Has anyone ever had a problem with the viscous fan on the front of the engine. Mine has decided to sieze up and now the bearings are completely knackered. Any idea of price for a new one, cause I don't want it dropping off.

 

I'm sure you can get a used one from Luje Borg or Mike Feeney.

 

01277 374201

 

Steve

 

Hello, Devil,

 

Please beware, my old man had to fit a new viscous coupling to a fan on his Nissan Urvan cost in box £390.00 ( just supplied!!!) he still has froffs about it now, even (find a part uk) could not find a part at the time. I would suggest you try the engine replacment centers, most import Jap lumps come with everything on it, which might mean they will have a engine (shot) but have the goodies you want at a fraction of the cost, good luck.

 

harve

 

I fitted an electric fan kit on from demon tweeks and it wasn't that expensive either probably a lot cheaper than a new one

Paul

 

I see Sylvia Engineering do an electric fan kit for £350+vat. Are there others (and approx cost) - for future reference.

Thanks, Geoff

 

A new fan clutch costs $140 at Courtesy Nissan.

The part number is 21082-40P10 for a TT.

Don't go mounting any electrical fans instead, they're not

efficient enough. Ask Henri, he's got the data!

 

Maciej

 

Maciej, I was going to say exactly the same thing.

 

The electric fan conversion on the Z just puts more load on the battery and really doesn't free up that much hp. On top of that, it struggles to maintain normal running temperature of around 80c.

 

I know this because I tried one.

 

Don't be fooled by dual electric fan conversions either. The engine fan on the Z is very HD and considering the ££££ that Nissan spent designing the engine cooling it I don't think there is a modification on the market to better it.

 

Steve

 

I have dual thermostatically controlled fans on mine and the viscous fan removed and the engine temperature is constant once the engine warms up and doesn't rise as it used to when stuck in traffic even on the hottest days last summer. For peace in the group I won't say who's fans though.

 

Oh dear

Nissan spent even more money developing the ECU, Intake and exhaust and I've changed all of them as well.

Here's hoping I dont blow up!

Paul

 

Actually I am now worried about blowing up and might stick the old fan back on. Is 80 degrees the ideal coolant temp? I might buy a water temp gauge as the stock one is crap.

Paul

 

Paul,

 

I've have changed most parts of my car from the factory parts that Nissan spent loads of money developing.

 

Of course, these changes are all modifications that better the factory supplied parts and changes the factory sports touring performance to real supercar performance.

 

There are parts of the Z that should never need changing and therefore these are best left alone.

 

Here's a bit more info for you.

 

The radiator fan is controlled by the ECU, which uses input from the vehicle speed sensor, coolant temp sensor, and A/C switch.

 

For twin turbo Z's when the A/C OFF:

 

Coolant below 104C (219F) = Fan OFF

Coolant above 105C (221F) = Fan ON Low

Coolant above 110c = Fan ON High

 

With the A/C ON, Speed below 24MPH:

 

Coolant below 89C (192F) = Fan OFF

Coolant between 90-99C (194-210F) = Fan LOW

Coolant above 100C (212F) = Fan HIGH

 

With the A/C ON, Speed above 25MPH:

Same as abve details when A/C is off.

 

Steve

 

Steve,

 

You need help !

 

Dave

 

Dave,

 

6.45am......

 

I think we both need help!

 

Steve

 

Steve,

 

My fans seems to on all the time ...

 

According to your post when the coolant is below a certain temp it should be off.

 

Is this the normal cause of the fan running all the time, ie coolant sensor duff.

 

 

Must be sapping at least 50bhp ....

 

Glenn

 

Glenn,

 

a faulty ecu coolant temp sensor causes that.

 

 

the one on the left

 

part number 22630-51E00 cost me 22.60+vat at UK dealer

 

Could I ask for some help. Sorry to put it on this thread, but Craig's photo shows the very part I have the problem with.

Yesterday I noticed that nothing was registering on my water temperature gauge. I have taken a look today and noticed the wire had been pulled out of the connector shown in Craig's photo - the one on the right. The black connector fits onto a spade connection out of the Thermal Transmitter shown (right). The black connector is quite substantial as you can see but does not appear to come apart (I think it must have been moulded onto the loom wire) so that I cannot reconnect the wire. Does anybody know how I should go about fixing?

Thanks, Geoff

p.s. great photo Craig!

 

 

Hi GlennS,

 

The engine coolant fan spins at all times during normal operating temperatures. (ie below 104c). You can actually hold it to stop it spinning.

 

At 105c when it switches to single speed (low), you will hear a change in the blade noise. When it switched to double speed (high)at 110c, it sounds like a Dyson :-)

 

It's always a good idea to have the coolant temperature sensor checked but it is normal for the fan to be spinning all the time.

 

Steve

 

 

 

Geoff,

the black connector just houses a standard connector for a spade, nothing else in there.

So, you could cut it off and put another one onto it. although the wire would be a bit short, so you might have to extend it a bit.

 

Thanks Craig. I was a bit concerned as it is such a substantial connector.

I will let the thread pass back to talking about the viscous fan.

Out with the Crimping Tool.

Many thanks, Geoff

 

Thanks for info guys.