Right, on way home from work yesterday, travelled about as mile the car just suddenly started dying, so I pulled over and it was idling wery lumpy and irratically bouncing between 800 - 1200 rpm, so after about 1/2 hour of wiggling connector blocks around to no avail I tried to limp home, on the way home if I tried to pass 2k revs it would judder and stall, so had to keep well below 2k.

 

This morning I was out with the wd40 and a small terminal flathead screwdriver, and cleaned up the connectors on the PTU, TPS, and the E.C.U. Water Temperature Sensor connector, but still no difference.

 

So I started to look at the maf, I disconnected it with the engine idling and made no difference at all, I think I was expecting it to just stall, but it didn't, it just kept on idling irratically as it had done before.

 

Could I have found my bogey, does this sound like the maf has gone, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

 

Anyone?

It sounds like maf problem. Did you check ECU error codes?

Deffinately sound like a mass air flow sensor fault, your car may have gone into service mode when a fault appeared aka 'get you home mode'.

 

Check your flashers, as a quick fix you could wipe the stored faults on the ecu and restart the car this can work on one off faults, otherwise get your bgb and multimetre out and test the maf for faults

So when you say wipe the stored faults, does this mean to disconnect power to the ecu for a short period then reconnect, ie remove efi fuse or disconnect battery for a few mins?

 

Then if problem persists seek new maf?

Also how you go about checking ecu error codes?

Ok, I have been at the car again, this time when I disconnected the maf with the engine running it did stall, I'm also getting smell of fuel and missing, bad missing.

 

I have disconnected the battery for a few mins also, dont know if this clears the ecu or not?

 

So symtoms are:

 

Erratic idling, revs dropping almost stalling and sounds like its missing.

Airflow meter buggered. Classic symptom is rev limit of 2k....

Is it a fault that you can see or you cant see?

 

Just I ask as I've been looking through to the filament type thing in the tube and looks all intact, or doesn't that matter?

Its usually a dry joint in the rectangular box on top - the part that the connector attatches to :)

fixable if cracked open, or is it a new one?

fixable if cracked open, or is it a new one?

 

My opinion is that get new one. MAF sensor is the mother of all sensors that engine runs ok.

Ok thanks

Right then I'll get a new MAF.

 

Was just thinking, couldn't be the sparkplugs or anything daft like that could it? I had a look of them, its got iridium plugs fitted, dont know how old they are tho.

Ok then, today I went out and started the car and it idled fine, so I left it to idle until the revs dropped to 800 or so, and still was ok, no irratic idling or anything that happened yesterday, so went out for a drive and covered 5 miles at peak temperature, drove nice and easy, then took it up right through the rev range, heavy and light acceleration and hitting max boost without no problems at all.

 

Yesterday I cleaned up all connectors on everything that matters, and sprayed them up with WD40, when I'd finished it made no difference at all, so thought to looking at the maf, so was going to leave it until I could get a new part.

 

So unless it has sorted itself out, or that WD40 has set in nicely and done the job I dont know.

 

So I'm happy that Zed is sorted, but a bit unsure why or how?

I think I need a maf again.

 

Not sure what I did last time, The engine was idling really lumpy and sounded like it was missing badly and very juddery, also wouldn't pass 2000 revs at all, so I disconnected the IC, TPS, the maf connector and the ECU water temp sensor, cleaned them up with WD40 then reconnected, also disconnected the battery in an attempt to reset the ECU, then restarted the engine and was still not running right.

 

Do these sound like symptoms of a knackered maf?

 

The next day I started the engine and it was running mint without fault, So I assumed that the WD40 had a chance to set in overnight as seemed like the ONLY explanation as my first thoughts were the maf, but next day was running mint, if maf was knacked it wouldn't have, or would it??

 

So does this sound like the maf playing up?

 

Do mafs play up at all, or just stop working dead?

 

Am I barking up the wrong tree thinking it's a maf I need, as I dont want to go out and buy a maf, as they're expensive only to find it's something else.

 

When it runs it runs well, so thats ignition items out, as when things like that go, they go, thats why I'm thinking the maf.

 

What I'd like is if I knew someone with a 300ZX TT local, I could try their maf on mine and see how it runs, then I'd know for sure.

 

So does anyone know anyone with a 300ZX TT in tyne and wear area that can help?

 

:confused:

my car would idle fine when my maf burnt out? Just would mis and hesitate above 3k rpm

 

i swap tested with a maf from an na and it drive fine, first thing you should try imo

Sounds different to what mines doing, mines kinda missing, hesitating, irratic revs on idling, it will move but very juddery and won't pass 2000rpm at all, revs drop off at exactly 2000rpm.

i have a spare maf, not sure of the condition of it, but i wouldnt even dare mess on with my maf as its the third ive had on so far so i aint taking no chances, will be at the japtuner meet on the 3rd of dec if thats any good

 

or if ya want it quicker i finish work at about 2 tmorrow you could come and try my spare maf then, i will pm my number to you on japnortheast and give me a ring tomorrow after 2 and i will give you my address

Cheers boyo

ooops japnortheast is currently off line

 

will try japtuner

Any chance I can nip over tonight matey for it? Needthis sorting like yesterday lol