Hi, having problems lol :)

 

Fitted a Greddy Profec II as per spec, unattached the 6mm hoses, looped and tee'd into the valve. I'm assuming I was right in attaching to the common port and the NO side of the valve? I've took the pressure from where it's been stated in the boost controller help on here and detached the stock boost plugs

 

I'm having a problem that i am only getting wastegate spring pressure i.e. 0.5 bar, not matter what i do to the controller.

 

Does anyone know a way i could test the valve to make sure that's responding properly? the electrical feed to it has continuity and the controller seems to work fine.

 

Anyone else with ideas what it could i would be very grateful!!

It pulls well so doesn't seem to be mechanical, just not was quick as it should be!

 

p.s. all ecu codes ect have been sorted and car has been checked over recently.

bump

have you dissconnected left and right solenoid connectors ???

have you dissconnected left and right solenoid connectors ???

 

Yeah, with those on it holds a just above 0.6 bar

did you block off the NC port, i think the port you dont use has to stay open, but i could be wrong

did you block off the NC port, i think the port you dont use has to stay open, but i could be wrong

 

Maybe?

 

I would of thought they wouldn't of made any difference but i have left in the plastic plug that it is packaged with, i'm stuck so will give it a try!!

I have that boost controller fitted to a differnt car...you take the blanking plug out of the solenoid..leave it open.

That might help as i believe i left mine in also when i 1st fitted it and had a similar problem with boost.

I have that boost controller fitted to a differnt car...you take the blanking plug out of the solenoid..leave it open.

That might help as i believe i left mine in also when i 1st fitted it and had a similar problem with boost.

 

Ok, i'm going to try this - if anyones brave enough to explain why you need to remove the other plug, i'm all ears because its got me baffled!!

I'll give it a go, but this is only an educated guess so if someone knows for sure then feel xfree to blow my idea out of the water.

 

I've seen lots of posts taking about the wastegate actuators working on a vacuum system. This is not strictly true as they work on the pressure generated by the compressor on the turbo. The compressor outlet is connected to one side of a spring loaded diaphragm inside the actuator. The spring tension is set so the diaphragm starts to move when the compressor outlet hits 7 psi which in turn opens the wastegate which stops the compressor outlet from going any higher. This is obviously the safety boost mode.

 

In the stock system there's another pipe going from the pressure side of the actuator, through a solenoid with a restricted opening and back to the compressor intake. When the ECU decides all is well it opens the solenoid which means some of the pressure on the diaphragm is bleed back to the compressor inlet. This means that a higher pressure is needed at the compressor outlet to move the diaphragm as some of the pressures being bled away. This is extended boost.

 

The boost controller is plumbed in so the stock solenoids removed from the system and the boost controller solenoid is inserted on the line between the compressor outlet and the wastegate diaphragm. This solenoid has a common, normally open and normally closed ports. The compressor outlet goes on the NO and the actuator ok the common. This means that until the solenoid is activated the turbos are in safety boost as there is pressure in the line going to the actuator. When the boost controller wants to increase boost it energises the solenoid and that means the COM and NC ports are connected. With no plug in the NC port the pressure on the actuator diaphragm drops and the wastegate closes, increasing the boost. With the NC port plugged the pressure can't bleed off and the wastegate stays open so then boost can't increase.

 

Sound plausible?

 

Dave