As above is there anything I can adjust to stop my clutch slipping? It is fairly new so dont understand why its slipping already....it is a stage 2 XTD Clutch and new lightened fly-wheel. It generally does it in 5th when I am driving it, but when Dave drives it hard it slips in 3rd, 4th n 5th i think and stinks.... Is it just a case of a crap clutch or what? when first installed it was stinking and slipping a bit then settled down after 500 miles or so now slipping again, shall i change it again or anything I can try to adjust?:(

Have you got the so called uprated thrust bearing that the comes with the Nippon/XTD clutches? These tend to be thinner than the standard and as a result need a longer or ajustable shaft on the Slave to take up the slack. If your pivot ball is worn you can get the same problem. Most comon fault though would likely be a leaking rear cranck seal and contamination.

Have you got the so called uprated thrust bearing that the comes with the Nippon/XTD clutches? These tend to be thinner than the standard and as a result need a longer or ajustable shaft on the Slave to take up the slack. If your pivot ball is worn you can get the same problem. Most comon fault though would likely be a leaking rear cranck seal and contamination.

 

Not a clue, I'm a woman,lol. Will get Dave to check it out, cheers mark:duffer:

Check what out, its all inside the bell housing !

 

The pivet ball is not engaged when the pedal is up.

 

Stripped flywheel bolts could be a possibility and that could cause it to slip

Check what out, its all inside the bell housing !

 

The pivet ball is not engaged when the pedal is up.

 

Stripped flywheel bolts could be a possibility and that could cause it to slip

 

The fork should remain in contact with the pivot when the clutch is released.If the flywheel bolts had stripped youd have no drive.It sounds to me lisa that Dave has done your clutch in :D.give him a slap :slap:

I have that clutch and its fine with regards to slipping, doesnt slip at all and never has done. Although i do have a curious issue with mine but i'll save taht for another day. :)

i mean bolts stripped when fitted, not all of them no.. lol

 

And no i think its a sh*t clutch, only been in there a couple thousand miles !

I have that clutch and its fine with regards to slipping, doesnt slip at all and never has done. Although i do have a curious issue with mine but i'll save taht for another day. :)

 

 

Yours chipped? Lisa's is 370bhp and the same torque i think.

 

Come on.. whats your issue ??

The fork should remain in contact with the pivot when the clutch is released.If the flywheel bolts had stripped youd have no drive.It sounds to me lisa that Dave has done your clutch in :D.give him a slap :slap:

 

I'll go with your theory, Dave new clutch please:D:duffer::dance:

I fitted std clutch plate in mine when i done my conversion and i dont have any probs yet n just done over 1200 miles too and i give it loads on occasion

I fitted std clutch plate in mine when i done my conversion and i dont have any probs yet n just done over 1200 miles too and i give it loads on occasion

 

Well mate, maybe you can take a look at mine n see if its looks like yours, lol:duffer:

did you have the rear crank seal replaced when the clutch was done?

did you have the rear crank seal replaced when the clutch was done?

 

Ask Dave....

No, as it was fine

Time to explore then me thinks eh guys......

Time to explore then me thinks eh guys......

 

Ye and somehow me thinks its gona cost £££££:(

Yours chipped? Lisa's is 370bhp and the same torque i think.

 

Come on.. whats your issue ??

 

I've never had it rolling roaded but it does have the usual, apexi filter, scorpian exhaust and mines chip... It feels quick, as quick as a zed ive been out in running at 15psi... so shes not so bad...

 

 

Right my issue.

 

let me paint a picture, say were doing 40 mph, and the car is in neutral, rolling shall we say, so the engine is idling.

 

Now, when i engage third and start to engage the clutch it doesnt engage smoothly, i get a juddering which feels to me like a warped clutch plate or flywheel, not sure. it does do it in second and first, but not so much in 4th and 5th.

 

Also, it does it the other way round say the car is on a flat level car park, i should be able to pull the clutch gently in at idle in 1st and the car should move away slowly, revs will drop fine but not "bang" or shudder, its weird. I could do with taking someone out in it, but its always done it since the conversion was carried out, just never investigated it really!

Lisa.. Have you tried the peddle adjustment ? it's awkward to get to but prob only needs slight adjustment ( hopefully )

I looked into the XTD (and F1 racing) range of clutches when I was shopping for one a while back....and reviews were very...errr mixed.

 

Some saying they have no issues.....but others reporting problems with Clutch slippage, Unbalanced flywheels causing juddering, rivits undoing and the clutch pads coming loose !

 

They are very cheap, but it seems you get what you pay for.

XTD clutches for the Z32 are all made by Nippon Racing in Japan and are branded a XTD in the US as XTD are a well known and respected US aftermarket manufactorer of Clutches for other Yanky Trucks and muscle cars. They are good clutches if fitted properly.

 

They are a very good clutch, but certain things should be done when fitting. 1, always change the rear crank seal when fitting any new clutch as the lighter different weight will magnify and mico ossilation and make a worn seal leak slightly. Hence contamination.

 

If you are using a puck type clutch or a cinder type surface clutch they are much thinner and will need a longer slave arm to remove the slack. Hence often difficult to get a proper peddle. A new standard OEM thrust bearing will help instead of the performance bearing supplied, but an ajustable slave arm such as supplied by OS Giken, Nipon Racing and Exedy (because they know this) with the supplied bearing is best. If the slack isn't taken up the clutch will chatter when not engaged similar to a multi plate clutch. Difference is muti plates are ment to so that the plates have room to expand and the backing plate is still engaged to the pivot ball.Single lightweight puk plates are just moving back and forth on the main shaft (not Good)

 

The pivot ball should be replace when uprating the clutch. I have learned from experience. The OEM pivot ball is too soft for the higher presures and starts to wear first. Then eventually the ball will snap and you will push the shaft of the slave right out and the fork drops into the bell housing.

 

These clutches are design for street racing and ocational track. They are not the smothest in and around town, but will give great launch without burning out. That what they are designed for. If you want a silky smooth clutch that will hold the power and do trackdays then you need to spend at least £1200 and get a RPS Carbon Carbon or Exedy Carbon Carbon Alloy.

 

Just like a computor you have to decide what programs you are really going to used and get the right hardware in the first place.

 

I'll go for poorly fitted Dave and get her a new clutch with a new seal (only buttons you tight arse) new uprated pivot ball and a OS Giken ajustable slave arm (not expensive) and do it right.

Ye and somehow me thinks its gona cost £££££:(

 

oh dear :x:

XTD clutches for the Z32 are all made by Nippon Racing in Japan and are branded a XTD in the US as XTD are a well known and respected US aftermarket manufactorer of Clutches for other Yanky Trucks and muscle cars. They are good clutches if fitted properly.

 

They are a very good clutch, but certain things should be done when fitting. 1, always change the rear crank seal when fitting any new clutch as the lighter different weight will magnify and mico ossilation and make a worn seal leak slightly. Hence contamination.

 

If you are using a puck type clutch or a cinder type surface clutch they are much thinner and will need a longer slave arm to remove the slack. Hence often difficult to get a proper peddle. A new standard OEM thrust bearing will help instead of the performance bearing supplied, but an ajustable slave arm such as supplied by OS Giken, Nipon Racing and Exedy (because they know this) with the supplied bearing is best. If the slack isn't taken up the clutch will chatter when not engaged similar to a multi plate clutch. Difference is muti plates are ment to so that the plates have room to expand and the backing plate is still engaged to the pivot ball.Single lightweight puk plates are just moving back and forth on the main shaft (not Good)

 

The pivot ball should be replace when uprating the clutch. I have learned from experience. The OEM pivot ball is too soft for the higher presures and starts to wear first. Then eventually the ball will snap and you will push the shaft of the slave right out and the fork drops into the bell housing.

 

These clutches are design for street racing and ocational track. They are not the smothest in and around town, but will give great launch without burning out. That what they are designed for. If you want a silky smooth clutch that will hold the power and do trackdays then you need to spend at least £1200 and get a RPS Carbon Carbon or Exedy Carbon Carbon Alloy.

 

Just like a computor you have to decide what programs you are really going to used and get the right hardware in the first place.

 

I'll go for poorly fitted Dave and get her a new clutch with a new seal (only buttons you tight arse) new uprated pivot ball and a OS Giken ajustable slave arm (not expensive) and do it right.

 

Mark, are you 100% sure about the Nippon/XTD relation ? ....as it seems to be widely regarded that these are "ebay special" Chinese/Korean manufactured clutches. I've only ever seem then for sale on ebay and they sell for about £70 for a complete uprated clutch kit :rolleyes:

The XTD clutches have to be very carefully run in, from what Ive read at least 500 miles without giving it the beans. I havent had any problems with mine apart from a slight judder in first when it was new but that soon went.

without being overly technical Lisa do you actually have any freeplay in the clutch pedal when depressing it because if the freeplay isnt there that causes slip

 

if it needs adjusting....on your back in the footwell...small pin with a locking nut adjusts the clutch pedal travel....its high up so a torch often helps you to see whats whats etc

The XTD clutches have to be very carefully run in, from what Ive read at least 500 miles without giving it the beans. I havent had any problems with mine apart from a slight judder in first when it was new but that soon went.

 

It was slipping when first fitted and ye got better after 500miles, but dont think was run in very gently:(

I think they are crap clutches, never felt good when first fitted really.

Standard OEM will do the job me thinks