Hello,

What circuits do the Engine Cont fuse protect or what circuits will be affected if the Fuse blows.

alternater battery light

alternater battery light

I have found if it is blown it also affects supply to the Auto Ecu? anything else like Hicas,Engine Ecu,Boost gauge circuit?

type in cont fuse in search gives a few faults like yours possibly the harness or still the alternater

type in cont fuse in search gives a few faults like yours possibly the harness or still the alternater

Done this already? Not much found :)

have you done anything electrical recently or ripped any thing electrical out how long before it blows the fuse

Will check the service manual tomorrow :)

have you done anything electrical recently or ripped any thing electrical out how long before it blows the fuse

Only upgraded the suspension to a harder Tein setup :cool:

The fuse only blows since this though and no wiring would have been damaged.

The fuse Only blows when i accelorate hard or if i turn hard.

I have checked various electrical looms including the gearbox loom to see if it was pinched or damaged and thats ok.

I have also checked the Alternator loom and thats ok.

I think it may be shock/ vibration related possibly as it only started after the suspension upgrade.

Alternator charge voltage does not exceed 14volt's although i have as yet to check the Ampage.

The only looming i have not checked is the under dash looms.

According to the service manual it feed the ECU, bulb check relay and the boost sensor (inner wing next to brake booster). Try disconnecting the boost sensor (electrical connector not vac hose) and see if it still does it. If not then it could be a fault in the main loom causing the ECU to put extra load on the supply...

According to the service manual it feed the ECU, bulb check relay and the boost sensor (inner wing next to brake booster). Try disconnecting the boost sensor (electrical connector not vac hose) and see if it still does it. If not then it could be a fault in the main loom causing the ECU to put extra load on the supply...

Cheers Andy ;)

I have also noticed when the Engine cont fuse blows the Gearbox misses First gear and starts from Second instead? Like when you have the Hold botton on?

The Engine also Idle's so sweet at 750 Rpm approx without a flutter but as soon as you put the fuse back in or replace it the Engine picks up and Idles at 1100 rpm and has always done this since i have owned the car i have tried everything possible to get this Auto J-spec to Idle at 750-800 rpm (Even Another Engine :mac1: )but it just compensates for it as soon as you reconnect the connector for the Variable Idle solenoid :headvswal

It idles so sweet and low with that darn fuse out i get so tempted to leave it out but i know i will end up with a flat battery eventually if i do that:D

Also forgot to add there are no vacuum leaks that could cause the High RPM been all through this over three times.

That car needs a conzult mate....

That car needs a conzult mate....

I know it would be the third time in Two years :D the last two times i borrowed one :o

and i have a laptop here waiting for it too but no lead or software as yet :headvswal as i keep putting it off to buy something else :D

Someone was selling theirs not too long ago? Check out the forsale forum :)

Shit the bed! Just had a closer look at the service manual to see what this actually does. It makes out at first that its the supply to the ECU but thats not the case obviously if the engine stays running. So, further investigation show that you will lose the following if that fuse is blown:

 

EGR Control solenoid valve

Both VTC solenoids

AAC valve (idle valve ;) hint hint)

AIV Solenoid Control Valve

Both Wastegate Valve Control Solenoids

Fast idle control solenoid valve

Both O2 sensors

 

So its kinda pretty important then :D

 

So if its blowing when you boot it, I'd be looking around the wastegate valve control solenoids ;) Try disconnecting them see if it does it then.

 

On another note, if your idle is 750rpm with the yellow connector off then the base idle is too high - auto should be set to around 700rpm with the gearbox in neutral...

Shit the bed! Just had a closer look at the service manual to see what this actually does. It makes out at first that its the supply to the ECU but thats not the case obviously if the engine stays running. So, further investigation show that you will lose the following if that fuse is blown:

 

EGR Control solenoid valve

Both VTC solenoids

AAC valve (idle valve ;) hint hint)

AIV Solenoid Control Valve

Both Wastegate Valve Control Solenoids

Fast idle control solenoid valve

Both O2 sensors

 

So its kinda pretty important then :D

 

So if its blowing when you boot it, I'd be looking around the wastegate valve control solenoids ;) Try disconnecting them see if it does it then.

 

On another note, if your idle is 750rpm with the yellow connector off then the base idle is too high - auto should be set to around 700rpm with the gearbox in neutral...

Yes i had a feeling it had more to do with something else hence the engine still runs but various sensors are turned off and idle drops to manual setting and smokes :mac1:

I need small hand to disconnect the Wastgate solenoids! Do you know anyone?? :D

I wish i had bypassed them now when i had a chance :headvswal

They're fairly easily accessible mate - black square connectors on the turbo hard pipes that run along the side of the plenum....

They're fairly easily accessible mate - black square connectors on the turbo hard pipes that run along the side of the plenum....

Not with my hands :D :rofl:

I know what you mean though :D Cheers