ABOUT TO DROP EXHAST AND PROP. any handy hints on what or not what to do, im droping because of engine out

yep, wd40 all the bolts and let them soak, will be easier than if they shear off ;)

Make sure you mark the prop shaft joints before you take it apart as you'll want it to go back together in EXACTLY the same place! No need to touch the diff end either, just the gearbox and centre bearing

Still trying to grind of two remaining bolts that wont budge of the exhaust manifold 1 50 in afternoon

At last the last two bolts i had to grind the barstuards off its now 3 20 its taken me nearly 3 hours to get the blood y exhaust off,oh well at least now i can see the propshaft.Right the cars on ramps and axle stands and choked up and i have spare wheels underneith at back just in case dont fancy being flatened and car is in secound gear and the handbreak has never been on so tight.

Am i wright in saying undo the four bolts holding the middle of the prop together then the two witch hold the centre bearing thing and then that should drop down to give me enough space to pull out of gearbox or just leave it there and tie it of with steel cable ties?

I just undid the allen key bolts near the diff x 6 and the prop just pulls from back of gearbox, came of in one piece and laid on the ground. Then plug the rear of the box, i used a rubber glove and elastic band, kept fluid from pouring over the drive.

I just undid the allen key bolts near the diff x 6 and the prop just pulls from back of gearbox, came of in one piece and laid on the ground. Then plug the rear of the box, i used a rubber glove and elastic band, kept fluid from pouring over the drive.

 

Yep I think tis is th easiest way. + I damaged the Center bearing housing on one of my SWBs doing it with the prop attached to the diff. Just the weight of the prop itself dropping on the deck while fannying about to get a proper hold of the box when trying to line the output shaft splines.

Yep I think tis is th easiest way. + I damaged the Center bearing housing on one of my SWBs doing it with the prop attached to the diff. Just the weight of the prop itself dropping on the deck while fannying about to get a proper hold of the box when trying to line the output shaft splines.

 

Did you undo the centre two bolts or leaver them in then undo the six back one and pull oh did it go back in easy because im doing this myself no extra hands , cheers

Did you undo the centre two bolts or leaver them in then undo the six back one and pull oh did it go back in easy because im doing this myself no extra hands , cheers

 

You'll need to undo the centre two bolts holding the bearing carrier to the chassis either way, wether you split the middle or undo it from the diff. Dont lose the two big spacer washers that are on the bolts. Pay attention to which side of the carrier they go, as its quite common for people to fit them back in the wrong place which leaves the prop out of alignment.

 

Personally I always split the middle, and leave the rear part attached to the diff. If you split the middle, mark the prop with something like Tipex, so you know whcih way it joins.

Edited October 13, 200817 yr by Yowser

Legrath your like having my own on line mechanic cheers again bud

You'll need to undo the centre two bolts holding the bearing carrier to the chassis either way, wether you split the middle or undo it from the diff. Dont lose the two big spacer washers that are on the bolts. Pay attention to which side of the carrier they go, as its quite common for people to fit them back in the wrong place which leaves the prop out of alignment.

 

Personally I always split the middle, and leave the rear part attached to the diff. If you split the middle, mark the prop with something like Tipex, so you know whcih way it joins.

 

oh i forgot will it come right out off the gear box

oh i forgot will it come right out off the gear box

 

Yep, just pull and it slides out the back.

just thought, your removing engine...do you need gearbox out for a reason too ? If not, there is no need to remove gearbox, and no reason to remove prop.

Rather than plugging the gearbox is it not worth changing the oil in it?

 

I changed mine first time, second time a just drained it and put it back again after inspection.

so next then after prop and gearbox oh and do i need to do anything in the car when doing the box, you know what i think buy the end of this week a couple hours here and there i will have pulled my first engine and a 300 cool

just thought, your removing engine...do you need gearbox out for a reason too ? If not, there is no need to remove gearbox, and no reason to remove prop.

i need to remove the engine because of the tubs need replacing . so far ive done everything ontop all the wiring and plumbing out and the aircon has gonstill yet to drop yhe prop and split from gear box are you saying i dont need to do prop but still need to split the gearbox?

Yeh, thats correct. No need to remove gearbox, so prop can stay on. You just need to unbolt the 10 or so Bolts around the bellhousing

 

Auto or Manual ?

Rather than plugging the gearbox is it not worth changing the oil in it?

 

I changed mine first time, second time a just drained it and put it back again after inspection.

 

i will change all the fluids incl diff

no need to remove prop yipee something else that cant go wrong if i dont touch it, oh its one of the few uk lwb manual

And Legrath i keep meaning to ask wheres your front bumper

And Legrath i keep meaning to ask wheres your front bumper

 

Its fitted now, but not sprayed yet. Car was bought as a bare rolling shell, which Im rebuilding. Nearly there.

 

Yeh, thats correct. No need to remove gearbox, so prop can stay on. You just need to unbolt the 10 or so Bolts around the bellhousing

 

Auto or Manual ?

its a manule

front subframe do i need to suport it or let it drop

front subframe do i need to suport it or let it drop

 

Dropping the subframe allows easier access to the top gearbox bellhousing bolts from underneath.

 

You dont need to drop it completely though. There are 4 bolts, 2 either side. Just undo them enough so that the subframe drops but leave the nuts on the bolt, so the subframe is still supported.

its a manule

 

ok, Manual easier than Auto. Auto is a PITA as you got to undo the Torque convertor bolts first.

ill have a pop at this later cheers bud