Yep....the noise is detonation.

 

So i've knocked the car back down to safety boost and am now on a fault finding mission.

 

i'm firstly changing large boost pipes for new ones as mine are knackered, re checking the installation of my EBC pipes etc, changing the spark plugs, moving a pressure sensor T Piece from next to the fuel regultor (oops) to further down the line.

 

Im going to flush the coolant and clean the rad as the car runs very hot

 

Will then be into looking at fueling after that. Any other inside info anyone can give me the heads up on ??

 

I have popped the car on a conzult (thanks Topless!!!!!) and all is fine with the engine sensors etc.

Are you sure the base timing is correct (should have shown up as approx 15 degrees on consult). I haven't seen your earlier post (presumably there was one) but I got det for no apparrent reason and when checking the timing it was 10 degrees advanced. Was unable to explain it at the time and still can't. Adjusted the CAS and all was well...

Is your car standard or modified.

Timing was at 17 degrees at an idle of around 900 - 950 rpm which is about right

 

Mods,

 

HKS Mushroom Filter

Apexi BOV's

Blitz SBC i-Colour boost controller

Straight through Cat Back

Andy P Chip

You're right on the limit with 17 degrees advance, stock is 15 degrees +/- 2. You may find that winding it back to the stock average 15 degrees helps. You might lose a bit of 'edge' but better than losing your engine. Early ignition is the cause - whether this is through spark ocurring very early or an alternative cause of combustion such as an overheated combustion chamber (leading to a hot spot and therefore a source of ignition). If the spark is occurring at the right time you need to look for other possible causes of excess heat such as an intermittent injector or air leak (leading to weak mixture), plugs which are too hot (inspect the firing end, all should be approx the same, light tan). Of course if you're running crazy boost with standard injectors you're going to get det sooner or later...

 

Have you plugged up all the old recirc connections properly?

 

Just my shilling....

 

H

Check the base timing with a strobe, the ConZult tells you nothing except what it thinks it should be !

 

Plus how much boost are you running ?

Running 95 unleaded with increased boost and advanced base timing is asking for detonation.

Timing was at 17 degrees at an idle of around 900 - 950 rpm which is about right

 

Mods,

 

HKS Mushroom Filter

Apexi BOV's

Blitz SBC i-Colour boost controller

Straight through Cat Back

Andy P Chip

 

i am getting det aswell mate at 1 bar along with pinking have been advised to add octane booster as my mines ecu is proberly mapped for 102 ron and has an agressive ignition map, might not solve your problem tho as i recon andy chips will be mapped for uk fuel but in this warmer weather might be worth uping it 1 point

i may change my ecu for one of andys was going to phone him to discus it but have deleted the pm he sent me with his number on wink wink

Check the base timing with a strobe, the ConZult tells you nothing except what it thinks it should be !

 

Plus how much boost are you running ?

 

 

Yep, we checked the base timing with a strobe, not the conzult. I was boosting to 0.86 bar or around 12 psi. But it was then doing it on lower boosts too. Especially at the weekend in the hot weather.

Check all the injector connectors that they are clean and the coil plugs as they need to be giving a good connection. This was the cause of my det which lead to broken rings on number 6 and 4.

 

And how much boost were u running mate?

You're right on the limit with 17 degrees advance, stock is 15 degrees +/- 2. You may find that winding it back to the stock average 15 degrees helps. You might lose a bit of 'edge' but better than losing your engine. Early ignition is the cause - whether this is through spark ocurring very early or an alternative cause of combustion such as an overheated combustion chamber (leading to a hot spot and therefore a source of ignition). If the spark is occurring at the right time you need to look for other possible causes of excess heat such as an intermittent injector or air leak (leading to weak mixture), plugs which are too hot (inspect the firing end, all should be approx the same, light tan). Of course if you're running crazy boost with standard injectors you're going to get det sooner or later...

 

Have you plugged up all the old recirc connections properly?

 

Just my shilling....

 

 

H

 

 

Thanks for that, going on from what you've said, the det sounds like it's from the drivers side bank. The drivers side bank has a dodgy intake hose which i have just bought new silicone ones to replace it. I was loosing boost at top end by about 1 psi. Could that cause it?

 

Will also check the plugs and then check timing. How is that changed btw??

You need a timing gun to adjust the CAS. but check and see how central the CAS unit looks as bang in the middle is 15degrees.....

 

if its detting at 12 psi then there is a prob somewhere.

You said in the other thread you were using standard unleaded..you WILL get detonation on standard unleaded with increased boost and timing. Have you tried it on 97+ ron fuel ?

You said in the other thread you were using standard unleaded..you WILL get detonation on standard unleaded with increased boost and timing. Have you tried it on 97+ ron fuel ?

 

Legrath what about the american ecu's are some of them mapped using 95 octane?

You said in the other thread you were using standard unleaded..you WILL get detonation on standard unleaded with increased boost and timing. Have you tried it on 97+ ron fuel ?

 

Yes, its full of shell V-Power now.

On the subject of checking for leaks, I've been checking mine but couldn't get any pressure into the system (see earlier post). My solution (which may be old news to you guys) was to split the intake system. Blank off one side of the air induction T pipe, use a 'dummy' with inflation valve to put pressure into the system (a good investment if you don't already have one), remove the pipes that connect to the Throttle bodies and take it one side at a time - thereby narrowing down which side has a leak. To check each side in turn, I used a surgical glove over the pipe end, which will obviously inflate when the system is pressurised (you could use a condom if you're so inclined but I prefer to save these in case I get lucky). Once you've found the leaky side you can continue to narrow it down by separating pipes further down the circuit, putting the glove over the end and testing again etc etc...you will need to do some disassembly to get to the appropriate pipes (a real pain with the main plastic inlet pipe) but chances are you may be looking to replace one pipe or other anyway...It's all a bit Heath Robinson but I suspect he may have designed a number of systems on the Z32 anyway ;-)

 

Using this method you can also include the plenum, connect the side you are pressurising and put the glove over the other side TB inlet...

 

You do need to understand the inlet system to use this method effectively.

 

I don't think I've explained this very eloquently but hopefully you get the general idea. It should save the nightmare of removing all the intake pipes to determine if one is split or loose - or making a guess only to find you got the wrong side.

 

With the engine idling you could try pulling one of the smaller vacuum lines from the balance bar, if the engine note doesn't change noticably then you've prob got a bigger leak somewhere else.

 

To adjust the timing you need to slacken off the bolts on the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) at the top front right of the engine and rotate slightly. I think it's clockwise to retard the ignition - don't quote me on that! See the timing tweak under tech at http://www.ttzd.com/.

 

Good luck

 

H

Timing was at 17 degrees at an idle of around 900 - 950 rpm which is about right

 

Mods,

 

HKS Mushroom Filter

Apexi BOV's

Blitz SBC i-Colour boost controller

Straight through Cat Back

Andy P Chip

 

your base idle needs to be at 15 degrees, before duffers done my timing belt it was set at 19 degrees whih is WRONG, just try it James it cant do it any harm;)

, just try it James it cant do it any harm;)

 

Famous last words, lol

If your running increased boost then you are probably maxing out your injectors which will then cause detonation. Apart from changing your injectors to say 555's, the only other thing would be to reduce your boost pressure.

Famous last words, lol

 

is this since silverbullit set your controller or is all the time?

is this since silverbullit set your controller or is all the time?

 

 

No it was before, so he's innocent. Lol

No it was before, so he's innocent. Lol

 

blame him anyway :x: only jokin bullit seriously i'd get the idle set and turn the boost down till its sorted.

If your running increased boost then you are probably maxing out your injectors which will then cause detonation. Apart from changing your injectors to say 555's, the only other thing would be to reduce your boost pressure.

 

The stock injectors can handle a bit more than just 12psi so definatly something going on.

The stock injectors can handle a bit more than just 12psi so definatly something going on.

 

Agreed. That is not high boost, I ran that on a standard ECU for a couple of years without problem.

 

You can get det if the gain is too high on the boost controller. Where in the rev range does the det occur and under what conditions ?

I'd say from 3500 rpm theres a slight noise and at 6500 rpm its quite loud. Its accuring at 9 psi too, goes away in safety boost. It is bad in hot weather. Better in the cooler wheather in the evening but it still does it.

 

my gain is at 20.

The timing was at 17 degrees with the tickover just shy of 1000rpm , if you want to bring it over we can put the timing back a little?

 

I would have a look at john dixons post about setting up a boost controller?

 

Change the take off point for the boost controller

 

Change that dodgy boost hose.

 

Change the mystery spark plugs