Toomanyzeds

They are both a piece of cake to change with the engine in the car, go for it!

I would say to try and diagnose what is actually at fault before ordering parts willy nilly, Nissan data scan & a cable is relatively in-expensive compared to the price of quality replacement Z parts You said you have a brand new MAF - you must have shelled out a lot of money for a new OEM MAF? The aftermarket pattern ones never work right so if you've put one of those on your better swapping to a used genuine Nissan unit.

I would recommend making sure your fuel pressure is 3 bar as it should be, takes 2 mins. buy an 8mm fuel line adapter with gauge for 20 quid from eBay, then add that into the fuel line just after the filter. If OK then remove plenum. Pull the fuel rail out but leave the injectors in place, hook the rail back up to the fuel lines and put the connectors on without the clips, then place some blue roll down somewhere in the engine bay and remove the CAS and turn it by hand, this way you can see the pattern left by each injector, you want all 6 marks to look the same. It will be immediately obvious which injector is causing the issue. If you had an injector stuck open, be sure to change the oil once the injector is fixed The injector plugs often have green corrosion whilst they are unplugged it may be worth cleaning them with a set of diamond tipped tweezers, you can get a set from eBay for £15 . laser tools part no 6546

Dinitrol 4941 for the under body, ML cavity wax for inside the car and in box sections Get the stuff that's applied with a schultz gun + compressor rather than the spray on cans, the aerosols are rubbish As Joely mentioned good prep is key

I wouldn't make a habit of posting pictures of your key online I would be able to copy it & use it on your car with very little effort, of course I wouldn't want to do that.. but someone with bad intentions might

I use a steel 1 piece with no NVH issues. Its the aluminium ones that sometimes make noise, clocking it sometimes helps though.. Copied this text below from czp "Note: ALL aluminum driveshafts will exhibit a metallic resonating noise that the original 2pc steel driveshaft naturally dampens. This is normal and will not affect performance, but if you are concerned about cabin noise, you may prefer a Steel Driveshaft, which still provides significant weight savings over the OEM driveshaft, but is going to run quieter than aluminum. Inland Empire now also offers a foam filling option for aluminum driveshafts, which significantly reduces noise and resonance without adding any noticeable weight. This is the best weight to enjoy buttery smooth operation while still getting the weight savings of an aluminum driveshaft. £250 plus postage for an aluminium lwb tt shaft

I have a few i would part with, What spec do you require? NA/TT - LWB/SWB - Auto/Manual? Theres no real upgrade to changing to a 1 piece other than the fact you won't ever need to change the bearing again. The two piece units are usually quieter. I sell new propshaft bearings for £75 posted if you need one

I have these, can post. send me a pm

Not to hijack this sale but if lees not able to sort you out a series 1 clock then get in contact i have lots of them in stock & i also offer a repair service for your broken unit via ebay.

That works for me Im up for a premium membership if you can arrange that aswell!

Im unable to send you any private message as I'm not a premium member, I'm in horley Surrey RH6

Surrey, i can arrange a pallet collection for the seats & put this on with them

Ill buy them

I will buy it How do i pay?

Check your timing