can some one give me the pro's and con's of this kind of up-grading ..

 

many thank's wozza..

 

..

FIRST AND FORMOST, a stage is not a set number, if you just have headers you are not a Stage 5 Z, you would be still a stage 1.

 

the number of the stage is the number of power prducing mods you have.

 

IE: intake and exhaust: stage 2.

ecu and headers : stage 2.

cam and exhaust : stage 2.

any combo of X power mods = X.

 

 

some ppl count the light parts as stages, some count them a "+'s". some ppl count 2 "Xs" as 1 stage.

 

some say stage are over rated.

 

these are set up in the order that will help out the most.

Hp numbers are estimated and dependig on parts and condetion of the car, results will vary.

 

 

1. Intake (3-5 HP) $100-200

2. Exhaust (10-15 HP) $500-1200

3. ECU (7-15hp) $550+

stillen and JWT are the same thing. no differance

4. S-AFC/AFR air fuel controllers. (depend on dyno tuneing with wide band O2 sensor, up to 10-15hp) $300+

5. Headers (15-20 HP, so stillen claims) $650

6. Cams (7-10 HP claimed) $550 works well with port and polished heads, but labor and ect.. makes bang for the buck low. much better HP gains when using N20

and oh course you can go with N20.

prices and hp very with set up and kit.

 

lighter parts do not ADD HP but free up hp from less rotational mas on the drive train

 

add anytime. Underdrive Crank Pulley (7-12 HP) $150-200

add anytime. 1 piece steel/Al drive shaft (7-15hp) $300+

add with clutch change/rearmain seal replacement. AL flywheel for MT (7-15hp) $350+

 

 

also befor adding too much, you might want to do a brake upgrade, going fast is great but if you can't stop, what good is it?

 

slotted and or cross drilled rotors $70-120 each

metal pads about $70-100 a set

stainless steel brained lines about $100 a set

 

and also some suspension work

 

springs $150-400 a set

struts $50-120 each

coil over(strut spring set) $1200+

sways $0-200

Sturt tower braces $90- 300 each

Adj suspension parts $$$$$

 

 

the price's are in $$$$$$ but it's the Thoery...

 

..

bump..anyone ?????????

 

..

can some one give me the pro's and con's of this kind of up-grading ..

 

many thank's wozza....

 

You'll find for cost/hp gain it would be cheaper to do the TT engine conversion.

 

..

FIRST AND FORMOST, a stage is not a set number, the number of the stage is the number of power prducing mods you have.

 

This bit of info is wrong. A proper Stage 1 engine would have had:-

 

1. Induction kit

2. Tubular manifolds

3. Mild port and polish

4. Mild road cam

5. 20 thou head skim

6. lightened and balanced bottom end

7. Tri-angle valve seat cut

 

Stage 2

 

Would start with 1. 2. 6.and 7. from stage 1 but include:-

 

1. Larger inlet and exhaust valves

2. FAST road cam

3. Higher rate valve springs

4. 40 tho head skim

5. Gas flowed port and polish

6. In-line bore of the block

7. ECU upgrade with full dyno re-mapping.

8. Lightened flywheel

 

Stage 3.

 

Would add :-

 

1. Race cam

2. Re shaping combustion chamber to improve air/fuel mixture, combustion and evacuation of burnt gasses

3. Increased displacement etc.

 

And the list goes on until you get to Stage 5 which is a full race engine.

 

Modern N/a need £1000s spent on them for big HP gains. Cost verse HP gain makes turbo conversion a more viable option.

 

As for the Brakes and suspension upgrades well you can never go wrong with these upgrades.