Hi everyone, I have a big problem with my Zed...

I am in Romania, which also means I am on my own, with nobody knowing anything about cars at all (much like me..)

I had a bad problem with the car, which ended with one of the hoses to the heater matrix splitting. I thought this was ok, replace hose, refill with coolant... NOT

I have been trying now for almost 3 weeks to refil the cooling system. I have read for a week on various sites about the best way to do this, and am none the wiser with my problem.

I have tried parking nose up, trickle filling with engine on, and off, filling with heater set to on, and nose up, with engine running, also with engine off. Tried with all caps off , all but rad cap on, and every permutation I can think of. I am now running out of patience, and if I cant fill it I will be leaving it on the roadside somewhere.

I disconnected bottom rad hose and let all the coolant that was left fall out, refilled as above, and can only ever manage to get 3 litres (max) of coolant in the rad. The car runs ok, temp guage reads normal, heater obviously doesnt work, running till the engine is warmed up, waiting for the level to drop as the air is expelled causes the water to boil and fountain out the rad about a foot or so.

This also makes it hard to see exactly how much coolant goes in, as most of it inevitably ends up on the floor...!

Please help with an idiots guide as to exactly how to fully empty the water system and refill (I have no idea whether the heater is opening the valve to the matrix or not - I would guess not)

I have no more money for more coolant additive, as I am a charity worker over here, and dont exactly get paid a huge wage...!

Thanks in advance for any advice...!

Chris

I've never had a problem from just filling up and driving and checking it about 3 or 4 times after, top up, and its fine?

Hi everyone, I have a big problem with my Zed...

I am in Romania, which also means I am on my own, with nobody knowing anything about cars at all (much like me..)

I had a bad problem with the car, which ended with one of the hoses to the heater matrix splitting. I thought this was ok, replace hose, refill with coolant... NOT

I have been trying now for almost 3 weeks to refil the cooling system. I have read for a week on various sites about the best way to do this, and am none the wiser with my problem.

I have tried parking nose up, trickle filling with engine on, and off, filling with heater set to on, and nose up, with engine running, also with engine off. Tried with all caps off , all but rad cap on, and every permutation I can think of. I am now running out of patience, and if I cant fill it I will be leaving it on the roadside somewhere.

I disconnected bottom rad hose and let all the coolant that was left fall out, refilled as above, and can only ever manage to get 3 litres (max) of coolant in the rad. The car runs ok, temp guage reads normal, heater obviously doesnt work, running till the engine is warmed up, waiting for the level to drop as the air is expelled causes the water to boil and fountain out the rad about a foot or so.

This also makes it hard to see exactly how much coolant goes in, as most of it inevitably ends up on the floor...!

Please help with an idiots guide as to exactly how to fully empty the water system and refill (I have no idea whether the heater is opening the valve to the matrix or not - I would guess not)

I have no more money for more coolant additive, as I am a charity worker over here, and dont exactly get paid a huge wage...!

Thanks in advance for any advice...!

Chris

 

hi chris you have to remember with the waterpump and thermostat in position this holds anything up to 3-4litrs of coolant inside the engine which you will be unaware of.

 

to do this properly i would suggest the following

 

remove rad cap

remove bleed screw

top up until as much is needed

start car

set temp to max and blowers on

with car running squeeze the hoses going and returning from the matrix the rubber ones from the engine to firewall

with someone holding the revs at around 3k rpm eventually you should feel heat coming in to the car!

check coolant all the time until thermostat opens and lets coolant through, if for whatever reason you still struggle top get heat in to the cabin, you may need to check the following

 

a)thermostat check its opening times it could be faulty causing it to stay shut and no coolant reaching the heating systym!

 

b)matrix failure allthough you may well notice a wet carpet passenger or driverside.

 

finally if problem still arises, get a consult on car or an aftermarket water temprature gauge on the car and check the temps are fine and the engine is not running to hot, stock nissan gauge starts to rise at around 110 by which point the car is past boiling point which you may not notice when running normally.

 

im guessing when you had the leak the car overheated? or did you notice the leak straight away.

 

it may be you going mad, but the radiator only takes about 3-4ltrs to fill so it may be full already, however you may have a air lock in the systym, or a faulty thermostat as above.

 

cheers greg

Well, I fill like that, with the nose up, and the rad cap and bleed screw removed. The matrix pipe gets hot and the top rad hose gets hot too. I think there is circulation, but there must just be a huge air lock which is impossible to get rid of (as I say, I have tried this for some time now)

The engine didnt overheat, The nearest garage is about 2 hours away, they deal with mainly 1970 Renault 12's.

I fill with the 3 litres or so, waiting for the level to drop, or for it to circulate properly and idt wont.

Can I put a hose on anywhere and 'push' the air out? then refill with the correct percentage of additive?

I need a solution. I think the thermostat is working, as warms up the top hose, and if you rev the engine slightly the water rushes past the rad filler quite quickly...

Chris

 

...lets hope it's not this, but my son had the same on a Rover - water full, engine gets hot, warped head/knackered head gasket warps and presurises the water system and pumps all of the water out through the rad cap. Ok when cold, disaster when hot.

 

I've had a water pump on a Z go and I've nursed it back from southern France by keeping an eye on the guage and stopping and topping up every time the temp needle went above the normal level mark. No damage, and repaired co a new water pump.

 

Good luck

 

Jack.

The leak appeared while parked and bonnet up, so was noticed quickly, this was following a flood wiped out the car, and I have had to nurse it back to health. Water and mud was up to the top of the headlights. Suffice it to say, after 6 months work my not being able to fill it properly is the last straw...! I had to completely remove the interior and hose it out, replace engine ECU, gearbox ECU, and get all the water and mud out of the intake system and exhaust, etc....

Bearing in mind I had to dig a hole in the garden and lie in it, pulling the cvar over me whilst I laid there to work on the underside... There really is nothing here...

This is my main problem, along with my own lack of knowledge (I am a carpenter) (not that carpenters lack knowledge, but lack mechanical knowledge sometimes...)

Chris

 

...sounds like you've got a few problems there (to put it mildly). It's not an easy solution, but the only thing that blocks the flow (assuming it's not mud) is the thermostat. If you remove this then the waterpump should shove the water around un-restricted. If there is a blockage that is air, then maybe this will flush it out.

 

Problem is, removing the thermostat is a difficult job.

 

...can't think of anything else to suggest, apart from that you might be looking for an innapropriate solution as what you describe could be attributed to a blocked thermostat - you get the same effect if the coolant freezes and top of the engine isn't getting cooled. Had it once in an old Saab..

 

Good luck

 

Jack

Many thanks for that, I think I will try and remove the thermostat. Whats the worst that can happen? I remain with an undriveable car, like I started with...! Worth the risk... I had a leak in the EGR valve, and blocked it ot, that was a hell of a job with an old socket set and some Aluminium window frames...!

 

Thanks again for advice, and if anyone else has any suggestions I would love to hear them...!

 

Chris

 

...sounds like you've got a few problems there (to put it mildly). It's not an easy solution, but the only thing that blocks the flow (assuming it's not mud) is the thermostat. If you remove this then the waterpump should shove the water around un-restricted. If there is a blockage that is air, then maybe this will flush it out.

 

Problem is, removing the thermostat is a difficult job.

 

...can't think of anything else to suggest, apart from that you might be looking for an innapropriate solution as what you describe could be attributed to a blocked thermostat - you get the same effect if the coolant freezes and top of the engine isn't getting cooled. Had it once in an old Saab..

 

Good luck

 

Jack

oh dear so you had a flood go over the height of the intake, that does not sound good, infect what could of happened is water goes in through the intake then in to the engine and hydrolock, i would get someone to check for any combustion gases in the cooling systym after you check thermostat :cry:

 

i hope it hasnt caused any damage as it can possibly bend rods and cause engine damage :cry:

Many thanks for that, I think I will try and remove the thermostat. Whats the worst that can happen? I remain with an undriveable car, like I started with...! Worth the risk... I had a leak in the EGR valve, and blocked it ot, that was a hell of a job with an old socket set and some Aluminium window frames...!

 

Thanks again for advice, and if anyone else has any suggestions I would love to hear them...!

 

double post sorry

I think what I'll try is a full flush, using a system I have found on TTnet, this looks like a hell of a job, but does at least put clean water through everywhere...

Yes, water did make it into the intake, I removed the air filter( cone type) and water was sitting right at the top of the pipe the AMM is connected to...

I took it all apart, including the bits behind the wheel arches (something to do with the emmissions, emptied out the water, cleaned out the mud (which drfies like concrete) and have at least got the engine running... It starts fairly badly, quite lumpy, and after running for a few minutes with your right foot stopping it from dieing every now and then it idles ok, albeit with a bit of hunting. I reckon this could be due to the air lock which there has to be somewhere...

Anyway, I will let you know how I get on. I will need to find some way of attatching a hose to a water well...! Seriously, a guy from town said I can borrow an electric pump for a hose connection.

How do I check if there is exhaust gas in the coolant system? If I flush every single bit of it, surely this will be flushed out too....?

Cheers guys, will check back soon.

Chris

Oh, and I have had to try and flush out the auto transmission fluid too, using an air compressor, has taken 3 goes, by the 4th it seemed clear of water evidence..... I think there is a breather on the auto box which water went into.... One day I will show you some pictures of it when it was getting cleaned up, you wont believe it runs at all.......

Just to clarify, the car was parked, and the whole area flooded, we were too busy saving people to be able to move all the vehicles, etc. It sat in water for 2 days, just soaking. I started the clean up after a week and a half.... I didn't drive into a flood, so the engine wasn't running when water went over the top...!

Well, yesterday I took out the thermostat, seems to work fine (by dropping in hot wter on string, etc) flushed out whole system, refilled, took all day with car on lumps of wood...

Has made no difference at all. Still as bad as before.

This morning I removed the head unit and rear speakers, drove the car to a layby just outside the village, removed the Apexi filter and the wheels and left it there. Lets see how long it takes the locals to come and dismantle all the rest...........

Thanks for your suggestions, but now its gone and I am not sorry.

Regards,

Chris

Well, yesterday I took out the thermostat, seems to work fine (by dropping in hot wter on string, etc) flushed out whole system, refilled, took all day with car on lumps of wood...

Has made no difference at all. Still as bad as before.

This morning I removed the head unit and rear speakers, drove the car to a layby just outside the village, removed the Apexi filter and the wheels and left it there. Lets see how long it takes the locals to come and dismantle all the rest...........

Thanks for your suggestions, but now its gone and I am not sorry.

Regards,

Chris

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: ;)

LMFAO!!

 

poor zed

Well, yesterday I took out the thermostat, seems to work fine (by dropping in hot wter on string, etc) flushed out whole system, refilled, took all day with car on lumps of wood...

Has made no difference at all. Still as bad as before.

This morning I removed the head unit and rear speakers, drove the car to a layby just outside the village, removed the Apexi filter and the wheels and left it there. Lets see how long it takes the locals to come and dismantle all the rest...........

Thanks for your suggestions, but now its gone and I am not sorry.

Regards,

Chris

no you need to take it back home bud, strip the interior out and get it into the house then stand it on its ass against the wall.

it would make a great fire place :rofl: :rofl: ;)

Sorry to hear of the demise of your Z - I'm sure the recycling opportunity will be well recieved amongst the locals. Don't forget to post a few pics when you can.

 

And if you want one that works when you get back into the UK, give me a shout.

 

Cheerz

 

Jack

hi chris you have to remember with the waterpump and thermostat in position this holds anything up to 3-4litrs of coolant inside the engine which you will be unaware of.

 

to do this properly i would suggest the following

 

remove rad cap

remove bleed screw

top up until as much is needed

start car

set temp to max and blowers on

with car running squeeze the hoses going and returning from the matrix the rubber ones from the engine to firewall

with someone holding the revs at around 3k rpm eventually you should feel heat coming in to the car!

check coolant all the time until thermostat opens and lets coolant through, if for whatever reason you still struggle top get heat in to the cabin, you may need to check the following

 

a)thermostat check its opening times it could be faulty causing it to stay shut and no coolant reaching the heating systym!

 

b)matrix failure allthough you may well notice a wet carpet passenger or driverside.

 

finally if problem still arises, get a consult on car or an aftermarket water temprature gauge on the car and check the temps are fine and the engine is not running to hot, stock nissan gauge starts to rise at around 110 by which point the car is past boiling point which you may not notice when running normally.

 

im guessing when you had the leak the car overheated? or did you notice the leak straight away.

 

it may be you going mad, but the radiator only takes about 3-4ltrs to fill so it may be full already, however you may have a air lock in the systym, or a faulty thermostat as above.

 

cheers greg

 

Hi

 

Where is the bleed screw?

 

Does anyone have a picture.

 

Spencer

Hi

 

Where is the bleed screw?

 

Does anyone have a picture.

 

Spencer

top of rad on drivers side ;)

top of rad on drivers side ;)

 

Hi

 

Anyone got a picture?

 

Spencer

Hi

 

Anyone got a picture?

 

Spencer

i aint got a pic but its a round black thing with a slot init :rofl: :D