :( I'll shut up now... someone please tell me what this is, so I know which bit is likely to break next :S

Thanks for that info :) I'll start looking around for these super whites, then probably go for the Guardian ones when the £23 price tag is confirmed ;) Jeez, that's alot when you add on VAT.. I mean, J-specs usually seem to be about £20 a bulb (inc VAT), and I thought *that* was alot... phew. Anyway, thanks... going to search about for bargains now...

Dave, have you had to do anything else to deal with the higher power? I mean like changing relays, etc etc... I too would like to see where I am going :S Oh, if Leigh doesn't have any (I got my 55w ones from him - excellent price, fast delivery), another place to try might be ZCentre - I think they advertise J-spec bulbs on the website, but the price is roughly twice what they cost from Leigh.

Someone asked about JP bulbs not so long ago, so it might be worth searching for that thread... otherwise, get the ones from Halfords (H3s, is that right?) and solder an earth wire to the base of the bulb - this will replace the BLUE wire on your J-specs :) HTH

Yeah, sounds similar, except I've not had any trouble when stationary (although today is my first stalling)..... *but* that makes me wonder if it's worth mentioning: sometimes when I'm dribbling up to a junction (i.e. coasting slowly, no serious braking, either out of gear or with the clutch in), not fully warm yet, the revs drop (to what I'd expect a warm idle to be, nowhere near stalling, though). Once I've braked, and stopped completely, the revs jump back up to a high idle. It happens quite a bit, but I figured it was normal, and I'm used to it now. Maybe it *is* normal, I dunno.. But pulling up to a junction quickly and pressing the clutch before the revs have dropped, yes, that's exactly what I meant... I shall go have another forage in the online manual. Thanks :)

OK... I posted the above quickly before shooting off to AutoGlass to *finally* get my quarterlight fixed (over 12 weeks now :)), and while I was messing around there, I saw a washer filler cap under the boot lid (passenger side) - don't know if there are separate ones for the rear & front, or if it's different for SWBs (yes, I forgot to mention that, also that it's an NA... oops), but I'll check under the headlight too anyway, so thanks Mike :D james300, I don't think I was braking hard - first time I was coming up an off-ramp, and I don't think I'd started braking at all. Second time was shortly after, coasting down a small hill at work, and I might have been braking... but not hard. On the way to AutoGlass and back, I was pretty gentle with everything - kept it in gear & let the engine do most of the braking, only dipped the clutch when everything had slowed down - and there was no stalling. Upshot of this? Well, although I wasn't braking hard before, maybe it *was* a momentum thing - giving it some throttle, then coming off the gas & onto the clutch.. maybe that caused it :/ I'm going to keep an eye on this, experiment a little, I think... Oh, my quarterlight still isn't fixed - Nissan UK tried to get away with sending a UK spec window, when even AutoGlass knew it was a SWB :S Thx for the help, guys :)

Hmm... Firstly (and most stupidly), where on earth is the washer fluid reservoir? My untrained eyes can only see two reservoirs under the bonnet - one is the brakes, the other one's opaque, so I don't want to assume it's washer fluid. I tried following the pipes from the squirty things, but it got complicated & I was cold, so I gave up (do I sound pathetic yet?). I checked the online manual but it doesn't seem to deal with such mundane matters. And secondly, this morning the Z stalled twice on the 15min drive into work - both times when fully warmed up, A/C off, approaching a junction, clutch in... and both times it started first time, no problem. It's never done anything like this *at all*, yet today it's done it twice. My first thoughts were lambda sensor (but I know nothing - the car was running rich when I bought it four months ago, and I heard this can foul them), but this would make it hard to restart, right? SSRAE's post on beermonster's similar thread a few days back is now making me think TPS - where *is* the thing, and how would I go about cleaning & resetting it? Remember to make your advice so simple that even a monkey could follow it, please :) Jeez, with the "lights" warning light still shining bright, the washer fluid light flashing on and off, and the battery light coming on when it stalls, it's like a christmassy disco in there...

Or Leigh got a load in back in September, so he might have some left :)

Sweeeet looking silver 2+2, with twin-scooped front panel, parked across the central reservation of the ring road, on the section between the A52 roundabout & Rayleigh island, 10:15 this morning :) Looked for a driver as I trundled past, but couldn't see anyone :/ It's on my regular route to work, but I've not seen this Zed before... quite exciting, then :) But it put my stock red Zed to shame :'(