Yep....the noise is detonation.

 

So i've knocked the car back down to safety boost and am now on a fault finding mission.

 

i'm firstly changing large boost pipes for new ones as mine are knackered, re checking the installation of my EBC pipes etc, changing the spark plugs, moving a pressure sensor T Piece from next to the fuel regultor (oops) to further down the line.

 

Im going to flush the coolant and clean the rad as the car runs very hot

 

Will then be into looking at fueling after that. Any other inside info anyone can give me the heads up on ??

 

I have popped the car on a conzult (thanks Topless!!!!!) and all is fine with the engine sensors etc.

The timing was at 17 degrees with the tickover just shy of 1000rpm , if you want to bring it over we can put the timing back a little?

 

I would have a look at john dixons post about setting up a boost controller?

 

Change the take off point for the boost controller

 

Change that dodgy boost hose.

 

Change the mystery spark plugs

 

 

Thank you Mark, thats a really kind offer. thank you so much for all the advice last night too !! :bow:

yup ypu need some decent plugs in, you'll notice a difference straight away

Basically yes.

Leave start boost (set gain) at 0 until the last thing.

Start with set about 30% and gain about 20. Do FULL THROTTLE runs in 3rd from about 2000rpm until redline if possible. You should be getting 10-12psi - if not adjust the set until it's around there.

Adjust gain until the spool up is quick and the boost is not unstable at high revs - you'll feel the car surge. What you're aiming for is the highest gain before the boost surges at high revs or spikes too much at midrange'

Once that's done then adjust the set to give the boost level you want.

Finally, set the 'set gain' at about 3psi below the running level - that should give you the best respons possible without affecting the stability.

Re-run in 4th if possible and if unstable reduce gain slightly.

 

Oh, obviously set the limiter to about 15.5 with around 20% cut too!

 

Here it is :)

I'd say from 3500 rpm theres a slight noise and at 6500 rpm its quite loud. Its accuring at 9 psi too, goes away in safety boost. It is bad in hot weather. Better in the cooler wheather in the evening but it still does it.

 

my gain is at 20.

 

Det typically occurs, fairly briefly, around peak torque, so 3250 auto, 3750 manual. For that to extend up to 6500 there must be something causing a significant problem. My chips to not have separate maps for safety boost (that was a conscious decision by SE) and if you are running a boost controller then very little different happens when you 'think' you are in safety boost.

Forgot to say also ditch the prvr system as well!

Ok thanks,

 

In theory moving that dodgy boost line sender, replacing inlet hoses and spark plugs, retarding the timing and removing the prvr system should provide slightly more fuel and a stable boost to set the boost controller gain from !!

The first rule of bodging is to fix what you know is wrong first and then see what blows up ;)

Det typically occurs, fairly briefly, around peak torque, so 3250 auto, 3750 manual. For that to extend up to 6500 there must be something causing a significant problem. My chips to not have separate maps for safety boost (that was a conscious decision by SE) and if you are running a boost controller then very little different happens when you 'think' you are in safety boost.

 

Are you saying "your" chips do NOT have a det map?

Are you saying "your" chips do NOT have a det map?

 

Yes, that is correct, they have the same map in twice, that was intentional. It is something I have considered altering myself but never got around to doing and testing on my car.

Yes, that is correct, they have the same map in twice, that was intentional. It is something I have considered altering myself but never got around to doing and testing on my car.

 

Surely it makes sense to at least have a more rich mixture on the det map?

Do the other chips run a seperate map if det accours ???

Update, Some parts ordered for weekend,

 

Spark Plugs (NGK Platinum)

Silicone Intercooler pipes

4mm Silicone pipe to remove prvr and move some T pieces away from fuel pressure sensor

Elec Front Fan

New smaller number plate to aid airflow :D

 

Will also adjust CAS -17 degrees and flush then replace the coolant .

 

Aiming to lower the intake temp and get more fuel in, balance the intake pressures at the throttle boddies and sort any possble boost leaks

maybe retard the timing to 14 if your going to be running higher boost especially in this kinda weather.

I'll be doing single figure mpg, lol

I'll be doing single figure mpg, lol

 

Dont we always? haha

Do the other chips run a seperate map if det accours ???

 

Some do, some don't. Like I said, Pete had his reasons for doing it that way and I've never got around to experimenting otherwise. I had contemplated using the base Nissan map but didn't really think that would be suitable. 'Borrowing' someone elses map seemed like a reasonable idea but then you are just gambling that they did it right. Chucking fuel at the problem is not the right answer and can cause problems as well.

The problem with the knock maps is that if you have a boost controller fitted and the ECU goes into those maps, they are not expanded for the higher boost you will STILL be running (no safety boost with EBC ;) ) and will probably do a lot more harm than good....

Some do, some don't. Like I said, Pete had his reasons for doing it that way and I've never got around to experimenting otherwise. I had contemplated using the base Nissan map but didn't really think that would be suitable. 'Borrowing' someone elses map seemed like a reasonable idea but then you are just gambling that they did it right. Chucking fuel at the problem is not the right answer and can cause problems as well.

 

No don't worry, im just trying to make sure the fueling is correct so it can be ruled out. The other bits need replacing anyway tbh

The problem with the knock maps is that if you have a boost controller fitted and the ECU goes into those maps, they are not expanded for the higher boost you will STILL be running (no safety boost with EBC ;) ) and will probably do a lot more harm than good....

 

Ah yes, that true :slap:

The problem with the knock maps is that if you have a boost controller fitted and the ECU goes into those maps, they are not expanded for the higher boost you will STILL be running (no safety boost with EBC ;) ) and will probably do a lot more harm than good....

I don't think that is the case.

 

Regardless of how much boost you are running, if det is detected and the ECU switchs to a richer fuel mixture this will make it less likely to continue detting.

 

I think when it comes to mapping you need to take it to someone who knows what they are doing and not just blindly copying someone else's maps!

 

IIRC - JDs chips had a very rich mixture and retarded timing on the knock map. It makes a lot of sense to me!

I don't think that is the case.

 

Regardless of how much boost you are running, if det is detected and the ECU switchs to a richer fuel mixture this will make it less likely to continue detting.

 

I think when it comes to mapping you need to take it to someone who knows what they are doing and not just blindly copying someone else's maps!

 

IIRC - JDs chips had a very rich mixture and retarded timing on the knock map. It makes a lot of sense to me!

 

No! When running higher boost you will be beyond the scope of the maps so the fueling will be incorrect...

No! When running higher boost you will be beyond the scope of the maps so the fueling will be incorrect...

In what way?

Not enough fuel for the amount of air.

Update,

 

Have Fitted new shiny blue intake boost hoses and re-done the boost controller pipework. One of the hoses wasn't exactly perfect, so thats sorted.

 

Fitted the new elec fan (what an arse that was!!!!)

 

moved the sender for the EBC to the other end of the balance bar so theres a single pipe between the fuel regulator and the balance bar.

 

Spark plugs and timing this weekend.

Not enough fuel for the amount of air.

I know what you are saying.

 

However, there is enough scope on the chip to get enough fuel into the mix, and this is true of the knock map too.

 

I really don't understand why anyone would want a chip without a richer knock map built in?

How can that be more dangerous than running without a knock map?

 

Please enlighten me...