Hi guys,

we are having a few issues with a 1990 TT.

We did alot of research in here and TT.net but still have some questions, and maybe someone can link the problems together etc...

 

MODS:

JWT Stage 3 ECU

JWT Single POP intake

Blitz SBC ID3 boost controller

RPS clutch & Flywheel

 

The car is running the stock exhaust with gutted cats. (Waiting for a SpecialtyZ system; downpipes and cat back.)

 

We tested it with Conzult, everything was fine. Power balance test was ok, and everything else seems normal.

 

SBC PROBLEMS:

First we installed the Blitz ID-3 using this guide from TT.net:

http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=995129&forum=technical&dtSearch=0

 

It says to mount the boost solenoid to the firewall behind the battery, thats what we did. Everything has been hooked up properly and we also installed the power meter ID and hooked it up to the speed wire Pin #53 from the ecu harness. We are experiencing unusual boost spikes. I talked to many people and their settings for 15 LBS are around GAIN: 10-15 and a SET: ~40. However when we have our SET to 35 and whatever GAIN we use it spikes to 15.0 - 15.5. Only when the GAIN is 0 that we dont get any boost spikes at all. These seems like really low numbers. (SET 35 GAIN 0). We set the limiter to 14 and because of the spike while testing it went all the way to 15.6.

 

What is the max boost the stock engine, stock turbo, stock injectors can take for a similar setup. We run on Octane 94.

 

Not sure what could be the problem, Vacuum leaks? Location of the Blitz solenoid module? Where is the best place to mount it? Also do the vacuums need the same exact exact length between the solenoid and each waste gate? Could the exhaust restrict the car too much?

 

We used the option B from that guide and left the stock boost solenoid in place and we just disconnected them.

 

EGR PROBLEM

Once we got the SBC ID 3 installed, we took it for a spin. After around 30-40 mins of driving the check engine light turns showing a EGR System code 32. We double checked all the hoses. Everything seems ok. Not sure what can be the problem. The car is a CALI and use a JWT cali ecu as well. I have been told I could delete the EGR by using a Fed ecu and disconnecting the EGT sensor (They are only on Cal cars). That way the check engine light would dissapear. We dont have any emission test here in quebec so deleting the EGR should not be a problem.

 

RADIATOR:

We also had the Radiator. The core was perfect, but the sides are in plastic and its leaking from where they connect. we tried tighting up the metal clamp and adding sealer but its still leaking. We ordered an AMS radiator with a Z1 solid lower hose. This should fix this problem.

 

LEAKS:

We also had a turbo line and the rear main seal leaking oil. We fixed all that while installing the new RPS clutch and flywheel.

 

Now we have another leak, Its from the passenger side, at the back of the engine. We can hear drops falling then pshhhhhh. I suspect the heater hoses maybe. Another strange thing, when accelerating there is a small rattle that seems to come from behind the dash on the passenger side. Its not very loud but I can hear it well when driving. It started to do that after we installed the SBC I believe. Could it be the pressure in the vacuum that come in from the passenger side fender hole? When detonation happen is it a small noise or its very loud? Just still trying to figure out what could be the problem here.

 

SUSPENSION:

When going over 200 KM/hour and hitting a small bump the rear want to fishtail. Its scary and hard to control. We originally thought the problem could be an alignment. The car is running still on stock suspension. Maybe the problem is the HICAS. Would installing the HICAS remover Stillen kit fix this problem? What else could cause this?

 

This Z is hard to work on, there is not much space under the hood!

:cuss:

 

Thanks

Hi guys,

we are having a few issues with a 1990 TT.

We did alot of research in here and TT.net but still have some questions, and maybe someone can link the problems together etc...

 

MODS:

JWT Stage 3 ECU

JWT Single POP intake

Blitz SBC ID3 boost controller

RPS clutch & Flywheel

 

The car is running the stock exhaust with gutted cats. (Waiting for a SpecialtyZ system; downpipes and cat back.)

 

We tested it with Conzult, everything was fine. Power balance test was ok, and everything else seems normal.

 

SBC PROBLEMS:

First we installed the Blitz ID-3 using this guide from TT.net:

http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=995129&forum=technical&dtSearch=0

 

It says to mount the boost solenoid to the firewall behind the battery, thats what we did. Everything has been hooked up properly and we also installed the power meter ID and hooked it up to the speed wire Pin #53 from the ecu harness. We are experiencing unusual boost spikes. I talked to many people and their settings for 15 LBS are around GAIN: 10-15 and a SET: ~40. However when we have our SET to 35 and whatever GAIN we use it spikes to 15.0 - 15.5. Only when the GAIN is 0 that we dont get any boost spikes at all. These seems like really low numbers. (SET 35 GAIN 0). We set the limiter to 14 and because of the spike while testing it went all the way to 15.6.

 

What is the max boost the stock engine, stock turbo, stock injectors can take for a similar setup. We run on Octane 94.

 

Not sure what could be the problem, Vacuum leaks? Location of the Blitz solenoid module? Where is the best place to mount it? Also do the vacuums need the same exact exact length between the solenoid and each waste gate? Could the exhaust restrict the car too much?

 

We used the option B from that guide and left the stock boost solenoid in place and we just disconnected them.

 

Max boost on that setup - wouldn't go above 15psi=1bar

 

Relocate the Solenoid to under the headlamp panel as this gives shorter hose runs and better wastegate responce. Are you sure you have taken the correct vac feed to the IN port of the solenoid? Should be taken from the INNER metal boost pipes coming from the ICs. All lines must be equal length (feeds to IN port the same and feeds to wastegates from OUT port the same). If all is correct here and you still get spikes then check the wastegate vac lines from the OUT port are holding pressure - they can crack.

 

EGR PROBLEM

Once we got the SBC ID 3 installed, we took it for a spin. After around 30-40 mins of driving the check engine light turns showing a EGR System code 32. We double checked all the hoses. Everything seems ok. Not sure what can be the problem. The car is a CALI and use a JWT cali ecu as well. I have been told I could delete the EGR by using a Fed ecu and disconnecting the EGT sensor (They are only on Cal cars). That way the check engine light would dissapear. We dont have any emission test here in quebec so deleting the EGR should not be a problem.

 

Not sure will investigate when I have the service manual in front of me :)

 

RADIATOR:

We also had the Radiator. The core was perfect, but the sides are in plastic and its leaking from where they connect. we tried tighting up the metal clamp and adding sealer but its still leaking. We ordered an AMS radiator with a Z1 solid lower hose. This should fix this problem.

 

Yes that will cure that one lol

 

LEAKS:

We also had a turbo line and the rear main seal leaking oil. We fixed all that while installing the new RPS clutch and flywheel.

 

Now we have another leak, Its from the passenger side, at the back of the engine. We can hear drops falling then pshhhhhh. I suspect the heater hoses maybe. Another strange thing, when accelerating there is a small rattle that seems to come from behind the dash on the passenger side. Its not very loud but I can hear it well when driving. It started to do that after we installed the SBC I believe. Could it be the pressure in the vacuum that come in from the passenger side fender hole? When detonation happen is it a small noise or its very loud? Just still trying to figure out what could be the problem here.

 

Chances are thats a coolant line running up the back of the block from the drivers side turbo. Pain in the arse to get to unfortunately :(

 

SUSPENSION:

When going over 200 KM/hour and hitting a small bump the rear want to fishtail. Its scary and hard to control. We originally thought the problem could be an alignment. The car is running still on stock suspension. Maybe the problem is the HICAS. Would installing the HICAS remover Stillen kit fix this problem? What else could cause this?

 

This Z is hard to work on, there is not much space under the hood!

:cuss:

 

Thanks

 

HICAS eliminator will not cure that. Its the actuall balljoints and rear steering arms that are the problem which are NOT supplied in the kit. Also worth checking the rear shock absorbers as they can also cause the same problem ;)

 

Hard to work on? Yeah there's not much room under there LOL

 

Good luck :)

Yeah I agree with Duffman :smw:

thanks alot for the reply.

I checked my hoses and they were not the same length.

Also I looked under the left side of the upper plenum, and a small vacuum was disconnected. I fixed that and added a tie wrap on it to make sure it doesnt come off again.

 

Also for the SBC location, maybe I should add rubber washer under so it doesnt vibrate on the firewall. It's pretty annoying. Would it be much better to re install it near the headlight? Hoses would be shorter. By the headlight panel are you talking about the nose panel between both headlights? Just wanted to make sure.

 

I will look over all the suspension components for the rear.

 

thanks

Pat

>> Now we have another leak, Its from the passenger side, at the back of the engine. We can hear drops falling then pshhhhhh.

 

Have you checked it's not just the aircon condensation outlet dripping water on the downpipe?

(small rubber pipe coming out of the firewall, straight above the RH downpipe, or passenger side on a RHD car)

It might be, I started the engine again for a while and couldnt see any leak.

Did that ever happen to you drops from the AC condensation to the exhaust?

I drove the car hard for about 30 mins when that happen with the Temp set to AUTO.

Then when I came back, opened the hood and heard the drops.