My white 92 UK 300, which I've had since 94, failed its MOT big-time.

 

(It's done around 140k miles, I've done a 110 of that, as the second owner)

 

The garage I took it to, are very experienced with 300s, having long history with Nissan, and Datsun before that. They've sold a bunch of 300s and always serviced my car, seemingly knowing them inside out, doing a good job.

 

But they quoted £2,700 for welding alone saying the bottom of the car was rotten, and that a lot of metal needed replacing, and to do that they would have to pretty much remove the interior of the car. So with other stuff, could be talking much more than that.

 

* So any thoughts/suggestions as to what my options are?

 

* Is my only option to scrap it? (A hugely sad thought for me! I know it's only a car but 300s are so special!)

 

* Is there anyone recommended that could keep it alive at a more reasonable cost? (I'm not up to speed with who's good with 300s)

 

* If there's no option but to scrap it/break it, what's the best route? I don't want to be taking the thing to bits, haven't much of a clue.

 

Appreciate any help/advice.

 

Thanks

 

John

:shock: sorry to hear about that mate. i think it would be cheaper for you to take a welding course youself. job done.:)

:

:shock: sorry to hear about that mate. i think it would be cheaper for you to take a welding course youself. job done.:)

 

:):):):):)

.

Sorry to say but if it needs that much work it's probably not worth it.

 

If you have room and want to stick with the 300zx's, Your best bet would be to keep it and get yourself another one with a good shell.

 

You can then swap the parts across which are better and then break the remaining car and sell to make some money back.

 

When these cars fail the MOT and it's going to cost too much to fix it's usually a case of getting it delared sorn, get some tax refund on insurance and road tax. Get it off the road and start braking it. If you have time you can make some nice money like this, if you don't have time or space then I'm sure someone would buy it off you for parts (you won't get anywhere near as much as you would from breaking but you still have options).

i would also say get another shell, it would probably work out cheaper in the long run

you could do a shell change for alot less

with 140000 on the clock i would imagine the rest of the car aint got much life left in it, maybe time to break it and sell the bits, then with the dwindling prices f zeds lately you would prob get another with the money you make

Sounds a lot to me! id take it somewhere else for an mot see what happens

as dave said that price is well over exagerated and and you would be best to get the panels from mjp and get a welder to fit them and at most i would imagine £1000 including parts

Sounds a lot to me! id take it somewhere else for an mot see what happens

 

Definately get another quote for the work.....

 

.....and then if the cost is still prohibitive you would probably be best buying another 300zx and diong what Stuart (SMW) said.

 

Good luck mate,

 

Richard:)

Hi John, i'm from the oxford area too. Whereabouts do you take it

if you don't mind me asking?

Also, you could try Brad at Motovation in Hanney Nr Wantage, he

used to look after my z, and looks after another local z too.

He had one in a while ago for some welding, sills etc, so i'd

imagine he's capable of the repairs you need.

John, so you can see for yourself if it's worth carrying on you can check it out yourself, i assume it's a UK spec ??

anyway, remove the rear seat lower seat section, pull the carpet forward so that as much of the rear footwell area is exposed. From where the seat belt bolt holds the belt coil in place you should see a line of rust and possibly a crack heading inwards towards the centre of the floor. If this rust/crack is only a few inches long then though still bad cos it's come from under the suspension, it is fixable, however if the rust/crack has travelled and you have one each side of the car and they almost meet in the middle, then tbh, it is scrap time, soz

Seen loads of UK zeds in this way and ALL were scrapped when the rust almost or did meet in the middle. Many peeps have had the outside sills repaired and possibly missed this area.

smithy

Hi John, i'm from the oxford area too. Whereabouts do you take it

if you don't mind me asking?

Also, you could try Brad at Motovation in Hanney Nr Wantage, he

used to look after my z, and looks after another local z too.

He had one in a while ago for some welding, sills etc, so i'd

imagine he's capable of the repairs you need.

 

I'm near Weston on the Green, not far from the M40/A34 juntion 9.

 

Will try Brad, many thanks!

 

John

John, so you can see for yourself if it's worth carrying on you can check it out yourself, i assume it's a UK spec ??

anyway, remove the rear seat lower seat section, pull the carpet forward so that as much of the rear footwell area is exposed. From where the seat belt bolt holds the belt coil in place you should see a line of rust and possibly a crack heading inwards towards the centre of the floor. If this rust/crack is only a few inches long then though still bad cos it's come from under the suspension, it is fixable, however if the rust/crack has travelled and you have one each side of the car and they almost meet in the middle, then tbh, it is scrap time, soz

Seen loads of UK zeds in this way and ALL were scrapped when the rust almost or did meet in the middle. Many peeps have had the outside sills repaired and possibly missed this area.

smithy

 

Thanks Smithy, will check it out, great information.

 

John

Really appreciate your replies, all!

 

Comforting/encouraging for someone who really likes his old z, but doesn't know too much about them.

 

Huge thanks!

 

John

I think your a bit of a hero for keeping it for 14 years and 110k!, Quite a long ownership of a 300zx.

 

Good luck with the repairs, but with the price of them at the moment you could have a nice car for the cost of the quoted repair work!

Deffo get another quote for the work! You could buy a zed for that! Or get a kit and respray or an engine re-build or and interior......

 

Ivan

John, so you can see for yourself if it's worth carrying on you can check it out yourself, i assume it's a UK spec ??

anyway, remove the rear seat lower seat section, pull the carpet forward so that as much of the rear footwell area is exposed. From where the seat belt bolt holds the belt coil in place you should see a line of rust and possibly a crack heading inwards towards the centre of the floor. If this rust/crack is only a few inches long then though still bad cos it's come from under the suspension, it is fixable, however if the rust/crack has travelled and you have one each side of the car and they almost meet in the middle, then tbh, it is scrap time, soz

Seen loads of UK zeds in this way and ALL were scrapped when the rust almost or did meet in the middle. Many peeps have had the outside sills repaired and possibly missed this area.

smithy

 

I did what you said and:

 

* I can't see any cracking or rust on the inside at all, either side running from the seatbelt bolts or in line with the seat belt coils, which are behind a side panel.

 

* There is some white sealant stuff going from the outside to the middle on the passenger side. Maybe the evil is under there?

 

* The car is white so rust is always pretty obvious.

 

* There is some sort or bitumin, or sim, material across the rear footwells so damage could be covered up but no sign that I can see.

 

* The driver side sill is bad on the outside, by the seam almost level with the seatbelt bolt, I could push a hole in it underneath.

 

- Would the line be across the floor just a couple on inches in front of where the shape steps up to support the back seat, where this white sealant is?

 

Would appreciate your thoughts and/or any more info etc?

 

Taking in to a local guy who does a lot of welding and had a z himself a while back, for second opinion.

 

Cheers

 

John

Well that's a good sign mate :)

There are actually 4 panels in total and the one where you just checked is No.4, which means at worst the other 3 need replacing or work doing to them. The 4th one takes the rear suspension and is a hefty thing and costs a small fortune, nearly 300 quid a side.

If still available from Mike feeney or zcentre i would buy the outer 2 sections, about 80 quid in total and have a metalwork shop cut and fit them, then a bodyshop finish the top surface. I say metalwork shop because they tend to be a bit more precise with their cutting and shutting without the need for filler.

But certainly your looking at hundreds now and not the 2K plus you were quoted. :hyper:

smithy

Well that's a good sign mate :)

There are actually 4 panels in total and the one where you just checked is No.4, which means at worst the other 3 need replacing or work doing to them. The 4th one takes the rear suspension and is a hefty thing and costs a small fortune, nearly 300 quid a side.

If still available from Mike feeney or zcentre i would buy the outer 2 sections, about 80 quid in total and have a metalwork shop cut and fit them, then a bodyshop finish the top surface. I say metalwork shop because they tend to be a bit more precise with their cutting and shutting without the need for filler.

But certainly your looking at hundreds now and not the 2K plus you were quoted. :hyper:

smithy

 

So just to be clear:

 

> the rust/crack has travelled and you have one each side of the car and they almost meet in the middle, then tbh, it is scrap time, soz

 

It would be really obvious if I had this problem, is that the case? I'm still not sure.

 

Cheers

 

John

Yep, if you can see rust going in a line from around the seatbelt bolt point and heading towards the centre of the floor pan and you have this from both sides, in nearly all cases the car is scrapped. If you only have a wee bit from either side, it means the No.4 panel needs replacing which can be costly but still do-able, i done mine! If no rust visable with rear carpet lifted, then worst case is the other 3 panels need replacing and certainly the outer 2 are real easy to do and not expensive at all :)

HTH

Smithy

If the outer sill has gone then the inner 2 will deffo need replacing!!! While they're doing it get them to check the targa drain pipes where they pass through - its these that cause the sills to rott from the inside outwards ;)

Oh and I got mine done at mates rates for £300 including fab work, welding and spraying! I was owed a favour though lol

Yep, if you can see rust going in a line from around the seatbelt bolt point and heading towards the centre of the floor pan and you have this from both sides, in nearly all cases the car is scrapped. If you only have a wee bit from either side, it means the No.4 panel needs replacing which can be costly but still do-able, i done mine! If no rust visable with rear carpet lifted, then worst case is the other 3 panels need replacing and certainly the outer 2 are real easy to do and not expensive at all :)

HTH

Smithy

 

I've realised that I didn't say let you know the outcome of the MOT failure!

 

Thanks to your input, and others such as andyduff, I took my z to another guy very close to me, who'd had a z himself for a while, and got the whole thing done, inc. MOT and 2 rear steering rack bushes, for £580.

 

Definite result compared to the original quote, for £2,700 for bodywork alone!

 

Huge thanks!

 

John

very good to hear mate, name and shame the offending garage, so we all no to avoid them :smash:

thats fantastic news John :) Glad it all worked out well