Need some assistance,

 

Front web of the crank reads f1101, I assume 'f' means front?

Rear web of the crank reads, upside down!, 100111, where is no 1 cylinder on that?

The block has no 2 stamped for the mains, and the pistons, so thats simple.

 

Checked out Courtisey nissan;

http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32/oe_pistons-rings-rods.html

 

Thats no help as these nubers are stamped in a different position.

 

Anyone confirm for me please??

I personally would'nt bother with the Grades ! The clearance between the biggest and smallest grade are all within the Nissan standard tolerances.

 

All the aftermarket bearings available only come in a standard size for an untouched Crank, plus any engineering shop will fit standard size if you took it to them (or oversized if they had to grind crank ofcourse)

 

I spent hours working out the bloody thing when I did my first engine, and then just went with a set of ACL Race bearings instead.

 

Its the same issue with the SX blocks, and everyone just fits standard size.

didn't Bubuche have issues with this?

I personally would'nt bother with the Grades ! The clearance between the biggest and smallest grade are all within the Nissan standard tolerances.

 

All the aftermarket bearings available only come in a standard size for an untouched Crank, plus any engineering shop will fit standard size if you took it to them (or oversized if they had to grind crank ofcourse)

 

I spent hours working out the bloody thing when I did my first engine, and then just went with a set of ACL Race bearings instead.

 

Its the same issue with the SX blocks, and everyone just fits standard size.

 

Only problem with that is that the grading numbers are there for a reason, I realise if a crank needs a regrind, or bore needs a re bore, you fit oversize, thats simple.

But the grading numbers are there because when the blocks are bored during the production line process, the cutter wears and the bores cut are actually smaller, and the same for the crank.

So, to do the job right, providing there is no regrind, or re bore required, you need to fit the correct graded bearings.

Graded bearings are a waste of time.the difference between them is microns and all machine shops work to thousanths of an inch.and if the crank is used then the grades are of even less use because they were measured and graded when the crank was new.its now done 50000 miles plus so how can they still be relevant now.the japs are very anal about tolerances as all their cars use the grading system.you cant even make bearings within microns.they are mass produced then measured after.

Personal opinion?

My ten pennies worth.and any machine shop youd like to call Lol.you have pm Neil.

I don't really agree with you.

 

I kill 2 engine just because I didn't know about the grade and install the wrong one.

 

For me, the best things to do is to not trust what is stamp on the block or the cranck.

 

Just buy several grades and test them with plastigage. This take way more time and little bit more money but that way you can't make any mistake.