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Can anyone thread me a guide to removing an airlock from the rad/cooling system? i've tried and failed to fix this problem a few times now so jus need to check that i'm doing it right,cheers zed geezers.

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There's a screw on the other side of the rad cap. Unscrew that. Then keep filling up the rad while giving the top rad hose a good squeeze to get air out. Once the screw hole is just throwing coolant out then screw it back up and keep squeezing.

 

Air should still pop out of the rad cap and keep filling until it stops throwing air out. You'll know it's working if you warm up the car and turn the heaters up and it's chucking hot air out.

 

Just remember, squeeze that top rad hose until you feel it's got water rather then air!

I have had real probs with some older Renaults. I stick the hose pipe in the top of the rad and let it push the air out, always works. Of course you then need to address the antifreeze issue.

 

Never had such a prob on a Z though.

yepp, as Mike said engine running and have the blowers on max temp and max flow ;)

 

Vijay

  • 1 month later...

wish id read this thread first - im having a crack at this too. waited about 10 mins at idle and giving it a few revs when the oil pressure came down. got bored, put the cap on and went for a 5 min drive, came back, gently took cap off - water was hot but not boiling, waited another 10 mins at idle/gentle revs here and there up to abou 4k. started to rain. got bored. gave up. didnt think about the aircon :headvswal :headvswal

Blowers on or off makes no difference at all. Might as well put the indicators on too.

 

You do need to set the heater to max (ie 40C) as this will open the valves that let the coolant pass through the heater matrix (which is where most airlocks occur).

 

I have always had success following this procedure:

 

- park the car on an incline where the front of the car is HIGHER than the rear (or just jack up the front).

- put heater on max (don't need to put the blowers to max though)

- remove the rad cap and bleed screw and fill (via rad cap aperture) whilst engine is idling

- keep filling until no more air bubbles apear at either the rad cap or bleed screw aperture.

- put the bleed screw back in and then the rad cap

- make sure the expansion tank has no more than 600ml coolant in it

 

Job done!

 

Keep checking the level of coolant for a few days and top up as/when required. If the level continually drops then start looking for coolant leaks.

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