Peeps,

 

Ive got a very odd problem with my cooling system. It APPEARS to be too efficient. I think i'm right in that the quoted number by nissan for the running temp of the engine is mid 80's degrees C. Now at motorway cruising speed (70 - 75 mph), the car is only getting up to 70c, and the oil temp is only getting to 80c. These reading are being taken from Defi gauges with the appropriate aftermarket sensors, so at the moment ive got no reason the disbeleive the gauges

 

Now the problem with this is that, being a fooking cold time of year, the heater barely gets luke warm, so im freezing my ass off inside the car.

 

the other concern i have is that the oil isnt getting to proper working temperature which may be causing damage to the engine.

 

Any one got any ideas on:

 

a) what is causing this

 

and

 

b) how to remidy it

 

Cheers

 

Nick

Simplest answer would be the thermostat is stuck wide open. I know this is a new Z for you, has it always been this way or is this something new? Does it have a more efficiant aftermarket rad? I wouldn't worry about the oil, 80c is well within it's operating temp. The oddest thing is your heater, even at 75c the water should be plenty warm to keep you nice and toasty. My heater kicks in when the water temp hits 40c.

Hi,

Thermostat faulty?.... and has your heater matrix been bypassed?

Thermostat did cross my mind, but couldnt think of anyway it could link to the heater problem.

 

TBH i dont know if it always been like this, but it has since ive owned it. The defi gauges have a record function, but they were reset just after i bought it, and even then i think it only peaked at 88c.

has your heater matrix been bypassed?

 

Nope. It does blow warm air, but only what i would call luke warm. And it doesnt appear to be loosing any coolant anywhere either

anyone else?

could be a loose flux capacitor resistor in the pipe matrix just next to the wobbly shaft :)

could be a simple air lock....... try emptying the rad and refilling properly.

That would be the simplest solution, an air lock in the matrix, well at least ive got something to try tomorrow.

 

Cheers bud, sometimes it takes someone else to state the obvious for you to realise its there

;)

let us know the result.

Have you had a water by pass as done

could be a loose flux capacitor resistor in the pipe matrix just next to the wobbly shaft :)

 

 

LOL

if its an air lock, loosen the bleed screw at the bottom of the rad SLIGHTLY so its just dripping and put a pressure tester on the rad cap and pump it out, that way you know its done properly and you can do a coolant change at the same time :D

Yep forgot to mention that bit ;)

if its an air lock, loosen the bleed screw at the bottom of the rad SLIGHTLY so its just dripping and put a pressure tester on the rad cap and pump it out, that way you know its done properly and you can do a coolant change at the same time :D

 

Don't you mean the bleed screw at the top of the rad?

 

The easiest way to bleed the car is to put the car on a steep incline, front highest take the rad cap and bleed screw off and run the engine.

thats the way ive always done it topless

I think I'll stick to my way, I like the easy life ;)

thought it was easier the other way but i'll try that next time, cheers topless

Something else to add. Ive just got the engine up to it normal running temp (70c) and with the heater fan on 4, it does blow hot air. when i bring it down to 2, it blows cold air.

 

Going to check for air locks this avo, so will let you know if it makes any difference

is yours non aircon? heater fan on 4? mine doesnt have that. Is that coz of the different consol control thing?

is yours non aircon? heater fan on 4? mine doesnt have that. Is that coz of the different consol control thing?

That will a Series 2 onwards. it has 4 fan speeds, wheras series 1 had 3 speeds (low, normal, high)

ah i see ok.

i wish i had 4 fan speed imagine the possibilities :)

ah i see ok.

i wish i had 4 fan speed imagine the possibilities :)

i would'nt mind that myself jimmy :smash:

ah i see ok.

i wish i had 4 fan speed imagine the possibilities :)

 

For those times when three levels of blow just isn't enough...

Definitely stuck open dud thermostat. Your fuel consumption will also be through the roof and performance stuck on safety boost. Hope you havent just bought it! Some wags would remove the thermostat to stop it throwing out its water with a duff cylinder head gasket.

Sorted. Was an air lock in the Heater Matrix to the equivalent of 1 pint of coolant.

 

I was fairly sure it wasnt the thermostat, not running safety boost etc.

 

No i have 4 fan speeds because i own a Series 4 with manual air con not digital climate control.

 

And no she's ultra shiney as well!