atlast my tubs are on, the engines in and running but....... the bloody thing wont go into gear!!! :confused:

its fine when the engine is off but its as stiff as hell when trying to put it into gear whilst she is running :headvswal

ive bled the clutch through (4 pots worth) but still no joy.

does this mean the clutch is knackered, it needs more bleeding or ive fitted it incorrectly??

any help please as ive got major zed withdrawals :bow:

Carry on bleeding the clutch :D Have you drained the system completely and started from fresh?

nope, i havent completely drained it, but i have used around 1/4 litre :confused:

off to the shops to get some more fluid tomorow then, and drain her dry!!

cheers Andy :duffer:

There is also adjustment on the pedal.... worth a look when all else fails

hummmm, when all else fails...........

 

cheers bud

pmsl @ your title!

 

Good luck sorting it anyway! :D

hummmm, when all else fails...........

 

cheers bud

 

 

 

LOL..........every faith in you .... :D

pmsl @ your title!

 

 

i bet you are ...lol....

 

...

cheers guy's......

and thanks wozzer :x: :x: lmao

still no joy with the gear changing.....

 

the system has been completely drained and bled through, no air at all!!!

but still the same, when the clutch is down there is a noise which soulnds like the thrust bearing....

 

could it be that the slave cylinder rubbers have worn alowing the fluid to pass straight over them????

when all else fails

 

 

Cough cough... could be the slave piston isn't getting it's full travel..

 

 

If fluid was leaking past seals you would have some visible signs of a leak

Maybe time to look at replacing master cylinder and slave cylinder - don't know why but they have a nasty habit of going straight after a rebuild. Seen it more than a few times :confused: Start with the slave....

how does the peddal feel, is it spongy ?

did you split the g/box from the engine whilst carrying out the repairs?

you can get a nismo longer travel slave cylinder if you need it, normally when fitting paddle clutches a longer travel slave is needed, due to the thinner plates on the clutch surface.

 

or use a nut on the end to see if the extra pressure applied to the fork makes a differance

 

it could be a broken pivot ball.

Just replace the pushrod with threaded rod of the correct length if you need more throw ;)

how does the peddal feel, is it spongy ?

did you split the g/box from the engine whilst carrying out the repairs?

i did split the box and the pedal feels solid,

 

 

 

 

the engines been out for a while in the cold environment of my garage, i was wondering weather the cluth plate had seized on the housing. theres one thing im gona try tomorow......

ive been told if you keep the clutch down, put it in first gear then start the engine, wait till she gets nice and warm, bring it up to high revs and let out the clutch. now this is what ive been told by an old work college of my old mans. by doing this it should relesae the cluch with an almighty bang and free its self!!!!

 

eather that or blow the bloddy thing to bits :x:

 

but before i do that, im gona try every other possible avenue you guys have come up with

i did split the box and the pedal feels solid,

 

 

 

 

the engines been out for a while in the cold environment of my garage, i was wondering weather the cluth plate had seized on the housing. theres one thing im gona try tomorow......

ive been told if you keep the clutch down, put it in first gear then start the engine, wait till she gets nice and warm, bring it up to high revs and let out the clutch. now this is what ive been told by an old work college of my old mans. by doing this it should relesae the cluch with an almighty bang and free its self!!!!

 

eather that or blow the bloddy thing to bits :x:

 

but before i do that, im gona try every other possible avenue you guys have come up with

 

Not a bad idea tbh - seen that once before on a rover 600 but never on a Z...... Don't blame me though if you get your legs chopped off by bits of clutch cover plate :D

seen people put the plate in the wrong way and getting the same problem.

 

On the other hand it could be as you say and the plates seized on the splines, and what you say may work

 

....be warned though ive seen a lad trying to cure the problem youve got, on a tractor by starting it up in gear the thing fookin took off and smashed into a truck at the other side of the workshops which was up on stands with the wheels off (knocked it up of the stands, then landed back on them, lucky cause there was a guy half under it at the time)

 

turns out the lad had fitted the friction plate back to front!

seen people put the plate in the wrong way and getting the same problem.

 

On the other hand it could be as you say and the plates seized on the splines, and what you say may work

 

....be warned though ive seen a lad trying to cure the problem youve got, on a tractor by starting it up in gear the thing fookin took off and smashed into a truck at the other side of the workshops which was up on stands with the wheels off (knocked it up of the stands, then landed back on them, lucky cause there was a guy half under it at the time)

 

turns out the lad had fitted the friction plate back to front!

 

Good point! lol

just to close this thread..............

 

 

SHES BACK ON THE ROAD AND RUNS LIKE A DREAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

after all that it was just the plate stuck solid to the housing

put it in gear clutch down started the enginge and off she hoped! then slowly came to a holt!

 

JOB DONE :nana2: :nana2: :nana2:

great news bud, glad you sorted it..