Guys,

 

swapped our my duff autobox a few weeks ago..

Swaped for another Auto-box and Torque Converter from a low mileage 90' model

 

However the car does not accelerate anywhere near as hard as it used to.. previously .. I just needed to tap the accelerator and wow..!!

 

Re-checked the fluid level a few days ago and a top-up did make the box change gear better now seems more like the normal gear changing (before top up this was over 1-2 seconds from selecting D to feeling anything at the wheels)

 

Once the car gets going the power is there but not on launch..

(can't even spin the wheels... if you can beleive this!!)

 

Any Ideas.. (oh also brand new strainer, gasket done before install..)

 

cheerz

 

B. (flikz)

May have blown the Auto ecu fuse or engine cont fuse! i did this twice without even knowing untill i drove it of course.

May have blown the Auto ecu fuse or engine cont fuse! i did this twice without even knowing untill i drove it of course.

 

Where are the fuses located (fingers crossed)..

 

I had a feeling that I may have needed to re-set something after the new box went in (similar to an ECU re-set)..??

 

Thanks for the quick reply :hyper:

 

Brian. (flikz)

The Engine Cont fuse is in the fuse box behind the passenger headlamp, the auto fuse in in the lovely place next to the gas pedal Lol

The Engine Cont fuse is in the fuse box behind the passenger headlamp, the auto fuse in in the lovely place next to the gas pedal Lol

 

Found the Cont fuse (not blown)

I will look out the manual and find which one is Auto Box fuse in the other fuse panel.. thanks (Z)master..!

 

 

Brian (flikz)

No worries! Check you have 12volts and 5 volts going to the gearbox ECU

Fuse box translation here if you need it !

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=66739&referrerid=3590

 

Alan......

No worries! Check you have 12volts and 5 volts going to the gearbox ECU

 

Not the fuses both are fine.. :confused:

 

Could the torque converter be an issue..??

 

Random Question here.. Boost leak..? could this be an issue of poor launch..?

 

cheerz

 

B.

Fuse box translation here if you need it !

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=66739&referrerid=3590

 

Alan......

Hi Alan,

 

thanks for the translation.. I saved this a wee while ago.. when I needed it for another issue (seems all we have.. great day like this should be cruising the ZED down the "strathy"..!!)

 

We have'nt met yet..

Big Steven (BigSSS) from newarthill helped me with the tranny install (when I say "helped" read "fitted the tranny") :hyper:

 

Any pointers anyone??

 

B.

Hi Alan,

 

thanks for the translation.. I saved this a wee while ago.. when I needed it for another issue (seems all we have.. great day like this should be cruising the ZED down the "strathy"..!!)

 

We have'nt met yet..

Big Steven (BigSSS) from newarthill helped me with the tranny install (when I say "helped" read "fitted the tranny") :hyper:

 

Any pointers anyone??

 

B.

 

Possible meet coming up if you are interested in August, but back on topic.

Would it maybe help disconnecting the battery for a while and see if it resets the g/box ECU ??

 

Alan.....

Or maybe even try this;

 

90+ 300ZX Automatic Transmission Self -Diagnostic Procedure.

1. Have the engine at normal operating temperature, in PARK with the overdrive switch on.

2. Start engine. The AT light should go out after 2 sec.

3. Turn the ignition off.

4. Move selector to drive “D” by using the Push Release button.

5. Set overdrive switch to OFF.

6. Wait 2 seconds and turn ignition switch ON.7. Wait 2 seconds and move selector to “2”.

8. Set overdrive switch to ON.

9. Move selector to “1”.

10. Set overdrive switch to OFF.

11. Depress accelerator pedal fully and release it.

12. The codes will begin to flash.There’s one long flash that signifies the start of the sequence.Following should be 10 short flashes. Then it repeats.

All 10 flashes the same = No error codes detected.

1st flash longer than others = Revolution sensor is shorted or disconnected.

2nd flash longer than others = Speed sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected.

3rd flash longer than others = Throttle sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected.

4th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid “A” circuit is shorted or disconnected.

5th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid “B” circuit is shorted or disconnected.

6th flash longer than others = Overrun clutch solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected.

7th flash longer than others = Lock-up solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected.

8th flash longer than others = Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or A/T control unit power source circuit is damaged.

9th flash longer than others = Engine revolution signal circuit is shorted or disconnected.

10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected.

All the same with no long start flash = Battery low, been disconnected, or control unit has just been reconnected.

 

Alan..................

Alan,

 

I will try the diagnostic and see what we get..

 

Not sure if I will get anything.. as the box is quite good... changes gear when it should, kicks down.. locks out the gears.. goes throught the motions as Auto boxes do.. it just does it slower (if this sound right)

 

Meet in August.. Sure...

(on hols for a wee bit of August come back on the 6th).. that said I will be home a few days before then (thinkin' about work)

 

cheerz

 

B.

Ive had 2 auto Z's and neither would spin the wheels on launch. My current Z is a SWB running 1bar boost and auto line controller, really does go like fook but doesn't do anything for the first 2 seconds of pulling away - I mean about equal to a ford escort upto 15 mph. After that I can give it half throttle (any more and it spins) then floor it on the change up to 2nd. Even with the 2 second launch I still got a 12.9 @120 1/4 according to my Gtech! So yours sounds normal I reckon.

when you blew your autobox did you flush the oil cooler before refitting the new box?

Ive had 2 auto Z's and neither would spin the wheels on launch. My current Z is a SWB running 1bar boost and auto line controller, really does go like fook but doesn't do anything for the first 2 seconds of pulling away - I mean about equal to a ford escort upto 15 mph. After that I can give it half throttle (any more and it spins) then floor it on the change up to 2nd. Even with the 2 second launch I still got a 12.9 @120 1/4 according to my Gtech! So yours sounds normal I reckon.

 

Trev,

Do you reckon my last auto-box was uprated..? because she was scary even at launch.. Just as you describe the the car would spin almost in any gear if you put the foot down.. the box would drop down so quickly and bite you if you were'nt careful.

 

I have an uprated BlitZ access ECU and .8mm boost jets (14/15 psi) installed.. with good tubs.. so the power is there,, may be I'm just being fussy..

 

I always liked the wheel-spin risk..made me drive a little better if you know what I mean..

 

Is there anything I can do to juice up this box.. or check on..

 

cheerz

Brian

when you blew your autobox did you flush the oil cooler before refitting the new box?

 

Did'nt "flush" the cooler M8 :confused:

Still have the integral one part of the radiator... the radiator went "pop" same day of the box being fitted to the car.... drove about 5miles (home) before the rad went..

The rad was on the way out.. and the plastic perrished when I re-fitted the top-hose..

 

 

Fitted exchange TT rad this week so the car has only done 30/50 mile over this weekend.. (thanks BIGSSS)

 

I do feel that line pressure or A/T ECU or Torque Converter (swapped this along with the box) is not quite to par.. or as I said above.. am I expecting too much

 

thanks for the input guys..

 

all the best

 

Brian

Silly question maybe but are you sure its pulling away if first gear?

hold function on all the time?

:)

hold function on all the time?

 

The "Hold" button switches ON & OFF fine (including the hold-light on the dash).. not quite sure how you would tell if it is stuck at "ON" when the dash ligh is going on/off as you depress the button.??

 

The gears all change when they should.. (rev heavy they stay slightly longer in the gear..then go up) .. take off the gas slightly and re apply some gas and the gears go up.. Floor the gas and the gear drops down one (or is it two in kick-down mode)

 

all acts the way my old auto box did.. just "sluggish" somehow. (?)

 

Defo drives away in first.. I can feel and count the gear changes..

 

thanks again for you thoughts guys.. :)

 

 

Is there anything I can do to juice up this box.. or check on..

 

cheerz

Brian

Brian, the way you describe it your box is operating perfectly. If you find a way to to make it pull away spinning the wheels let me know! I don't mean giving it half throttle and brake at standstill though cos that's asking for trouble (just incase anyone suggests that).

 

Old auto's are always slower 0-60 because they only have 3 gears and 1st gear has to take you upto about 45mph or whatever it is. From 20mph upwards they're just as quick as manuals if not slightly quicker.

 

Anyway mines got an HKS line controller linked to the ecu to up the fluid pressure in the box at kickdown, and it changes gear really sharply even at 7k rpm under 1bar boost, unlike a standard box which would drag the revs out for a second or so before changing up. But still it launches like an escort! So what the hell was your last box if it would spin launch? Do the fast road boxes still have 3 gears and overdrive? I can only think a 4 or 5 speed box would be geared to pull away that quick and change into 2nd at say 25 not 45 like ours.

If the torque converter is faulty this would cause a similar problem. Difficult to say from here but, and I am having to think back many years here, inside the converter there is a "stator" I think its called,and in the old days sometimes these would do something, and I can remember what, but that would stop the converter working properly.

 

Sort of the opposite to a "High Stall" converter. (do a search on Google). Vague I know, but maybe it will point you in a direction that helps.

 

And I had a 300tt Auto that would pull well from a standstill.

By the description it sounds like your previous box was probably upgraded or had a fault causing the line pressure to be too high

 

your current box:

 

keep checking the ATF level for a while as this is usually the most common fault.

 

Does the AT light on the dash blink when the ignition is turned on ? (this indicates a fault)

if the AT light doesn't come on at all, it might indicate a problem with the power to the ECU

 

Or have it checked with a conzult

It also may be neccessary to check the line pressure as it may be too low, causing sluggish behaviour

Without trying to start a fight, :-). The line pressure will make no difference, IMHO, once first gear is engaged inside the box the clutch's are energised (for want of a better word) and thats that, apart from the converter there is now a direct link to the back axle with the engine.

 

The clutch is either engaged properly or its slipping, there is no middle ground. A slipping clutch in an auto does not long at all.

 

The fluid being low is also not going to cause this problem unless the car is falling out of gear, a result of loss of pressure due to low fluid.

 

I still think, that everything else being equal its a converter fault, or he had a different/modified one before. I wonder are they different for N/A to TT?

 

As I said, not looking or a fight.

Without trying to start a fight, :-). The line pressure will make no difference, IMHO, once first gear is engaged inside the box the clutch's are energised (for want of a better word) and thats that, apart from the converter there is now a direct link to the back axle with the engine.

 

The clutch is either engaged properly or its slipping, there is no middle ground. A slipping clutch in an auto does not long at all.

 

The fluid being low is also not going to cause this problem unless the car is falling out of gear, a result of loss of pressure due to low fluid.

 

I still think, that everything else being equal its a converter fault, or he had a different/modified one before. I wonder are they different for N/A to TT?

 

As I said, not looking or a fight.

 

Mark..

No offence taken M8 just good debate.. I want all points of view here..

 

I now feel that my other box was up-rated.. and this box is acting OK(normal).. It's only the launch I feel is sluggish (and poss the gear changes are more "relaxed" but not to the extent that it bothers me).. On my last box the gear change was much more sure footed.. you could feel the gear-change throught the pedals

 

You may be right about 3 gears(and reverse) as I was sure on my last box when you "kicked-down" the box dropped 2-gears(??) possibley the last box had more gears (92' model) on this box it feels like it drops down 1-gear (90' model) .. although this may depend on the speed I'm doing when I "kick-down" I suppose..

 

Good point about checkig the ATF.. as the box was much worse before i gave her a top-up early this week.. My house is on a slight incline (read "hill")

and I'm not 100% the fluid level is bang on..

 

Also good point about the Torque converter.. (came with threplacment box) I can't offer any assurances as to its state... May get a hold of a known "working" TC and install to compare "like for like"..

 

Flying to Germany in a couple of hours so I will take to the car to a level raod on my return next-week and check the fulid once more..

 

again thanks for your comments..

 

cheerz

 

B. (flikz)

By the description it sounds like your previous box was probably upgraded or had a fault causing the line pressure to be too high

 

your current box:

 

keep checking the ATF level for a while as this is usually the most common fault.

 

Does the AT light on the dash blink when the ignition is turned on ? (this indicates a fault)

if the AT light doesn't come on at all, it might indicate a problem with the power to the ECU

 

Or have it checked with a conzult

It also may be neccessary to check the line pressure as it may be too low, causing sluggish behaviour

 

 

Guys,

 

sorry it took so long to post again..

 

Took on-board you comments re my replacment auto-box..

 

I re-checked and topped up my ATF (for the second time since fitting the box 4-weeks ago) last weekend... and hey presto.. :hyper: much sharper reactions in getting power to the wheels when taking off and crisper gear changing...

 

My ATF must still have been on the border line.. how much AFT does the box need..? the replacment box must have been almost empty before fitting it..

I am on my second 5Ltr container..?? ... no leaks ... bone dry under the car

 

Anyways... much happier... :cool:

 

thanks again for your input guys

 

regards

 

Brian

(flikz)

Have you checked tps setting ?? as if its not in the right range it will effect gear changes, should be around 0.45 on multi meter