Hi,

 

im thinking about upgrading my Z. Running 0,9 bar now.

 

The mods I like to make will bring +450hp but less than 500.

 

I already have a K&N dualintake at home, but now I read that it

makes the car running "less smooth" and I think I don´t like that...

 

Have already a K&N cone Filter mounted.

 

Do I need a dualintake when running aroun 1,2 - 1,3 bar boost?

Sorry, don´t know it in psi...

 

Thanks, Patrick

Hi,

 

im thinking about upgrading my Z. Running 0,9 bar now.

 

The mods I like to make will bring +450hp but less than 500.

 

I already have a K&N dualintake at home, but now I read that it

makes the car running "less smooth" and I think I don´t like that...

 

Have already a K&N cone Filter mounted.

 

Do I need a dualintake when running aroun 1,2 - 1,3 bar boost?

Sorry, don´t know it in psi...

 

Thanks, Patrick

Hi!

You dont need it before past 550hp... If you got the chip or engine management for it, it woks great with dual intake.

Remember to put on the balance tube between the two intakes ;)

Hi!

You dont need it before past 550hp... If you got the chip or engine management for it, it woks great with dual intake.

Remember to put on the balance tube between the two intakes ;)

 

not entirely true, yes in theory one intake is enough but a oem AFM will not support 550 hp, 450 is about the max the oem AFM will support so you can then either go AFM'less with say the aem ecu or go for a dual setup :)

 

Mike

not entirely true, yes in theory one intake is enough but a oem AFM will not support 550 hp, 450 is about the max the oem AFM will support so you can then either go AFM'less with say the aem ecu or go for a dual setup :)

 

Mike

It actually can support more than 500..

Tried it in a dyno here with wideband, and also checked it with an S-AFC2.....

Some say it can support 600hp, but thats not a god idea...

I can get my ecu programmed, so "it knows" that there is a filter per side(doubles it)

But I heared, the "bad" running stays also with this...

It actually can support more than 500..

Tried it in a dyno here with wideband, and also checked it with an S-AFC2.....

Some say it can support 600hp, but thats not a god idea...

 

well there talking rubbish, it simply wont do it, you will be seriously pushing it with 500 and its just not worth it as its so important.

 

IMHO ditch it and go for a MAP sensor, much more reliable

 

Mike

Its the best to run dual if you can.

What kida bad running have you heard about? Idling? or low rpm?

I can get my ecu programmed, so "it knows" that there is a filter per side(doubles it)

But I heared, the "bad" running stays also with this...

 

tbh its mainly down to bad mapping, most who go for a dual setup either get a SAFC or a custom map which is not good enough for a well tuned car, invest in a decent stand alone ECU with a MAP sensor ;)

well there talking rubbish, it simply wont do it, you will be seriously pushing it with 500 and its just not worth it as its so important.

 

IMHO ditch it and go for a MAP sensor, much more reliable

 

Mike

Agree on the MAF, but it can support more.fact...!

The mods I like to make will bring +450hp but less than 500.

Flywheel or Wheel HP ?

Hi!

You dont need it before past 550hp...

Flywheel or Wheel HP ?

450 is about the max t

Flywheel or Wheel HP ?

 

I guess everyone needs to make sure they are on the same wavelength. Its an entirely different ball game if one person means FWHP and the other WHP

Agree on the MAF, but it can support more.fact...!

I meant MAP :nana2:

Agree on the MAF, but it can support more.fact...!

 

fact according to who?? no doubt the americans who talk BS mate

 

Mike

i'm talking at the wheels :)

Sorry, 550hp in the engine

See ;)

Ha ha! Then we are agree then :rofl: :rofl:

Sorry, 550hp in the engine

 

still think 550 at the engine is a little optamistic on a oem AFM, in fact i would seriously doubt any one has one running more than 450 RWHP which is what 500-510 at the fly

 

Mike

still think 550 at the engine is a little optamistic on a oem AFM, in fact i would seriously doubt any one has one running more than 450 RWHP which is what 500-510 at the fly

 

Mike

A friend did it with his, with no problem..

I'm running dual intake, idles fine, no running problems.

 

Why don't you see how you get on with a single one first. If you feel it's holding your setup back then switch to dual.

If you want to throw a bit more cash at it go MAP but for less than 500hp i don't see the point.

450 RWHP

 

But thats all "circa"

450 RWHP

 

But thats all "circa"

Then youre around the limit...

So go for dual intakes, maybe you push it closer to 500RWHP :hyper:

What kinda turbos do you use?

Back to the original question.

 

The Doolz is a pretty popular dual intake.

You can run this many ways:

 

With a double MAF linked up to a different engine management system that allowed readings from 2 seperate MAF's

 

With a single MAF, chip then needs to be mapped to double the readings.

 

With a single MAF, chip stays the same but you can use a AFC to tune the engine to allow for the additional air.

 

In some cases idle may be a little lumpy, but in most you can avoid this by making a front balance bar. It does the same as your rear balance bar (the one on the back of the plenumn), but it used to connect the two boost hoses before they reach the throttle bodies, this will equal out the pressure going into the cylinders so each side of the engine will recieve an equal pressure.

"With a single MAF, chip then needs to be mapped to double the readings."

 

That´s what I would do. No problem. (though I heared that the car doesn´t

run as smooth as before, also with a good mapping)

 

 

"The Doolz is a pretty popular dual intake.

You can run this many ways:"

 

I already own a K&N dual intake system, would do the job.

 

"What kinda turbos do you use?"

 

That´s kinda new for you, I guess. I am the 3rd austrian to do that.

In austria is a specialist for all kind of turbos. They upgrade the stock

turbos with "racing bearings", so they can (on the save side) push around

1,3 bar (max 1,6 bar). Costs are around 1000 pounds. It works good and

save, good original character stays, just more boost pressure. The

first 2 cars run amazing good...

 

Have already all parts at home, exept the Nismo 555...

Here's what a doolz looks like and gives 2 independent air feeds. 1 per throttle body. You then stick a dual cone filter on each bank.

 

 

Also standard Turbos would also need bigger impellors to push enough air volume to produce 450 RWHP. Even at 1.3 bar. all they will be doing is producing a lot of very hot air which is going to see your pistons off very quickly and not even produce as much power as running at 14 psi.

Hi MarkZX,

 

My K&N does the same, as said before.

 

"Also standard Turbos would also need bigger impellors to push enough air volume to produce 450 RWHP. Even at 1.3 bar. all they will be doing is producing a lot of very hot air which is going to see your pistons off very quickly and not even produce as much power as running at 14 psi."

 

The standardturbos can rev much higher with the special bearings, thats

how the higher boostlevel is generated. It works good, believe me :D

 

Standard bearing makes the turbines not run higher than about 1 - 1,1

bar pressure, cause of to much friction. The racing bearing generates less

friction (just the same thing as a ballpointbearing)

 

Hope, my english is understood

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-300zx-Fairlady-Z-Dual-Intake-system-K-N-Filter_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38634QQihZ016QQitemZ260217447358QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

This is the intakesys which I already own.