Am trying to change the outer ball joint on my hicas.

 

Have followed this thread.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=1080877#post1080877

 

but with no luck.

 

Have even tried to hit it with a 15lb sledge hammer.

 

Anyone else got any ideas?

 

Darrell

Have you grounded of the side with the lip?

 

if you have and it still wont punch out then try heating the hub and not the bush then punch it out.

Have you grounded of the side with the lip?

 

if you have and it still wont punch out then try heating the hub and not the bush then punch it out.

 

Tried that.

 

There seems to be some sort of glue round the bush bit so it has possibly been bodged in before.

 

Have ony got a blow torch so can't get much heat into it either.

 

Darrell

Well heat the crap out of it.. blow tourch it for a minute. The hub is aluminium so the bush should come out eventually with heat im sure. at least burn the glue off it and get a 20mm socket or whatever size fits in the hole and whack it.

Whats the size of the Hub nut. Is it 36mm?

 

Darrell

A bit of heat and it,ll come out nicely bud , it,s probably just the corrosion holding it in :dance::dance: HTH

Heating cast alloy is very dodgey so tread with caution.It becomes brittle and could snap at a later date.Dont use a flame directly on it.A heat gun would be safer.

I think I am going to contact NASA because what ever is holding that ball joint in either is either from outer space or should hold the space station together.

 

I think I will look on ebay for some C4.

 

It aint budging, heat hammer pullers welded bolts, I am down to prayers now. The stupid thing is that if I hadn't cut the end off the ball joint I could take it to anybody, anywhere and let them sweat over it.

 

We haven't managed to get the hub off and we haven't managed to get the ball joint out so if anyone wants a three wheeled 300ZX give me a ring.

 

I found a post that someone mabaged to do it in 45 mins. All I can say is you ae more than welcome to come round and watch waht C4 can do.

 

Cheers for all the advice guys

 

Darrell

I think I am going to contact NASA because what ever is holding that ball joint in either is either from outer space or should hold the space station together.

 

I think I will look on ebay for some C4.

 

 

bbwaaaaahhahahah

 

man youve made my day.....

 

So wouldnt the heat burn off the stuff?

 

 

Can u post up some pics so we can see whats going on in there?

Well u can always buy a new hub from andy supercar parts for real cheap and put all ya bits on it......

We can't even get the hub off.

 

Stupid mo fo has glued everything.

 

Glad we made your day. Am just off to find some rope. New thread.

 

How do you tie a noose.

 

Have borrowed a mechanics 36mm socket and bar and he wants it back in the morning as well. Told him he can come round and get it. Only problem is he will have to bring his trailor as it is attached to me hub. :rofl:

 

God I'm pissed, off and alchohol.

 

Pictures would be censored. It ain't pretty. Theres blood and snot everywhere.

 

The snoot is mainly from me crying and the blood is from be boys knuckles.

 

Darrell

grind the threaded part off heat so the ball comes out and twat it with a

hammer and drift that's how I had to get mine out but will warn you that

plastic they use to surround the ball stinks and make your eyes smart

grind the threaded part off heat so the ball comes out and twat it with a

hammer and drift that's how I had to get mine out but will warn you that

plastic they use to surround the ball stinks and make your eyes smart

 

Cheers for that mate but we have tried that. Even had the 15Ib sledge on it.

 

It will be of to a mechanic soon so he can sweat over it.

 

Darrell

can someone tell me,is this the reason for the Hicas light coming on at higher speeds,low speeds like town work no light.

can someone tell me,is this the reason for the Hicas light coming on at higher speeds,low speeds like town work no light.

 

I doubt it. Mine wasn't I had a strange wobble like the wheel was loose, the car was wandering across the road like there were high winds and there was a slight shuddering under braking.

 

The HICAS light is more likely to be low fluid but I may be wrong. I am sure someone will be along to correct me.

 

You may be better off putting up a new thread about it.

 

Darrell

It.s deffo a strange one this , mine came out a piece of pi55 with a gentle warm :confused::confused:

Only other suggestion is to have someone hold the sledghammer against the back of the alloy arm to give it a bit of weight/ support to drift against just in case the shock of hammering is being absorbed by the mounting bushes .

It.s deffo a strange one this , mine came out a piece of pi55 with a gentle warm :confused::confused:

Only other suggestion is to have someone hold the sledghammer against the back of the alloy arm to give it a bit of weight/ support to drift against just in case the shock of hammering is being absorbed by the mounting bushes .

 

It seems to have been glued in for some reason. Was probably loose at some stage.

 

Yes the hub does move when being hit but have also used a gear puller to try and push it out, all that happened was I bent the gear puller.

 

Tried a bolt to try and pull it out as suggested by bigsimon by PM but all that happened was the thread stripped on the bolt.

 

Have a guy picking the car up on Friday, think he will remove the hub and try his 15 tonne press to get it out.

 

Failling that it is a new hub or some C4.

 

Darrell

Thanks for reply,have checked power steering fluid level and did top up couple of weeks ago.Just thought i'd ask as the subject same.

If you look at a new nissan balljoint, you can see a slight taper.

Using the 'grind+ knock' method is going against this taper, sometimes you will get lucky+ the balljoint will crush into itself enough to pop out the wrong way, then again sometimes it doesn't.

Trying to do it this way took me hours+ hours of frustration, i hammered, drifted, had a big hammer+ a weight behind the hub+ all i did was sweat! :hurl:

The first time i tried to weld a bolt where the thread was, it snapped the bolt.

I then managed to weld through a bigger nut, with a bit of care so as not to knacker threads, poured cold water over it, then got an m20(IIRC) bolt screwed into it, a huge imperial socket over it, chunky washer onto the bolt + it wound out-i wont say easily, but it came out! :smw:

I wish you luck, drove me bloody potty, mie also had a white 'goo' around old balljoint.

I also sprayed penetrant dye all over it, tp see if i had cracked hub, but thankfully hadn't.

cheers mate. Gonna get someone else to do it now.

 

He can do both hubs bushes and upper arms while he is at it and then set it all up hopefully.

 

He has a 15 tonne press so hopefully that will remove it.

 

Darrell

One last quiestion, is there a circlip round the ball joint on the blunt end as such, the end the seal goes on.

 

Was told there was on the OZ site.

 

Darrell

No circlips on this one, just a pressed on seal, thats smaller than the joint end of body+ the bolted on cap.

Looking at it, the tapers bigger than i thought, quite a step.

Yeah have been talking to my boy, who was trying to do it, and he says he tried it in both directions. There does seem to be a tapper on the new joint but as people have removed the joint by pushing it throught the wrong way then I assume that it is possible.

 

Have just looked at teh manual and it says about removing the ball joint snap ring.

 

Hopefully the mechanic will have more luck.

 

Only problem is he can't pick the car up till friday so am without it during this sunny weather.

 

Darrell