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Manual boost control valve


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driftworks do a great mauel boost controller ive had one on my skyline for about 3/4 months now no probs no boost spikes or any thing... had them fitted on a few of my zeds before one for each turbo but a nightmere to set up the same..but can be done..driftworks ones cost 35 quid (blue one)... :hyper:

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manual boost controllers cannot take into account ambient air conditions. It would be fine if you installed it now with this nice cold dense air we have got but come a blistering hot July day (if we ever get one of those again) you will be spiking all over the place.

 

get a Greddy profec. You wont regret it (.........well until you loose you seals becuase of too much enthusiasim)

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  • 1 month later...

Just came across this thread. As im having trouble with setting my boost.

 

am i right in saying that when installing a manual boost controler like the one on ebay, you have to make sure when bringing both side vacume hoses from the boost source to a T piece the length of hose must be exactly the same with each side or one turbo will be boost more or less than the other?

 

??

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me personaly i wouldn't use one ,,have you spoken to geff at zedworld they will tell you how to do it safely ,,, ( mig tips ) 1.0 mm and a 0.8mm will give you a steady 1.3/1.4 bar boost hope this helps :)

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me personaly i wouldn't use one ,,have you spoken to geff at zedworld they will tell you how to do it safely ,,, ( mig tips ) 1.0 mm and a 0.8mm will give you a steady 1.3/1.4 bar boost hope this helps :)

 

 

I take it yours is far from standard !?

 

1.3/1.4 bar (19/20psi) would most definalty not be safe for anyone with stock injectors/intercoolers/turbos/engine !.

 

(and 1.0 or 0.8 will not give you anywhere close to 1.3/1.4 bar..........1.0mm for 1bar and 0.8mm for 1.1 - 1.2 bar typically)

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Well it may differ from car to car, but yes should be around 1 bar for 1mm tip.

the next best thing to a eletro b/c is the tips bud they never change diameter and theres less joints on the piping, dont even consider going for 0.8mm as the hole is so small it can get blocked with somthing the size of an ants *****ck (bad experience talking here mate) and not send the signal to the atcuator making the gate stay closed

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I take it yours is far from standard !?

 

1.3/1.4 bar (19/20psi) would most definalty not be safe for anyone with stock injectors/intercoolers/turbos/engine !.

 

(and 1.0 or 0.8 will not give you anywhere close to 1.3/1.4 bar..........1.0mm for 1bar and 0.8mm for 1.1 - 1.2 bar typically)

apart from k/n filters and exhaust its chipped but haven't looked to see what it is, no boost controler ,and still limited,,,but not for long got a few goodies to go on her....thats why i said i pesonaly wouldn't use one there are proffesionals out there,,and i was talking typicaly

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apart from k/n filters and exhaust its chipped but haven't looked to see what it is, no boost controler ,and still limited,,,but not for long got a few goodies to go on her....thats why i said i pesonaly wouldn't use one there are proffesionals out there,,and i was talking typicaly

 

ok, I was worried you were running around with 20psi on a stock setup..or was recomending it to others.

 

btw - Notice your a fellow SW zed'er ("Hi") your lucky enough to have a 300zx Specialist just down the road form you in Burnham-on-sea. http://www.swzperformance.co.uk

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Would you disconnect the actuator solinoids with tips?

 

ive disconnected mine to keep it stable so the ecu doesnt try to compensate. but i have a manual boost control.

no the good thing with tips is you still retain the "safe boost" unlike a electric b/c

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