Hello everybody, (Hi Dr Nick!)

 

I am going to have my rear HICAs ball joints replaced because I've got a bit of play in the rear wheels. :nono:

 

I would quite like to get the HICAS eliminated at the same time.

 

Can anyone recommend a supplier/manufacturer?

Is there much difference between costs and performance of different makes?

 

Thanks, Mike...

I have a SE eliminator bar, Never used as it took em that long to get it to me that I bought a Stillen. The SE is lightweight and similar to the SPL (but its silver not black)

 

£130

Kazzama are good and come with caps to cap pipes some dont .They are around £80-£100 driftworks did sell them but they dont have them on there site anymore im sure a trader on here can get on for you.Bascically a bar is just a bar theres not much to them.Make sure your hub end joints are ok or you will still have play .

Just get underneath and weld anything that moves - sorted! :D

Just get underneath and weld anything that moves - sorted! :D

 

:headvswal :headvswal :headvswal

 

Thats sums up Your approach to steering geometry. Doesn't it Chris

Kazzama are good and come with caps to cap pipes some dont .They are around £80-£100 driftworks did sell them but they dont have them on there site anymore im sure a trader on here can get on for you.Bascically a bar is just a bar theres not much to them.Make sure your hub end joints are ok or you will still have play .

Hopefully the hub end joints? will be sorted at the same time but I think all the play is in the ball joints.

Just get underneath and weld anything that moves - sorted! :D

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

 

I have a SE eliminator bar, Never used as it took em that long to get it to me that I bought a Stillen. The SE is lightweight and similar to the SPL (but its silver not black)

£130

That price sounds OK but I am concerned about the clearance with exhausts. Does this ever cause a problem? Can you tell from this photo if there will be any issues?

Thanks again, Mike...

That price sounds OK but I am concerned about the clearance with exhausts. Does this ever cause a problem? Can you tell from this photo if there will be any issues?

.

It sits higher up than the exhausts, and takes up same amount of space as the original hicas rack.

It sits higher up than the exhausts, and takes up same amount of space as the original hicas rack.

sweet. thanks legrath.

 

Mark, the bar that you have for sale, do I still need to replace the ball joints?

You must replace the ball joints on all bars, as the bar just joins the rods firmly to the chassis. If the joints have play then it wont be firm.

sweet. thanks legrath.

 

Mark, the bar that you have for sale, do I still need to replace the ball joints?

 

If your going to do this then you really should replaced hub rod ends. The Eliminator comes with ajustable rods and rose joints on the eliminator end. There is no reason why you couldn't get rose joint rod ends for the hubs.

Aurora do every size you could want.

diddnt se make a bar with rose jointed arms built in to the lockbar.

Now I'm even more confused!

Most lock bars use the standard arms and balljoints [under the gaiters ]and use the stock balljoints which are pressed into the alloy rear hubs .But i think se nissan [nistec]made some one off lock bars which done away with the standard rods and use rose joints and new rods , theres a pic on here somewhere of one i think it was for sale.

As you can see the main eliminator bar bolts via the large holes on the two top brackets onto the subframe. The 2 arms with the rose joint ends are bolted (using the bolts in the picture) to the ends of the eliminator. The exposed threaded end would then thread into the Rod ends that are bolted onto the hubs. These ends have a large eye with a pressed bush and this is where your will get play. Buy replacing the hub rod ends with the same type of rod ends that are in the SE rods you will eliminate any chance of play in future.

 

Does that help.

As you can see the main eliminator bar bolts via the large holes on the two top brackets onto the subframe. The 2 arms with the rose joint ends are bolted (using the bolts in the picture) to the ends of the eliminator. The exposed threaded end would then thread into the Rod ends that are bolted onto the hubs. These ends have a large eye with a pressed bush and this is where your will get play. Buy replacing the hub rod ends with the same type of rod ends that are in the SE rods you will eliminate any chance of play in future.

 

Does that help.

 

Do you know of anywhere you can get a solid joint to go into the hub so you could eliminate play at that end as well.

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1005285

 

Interesting :)

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=1005285

 

Interesting :)

 

Very nice link.

 

Why does he build the bar in that link, when the toe-rods are attached to the subframe? To strengthen the two points on the subframe? Doeas an N/A have this strengthening? Anyone got a pic of an N/A to compare?

Very nice link.

 

Why does he build the bar in that link, when the toe-rods are attached to the subframe? To strengthen the two points on the subframe? Doeas an N/A have this strengthening? Anyone got a pic of an N/A to compare?

 

 

If you look at the pics of where he has welded the washer over the slot, you will see the bracket welded on in the factory for the hicas mounting. The NA has a similar bracket but longer and goes over the point where the washer is welded so the NA toe arms can be bolted between two peices of metal, he has made a firm and solid point to bolt the toe arms in otherwise the bolt mounting them would only have one fixed point and be able to move.

 

I had all this going on in my head to do mine but just a little more elaborate. That simplifies things alot and makes it look alot easier.

 

Nice link Duffman once again.

If you look at the pics of where he has welded the washer over the slot, you will see the bracket welded on in the factory for the hicas mounting. The NA has a similar bracket but longer and goes over the point where the washer is welded so the NA toe arms can be bolted between two peices of metal, he has made a firm and solid point to bolt the toe arms in otherwise the bolt mounting them would only have one fixed point and be able to move.

 

I had all this going on in my head to do mine but just a little more elaborate. That simplifies things alot and makes it look alot easier.

 

Nice link Duffman once again.

 

Does anyone have a picture of this N/A bracket to compare to the one the guy made in Andy's link? Purely out of interest.

Sorry I do have a pic but you can't see the bracket, I know Slick Pete has his subframe out maybe he will email you a pic.