Is it possible for the air to get into the clutch system even if there are no leaks? The oil measurment is the same so it's not leaking.

I've changed the slave cylinder and replaced the clutch hose with Smithys performance one but there is still air getting into the system somewhere.

I MUST HAVE BLED IT TWENTY TIMES NOW.

 

Does anyone know where the master cylinder might be letting the air in? as I can't see it being anything else :S

Any help and advice is appreciated.

Checked the seals on the reservoir?

have you checked the cap is air tight?

what kind of oil did you use ?

 

under no circumstances use DOT 5 or 5.1 and preferably no DOT 4 either, as it will make the rubber piston cups swell

 

 

In this case the air will leak along the cups and you can bleed forever, but never get it to work right

 

Only solution then is to replace/rebuild both the MC and SC.

what kind of oil did you use ?

 

under no circumstances use DOT 5 or 5.1 and preferably no DOT 4 either, as it will make the rubber piston cups swell

 

 

In this case the air will leak along the cups and you can bleed forever, but never get it to work right

 

Only solution then is to replace/rebuild both the MC and SC.

 

I used Halfords universal brake and clutch fluid DOT4.

 

have you checked the cap is air tight?

 

The cap on my zed just slots in (i think this is normal) and it seems to be air tight as I can hear the tiny bit of air hiss out when I push it back in to close it. I think that's normal?

 

Checked the seals on the reservoir?

 

I've just checked the jubilee* clip and tightened it. Don't know what else to check to be honest as the cylinder is dry.

Have you bled the air from the bleed point in the engine compartment as well, cause that fooker caught me out.

 

I spent ages trying to bleed the system at the slave cylinder after fitting a new cylinder

and the cap being air tight wouldnt make any difference in the short term.

The way the bleed valve on the slave is angled in relation to the feed pipe means the potential is there to leave a trapped air bubble in the cylinder.

The way the bleed valve on the slave is angled in relation to the feed pipe means the potential is there to leave a trapped air bubble in the cylinder.

We'll I've bled it loads of times and each time I get a temporary clutch so to speak because it only lasts for a week or two and then it fails again. So it takes one/two weeks for the air to get back in :confused:

Ossian, I've bled it it from the only two bleed points there are, hicas sol. and slave cylinder.

I just can't understand how the air is getting in without any leaks as it's such a pressurised system.

We'll I've bled it loads of times and each time I get a temporary clutch so to speak because it only lasts for a week or two and then it fails again. So it takes one/two weeks for the air to get back in

Fair comment. I believe you.In that case it is a faulty mastercylinder. Micro amounts of air are bypassing the seal with use. New Mcyl will cure.

Others will say just reseal it... Ok it may work but I personally have given up trying to bodge up 15 year old components like that.

Do it once and do it right.

Ive had this debate countless times. People spend pounds on litres of fluid trying to solve the problem and waste hour after hour on it.

None of the Motor trade garages I use will even discuss a "reseal" Its new or they wont touch the job.

Up to you. Im not for telling you how to ...... its your car. All above is IMHO and meant to be helpful

Fair comment. I believe you.In that case it is a faulty mastercylinder. Micro amounts of air are bypassing the seal with use. New Mcyl will cure.

Others will say just reseal it... Ok it may work but I personally have given up trying to bodge up 15 year old components like that.

Do it once and do it right.

Ive had this debate countless times. People spend pounds on litres of fluid trying to solve the problem and waste hour after hour on it.

None of the Motor trade garages I use will even discuss a "reseal" Its new or they wont touch the job.

Up to you. Im not for telling you how to ...... its your car. All above is IMHO and meant to be helpful

Now that makes sence!

To be honest the cylinder looks like it's never been changed so will deffinetly go ahead and fit a new one, and hopefully that should sort it once and for all.

Wouldn't think about doing a bodge job on something I'm not familiar with in terms of function as it would probably fail again soon and I'd have to go through all that bleeding again, just not worth it.

Hi mate, I had the same problem you need to buy a speed bleeder that will suck all the fliud through. Put it on and 10 mins later problem sorted !

Hi mate, I had the same problem you need to buy a speed bleeder that will suck all the fliud through. Put it on and 10 mins later problem sorted !

Speed bleeder as in standard Halfords style bleeding kit?