I did a driving day in my zed on Friday - I will post some vids of it once I get hold of them off my mate. In the meantime, I need some help with a couple of things :confused:

 

1) I'm pretty sure my clutch has had it. It seems most noticeable in 4th gear. If I plant my foot, the revs climb nicely, but the speed doesn't really pick up at all. I can still pull away in 1st ok, but it's getting more and more smelly.

 

What's going to be involved in getting the clutch replaced (work and rough cost) and have people got advice on what to go for?

 

2) I noticed my zed has started smoking, but only out of the left exhaust. This seems to only really be on pulling away and a little bit on hard acceleration, but nothing like the cloud that appears when I start off. It got worse as the day went on :cry:

 

I've posted a video on youtube of it if it helps...

[YOUTUBE]MBSzsCcNPOk[/YOUTUBE]

Sounds like you've got a clutch slipping, raising revs with no speed increase sounds about right! you'll get it slipping dramatically under boost shortly.

 

You'd be best to change the clutch now save any damage to the flywheel that might occur if the friction plate gets down to the rivets otherwise you'll have to fork out for one of those as well.

 

If your handy with the tools and could do it yourself, about £200-300 for a new thurst bearing, friction plate and housing, while the box is out would get the main rear seal replaced at the same time - make sure you do it as its a pain in the arse for it to go and have to get the box off again! A garage would charge around £500 for a Heavy duty organic plate one, which would do the job on standard internals and turbos and another £40-50 for the main seal.

 

From the video that looks like blue smoke?? Left (passenger side) turbo is the more common one to go first. It's normally the seal on the exhaust side of that goes, unfortunatley not really any shortcuts, most garages will be an engine out jobby. People tend to replace both turbos at the same time, new oem's are around £600-700 from the states, there's a few companies that will recon yours for you for around £300-400, as long as the casing is good. Labour costs are anyone guess, maybe a days work or so!?

 

Have you recently had decats or turned up the boost? often the seals let go if this is done on old turbos.

Thanks for the help. I haven't had decats, or played with the boost. Looks like it's just age and wear and tear and I need to start saving some serious wonga. :headvswal

 

Also begs the question: what else should I get done while the engine's out???

clutch slip could be that the freeplay has got a tad low or gone altogether if the pedal needs adjusting...its a small pin and locking nut high up on the pedal arm...bugger to get to :( but cheaper than a whole new clutch :)

clutch slip could be that the freeplay has got a tad low or gone altogether if the pedal needs adjusting...its a small pin and locking nut high up on the pedal arm...bugger to get to :( but cheaper than a whole new clutch :)

 

Yep, could try this, have a look over on 300zx.org.uk, it adjusts the pressure applied by the clutch booster on the master cylinder, its not a permenant fix as the clutch will need replacing at some point but it will help you in the meantime. It's an arse of a job lol, you'll be upside down with a torch swearing for an age :mac1:

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/clutchadjustment.html

Thanks for the help. I haven't had decats, or played with the boost. Looks like it's just age and wear and tear and I need to start saving some serious wonga. :headvswal

 

Also begs the question: what else should I get done while the engine's out???

 

If your going to keep the car in the long term and got the cash, a great point to do a full overhaul :D

 

Best to do a good condition assessment of the car first,see where your at: compression test, spark plugs check, consult etc.

 

otherwise:

- PCV valves

- real main seal

- Water pump

- Cambelt + ancillaries

- pulleys changed

- Any piping thats started to crack, split

- things like bypasses on the waterhoses on the back to prevent against future leaks etc.

 

Can't think of anything else off the top of my head.

 

If you have new or recon turbos, would be a good time to put decats on!

 

HTH matey!

If your going to keep the car in the long term and got the cash, a great point to do a full overhaul :D

 

Best to do a good condition assessment of the car first,see where your at: compression test, spark plugs check, consult etc.

 

otherwise:

- PCV valves

- real main seal

- Water pump

- Cambelt + ancillaries

- pulleys changed

- Any piping thats started to crack, split

- things like bypasses on the waterhoses on the back to prevent against future leaks etc.

 

Can't think of anything else off the top of my head.

 

If you have new or recon turbos, would be a good time to put decats on!

 

HTH matey!

 

also egr removal while the box is out. tight but possible

also egr removal while the box is out. tight but possible

 

Yep, and the master clyinder and slave could be checked and reconned

Thanks guys, it's appreciated. I really need to think this one over now.