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Well I have finally started to take my dash out.

 

I have given up outside for today, come in to build my gauge cluster.

 

Following issues so far:

 

Cant get the bloody hazard switch connector off

 

Fog light switch has been bodge soldered by prev so im gonna have to cut the wires.

 

Cant get the stpuid connector off the internal temp sensor

 

Cant feel a screw head in the rear of the steering wheel to get the cover off, to get the wheel off.

 

Can anyone help with these?

 

Can of worms lol!

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=38722&stc=1

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  • Author

Ahh so the air con has a small rad in the heater box that I can remove or are you refering to the one in the engine bay in front of the engine coolant rad as that is long gone.

 

Cheers

  • Author

ta-da!

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=38751&stc=1

 

Spend about 10min trying to pull the dash upwards and checking for more screws then I pulled it forward and pop out it comes!

 

I'll get down to removing the heater box and clutch booster now!

what the hell is a clutch booster!!!

 

cool thread wish there were more of these.

 

i would like to have the balls to do this hehehe. maybe when summer comes.

  • Author

cbr337!

 

I unbolted the big impact bar thing but my alarm control box is wired in through it so I cant take it fully out the car grrr.

 

Is there a knack to getting the air boxes out? I cant seem to get the two big boxes out. The one to the left that sits behind the glovebox is loose and has come out about 3 inches. But its stuck there, wont come any futher. I dont want to just tug on it.

 

I have removed the nuts from the top and two from the bottom. Also took the ones out from the main box but I think there maybe another one or two.

 

Any pointers would but helpful!

 

 

Hodgey - I'll be driving the darn thing when summer comes! :smash:

 

The clutch booster is in the second pic above. The clutch on a zx is hydrolic not cable operated and this provides vaccum assist just like the brake booster. Only problem is that it sits on the inside of the car on the firewall, not engine bay side!

 

pain in the ass!

Havent long done my heater matrix i did'nt think it was that bad to do once i had out it back together i left my aircon box in but took the rad inside out and left the ecu in the car as i think it works the whole heating system

whats the toilet roll for? incase you s**t yourself :rofl: :mac1:

there are 3 boxes from (left to right )heater motor,aircon box with the matrix in,heater box and controls with the heater matrix..

the all are joined like a train i started by looseing all the bolts on all of them moved the heater motor towards you by pulling the bottom out frist then that gave me more ajustment to move the air con matrix box out a bit futher so you can unclip the main heater box off the aircon box remember the aircon box wont move far as the aircon pipes are still attched on the other side of the bulk head then when you get the heater box to come apart from the aircon box then undo the screws on the heater mairix and the bracket that holds the pipes off you will prob need to remove the heater ecu to get to the screws on the heater pipes also before i forget there is a cable at the back of the heater box that controls the water flow into the matrix disconnect that as its joined the the heater pipes well i hopes this helps a bit prob better if was talkin to you than typing

nah the toilet roll was for when it all goes wrong i could wipe my eyes

  • Author
whats the toilet roll for? incase you s**t yourself :rofl: :mac1:

 

No its masking tape for labeling wires!

  • Author
you talking bout a master cylinder? if so then i get it.

 

cheers.

 

Master cylinder is in the engine bay, booster is on the inside of the firewall opposite the clutch master cyliner and fluid pot.

  • Author

Cheers cbr, ill try again tomorrow.

 

i have not loosened the heater motor box so will do that, sounds like there are a couple of screws I have missed on the heater box.

 

My aircon pump, rad etc is all gone out the engine bay and i think the hoses are just loose, I might remove these totally while I'm at it.

prob worth it whilst your there wire's aint that bad just worst is the big wireing loom that goes from left to right as it tucks back in when you put it all back together as i forgot and had to go back and start again glad i can be of some help...

  • Author

Well my target for today was to get the heater matrix and clutch booster both changed, didnt quite get there tho.

 

Spent about another half and hour trying to get the heater box out. Then a mate comes down and goes it will be the water pipes in the engine bay stopping it. Nar I took them off when I made the loopover pipe. Thought I would check just to be sure and Fook! When my new engine was fitted they must have put some water pipes back on before remembering the loop pipe!

 

Great I thought lets just quickly get them off....

 

Turns out when they were put on the engine would have been out. The screw heads on the hose clips were both facing downwards....

 

Two hours and lots of bendy extensions later the pipes come off and out the heater box pops, easy :dance:

 

Took a couple of looks at it and thought how the hell does the matrix come out then? Further inspections shows it just slides out but that cable on the tap is a bit of a fiddle.

 

Anyhows thats all built back up again now so I started on the clutch booster thinking it would be easy to get out with no dash in.

 

I loosened everything and took out the big piviot bolt etc from the pedal but couldnt get it to budge. I then went and checked the new one for reference and spotted that its bolted in from the engine bay too. Had a look there and saw that its connected directly to the master cylinder so this will have to come off too. :wack:

 

Can anyone give me any pointers here and will I have to bleed my clutch afterwards? I was looking to see what the pedal pulls on to activate the clutch and saw that it all goes through the booster, this will need adjusting to the exact same length as the old one I take it.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=38772&stc=1

 

Mmm, do you think this has been leaking ?! :shock:

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=38773&stc=1

yeah u will need to bleed the clutch but thats easy, just need someone to help you. make sure you dont get any fluid on the body work.

 

damni still got to do my clutch booster how much did ya pay for yours??? new or used?

good blog this :) ive allways said iff my matrix goes bad them ime selling the thing as theres no way on earth ide tackle that being 6 3" and 19 stone :( and its such a complex job i could,nt trust anyone else either to put all the clips back ect, keep up the good work bud

  • Author

The replacement is a good used one, had to buy a conversion kit, ie full gearbox to get one tho!

 

I have the master cylinder from a series 2 car so the bleed nipple is on the cylinder itself, no extra pipework, if its the same as doing breaks then its easy as you say.

 

Is there anything to know about disconnecting the booster from the master cylinder or do i just take off the two bolts engine bay side and pull the cylinder off with pot?

  • Author

If i just undo the two 12mm nuts in the engine bay will the booster slide off the back?

 

Will this cause a fluid leak and how are the booster and the master cylinder connected?

whatever the case it needs to come off anyway, if you need to bleed it again so be it.

 

a chance to get some fresh fluid in there anyway ;)

  • Author

Fluid is 2 months old as had the series 2 master cylinder fitted during the engine rebuild!

 

I'll have a word with the bloke that built it tomorrow :)

  • Author

Well another few hours at it!

 

New clutch booster now installed!

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=38780&stc=1

 

The two 12mm nuts in the engine bay are a proper pain to get to! It took me about an hour with a combination of bendy sockets, bluetac and shredded fingers!

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=38781&stc=1

 

Anyhow the master cylinder came off with no fluid leakage etc, still at the same mark on the pot.

 

Bolted it all back up, checked car was in gear, release hand brake, press clutch pedal with foot, car rolls!

 

Fook me it works and all! Looks like I have managed it without bleeding the fluid as the seal was never breached.

 

Tomorrow I will be putting the heater box back in and fitting the new water pipes, then the engine bay can be tidyed up before the dash goes back.

cool so all u had to do was undo the bolts on the clutch master cylinder then pull it out from the inside?

  • Author

Yep

 

Not easy to get to with the pot on etc, but better than bleeding it again imo

 

Getting the clutch pedal out is quite easy once I unclipped the main wiring loom.

 

I had a look in the engine bay for the air con pipes but they have been removed, just the washing machine type connections on the firewall. I'd like to take the air con matrix out but not sure if its needed for the heater ecu as there is some wiring going to it.

So run me thru that again..... coz i wanna change mine soon (clutch booster) but dont wanna have to take out the whole dash jeez..... What you mean by pot? fluid pot?

  • Author

Yeah, if you took the fluid pot off the bolts would be easier to get to but you would need to bleed it all.

 

If I had to do it again I probably wouldnt take the dash out but I had the heater matrix to do as well, new headunit, gauges and want a general tidy up behind there.

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