Ok as you guys know my best mate and myself have been fabricating vents and spraying my bonnett and the end result was looking gorgeous, but I came to my Z the following day and overnight the paint has lost it's glass look and has gone all speckely, textured and feels very rough too touch in fact if you touch it, it leaves your fingure mark embedded in the laquer as i found out when i put my hand on the bonnett earlier... :slap:

 

We don't quiet understand what went wrong because it's all happened over night in the cool night air... Should we have left in the Z in a dry garage over night??? :confused:

 

Ok we've obviosuly gotta do it again this week and understand I now gotta sand it all down with 1200 grit but need to know and help in the times needed between spraying the car and applying the laquer afterwards...

 

Originally we sprayed the car in 2 pac paint and then put the laquer on pretty much straight afterwards but think he only put a thin coating of laquer on... I can't remember which type of laquer we used I understand you can get 2pac laquer now as well.

 

Would this have caused the orange peel effect because the laquer sprayed wasn't thick enough or we used the wrong type of laquer with 2 pac paint or should we have left the paint to dry for a certain time before applying the laquer afterwards... It's really weird as the car was fine driving home and the laquer was touch dry, it all happend overnight in the outside air...

 

Please help, ideally we would like to know:

 

1: How long we should leave the paint to set before applying the laquer coat afterwards.

 

2: How many coats of laquer we should apply after spraying the red paint.

 

3: Standing times between the finished end result with paint and laquer before I can use the Z again.

 

Thank you most gratefully to anyone who can help as I'm feeling really down and gutted at the moment because it was looking great and now it's all turned to shit...

 

Here are the pics...

 

Close up of the orange peeled textured laquer...

 

 

The overall specled effect...

 

solid colours are not normally lacquered. if the red has a gloss to it i wouldnt lacquer it. although you can get solid colours that require a lacquer as they are only base coats. all metalics are clear over base

IMHO you are giving yourselves extra aggro and work by going down the basecoat and laquer route, especialy as you are not well up on the tec side.

im an amateur sprayer with a fair knowledge.

Im currently respraying a red car.

Step 1. I use yellow spray putty filler primer(paint + 2K thinners.

Step 2. Flat back above and then prime with 2 Pac primer.(5+1 mix.. follow instructions CAREFULLY and MEASURE accurately)

Step 3. Finish with 2 Pac Gloss red( Im using Ferrari Rosso Corsa).

Leave to harden for a week or so. Im an amateur with amateur equipment so I dont end up with a brilliant top finish but after its cut back with G3 either by hand or on a mop it ends up NEARLY as good as the pros.

Its simple and almost foolproof.

I always leave a day between each stage to allow it all to harden etc.

polyester base coats have an air dry time of aprox 4 to 6 hours max before 2k laquer is applied, according to the paint manufacturers as both base coat and laquer have to bond ,otherwise there is a chance of the laquer shelling off/ but if you paint the laquer too early in air drying conditions you trap solvents under the laquer which will react and softened /or blister even soak through to the undercoat especially if you have used a cellulose primer which would then react as celly primer can be used for pollyester base coat but must be fully hardened,especially if you have used high build and put loads of coats on, thats another reason to use 2 k primer to try avoid any chemical reactions.another problem you migh have got water in ur air line especially if u only have a small compressor and its been running flat out, which generates heat then cools and u end up with moisture being blown out at same time. hope this will help u

richard

yes i agree with pete. the original paint on your car wont have been lacquered. you are just creating extra work for yourself. 2k paint is very easy to spray in comparison to other paint types. the quality of the gun used aswell is a big factor in determining the finish. i use a devilbiss Gti with a seperate pressure pot

QUOTE:another problem you migh have got water in ur air line especially if u only have a small compressor and its been running flat out, which generates heat then cools and u end up with moisture being blown out at same time.

 

good point, didnt think of that. i dont have this problem. have 250 litre reciever.

Go to halfords and buy 50 cans LOL

TBH I think Syko hit the nail on the head - that looks like its reacted to me...

it could be a number of things such as paint reacting with the old paint and primer, moisture, no hardner added etc,

to rectify it i'd recommend you sand /strip back to bare metal to reduce the likelyhood of it happening again, and due to you saying the laquer is still soft enough to leave a finger print embedded in it.

 

use 2k primer and 2k paint.

2k paints contain isocyantes that is a type of cyanide and can be FATAL if breathed, painting 2k requires air fed mask to paint safely but you can buy disposable 2k safe masks nowadays for about £20, use one it's better to be safe than sorry.

i no alot of people paint 2k without any safety precautions but i wouldnt risk it because different people react in different ways. one guy has been painting it for years with no ill effects one of my friends on the other hand actually siezed up, his arms, legs and chest went tight and he couldnt breath or talk, the ambulance paramedics thort he was having a heart attact, scary

 

prep and 2k primer it as you would and leave it a few hours for the primer to cure, you no the primer is cured when the sand paper doesnt clog up with primer (any residue on the sand paper should just desolve in the flatting water)

dry and wipe down with a panel wipe.

apply 1 coat of your red paint, touch a bit of masking tape that has the red paint on it to see if its loosing it's tackyness, when it is you can apply the second coat do the same for the remaining 2-3 coats.

 

if the 2k paint is mixed and applied correctly it should be fully cured (air dry, with no heat)in about 7 hours and ready to wet flat with p1500 paper and ready to buff.

if you have runs or the paint was applied abit too thick you going to have to leave it longer, leave it 24 hrs anyway just to be sure.

 

hope this helps

Everyones being really helpfull on this, can't thank you all enough! :bow: Lots of different ideas...

When it comes to spraying in a garage I’m your man. Lets get straight to the point, first of all make sure the paints dry, if it sand down with 600 wet and dry (sand it wet it cuts better and doesn’t clog the paper as much). Once the bonnet is smooth use a 2K colour 2 part lacquer to 1 part hardener and about 1.5 parts of 2k thinners, spray on till shinny but not too much, put three coats on with about 15 minutes between coats. Leave the lacquer to harden off for a week, then sand down with 1200 wet and dry, put some water with a small amount of washing up liquid in (makes it easier to sand) a tub and sand it wet.

Buff up with T-cut then use a car wax to finish off. You don’t put clear coats over the top of solid colours only metallic.

 

Good luck m8

 

Paul

QUOTE:You don’t put clear coats over the top of solid colours only metallic.

 

not true actually, the solid red paint nissan use was a base coat followed by a clear coat. But now they have reverted to just a solid red

not true actually, the solid red paint nissan use was a base coat followed by a clear coat. But now they have reverted to just a solid red

Yep my AG2 Red Slicktop is like that.

I know cos some of the lacquer is now coming off the nose panel.

(I think its because I drive too fast. LOL!)

many things can cause reactions. can you remember them wrist bands that were fashionable last year (diff colour ones, supporting breast cancer, against racism etc) Nissan banned us from wearing them in the paint plant because they where made from silicone and they were causing the paint to react, much like jonlowndes

Yep my AG2 Red Slicktop is like that.

I know cos some of the lacquer is now coming off the nose panel.

(I think its because I drive too fast. LOL!)

 

Mine is AG2 as well...

hi m8, you did'nt need to use laquer anyway on solid colours, but you can if you want its optional, the easiest way is to buy your red in direct gloss you get a better finish and its better for polishing, whats happened to yours is that you have mixed the paint too thick and the cool air overnight has blown it, if you had'nt used laquer, you could have salvaged that, when you do it again, use 2k direct gloss with express activator, that way you can paint and buff within 2 days, pm me if you need any more advise on painting fella.

hi m8, you did'nt need to use laquer anyway on solid colours, but you can if you want its optional, the easiest way is to buy your red in direct gloss you get a better finish and its better for polishing, whats happened to yours is that you have mixed the paint too thick and the cool air overnight has blown it, if you had'nt used laquer, you could have salvaged that, when you do it again, use 2k direct gloss with express activator, that way you can paint and buff within 2 days, pm me if you need any more advise on painting fella.

 

Nice one dude, so is the general consensus gonna be spray with the AG2 Red, leave it till the following day to see how it looks then if it's still not shiney enough go over it with laquer or just leave it with the original AG2 and polish after a few days??

if you buy direct gloss with activator, you wont need the laquer atall fella

You could also try using a barrier coat in case it was reacting, cost about £15 for a ltr tin, rub down what you have done, spray it on staright from the can (no thinning) then put your colour on, and yes the Nissan AG2 red is a solid colour basecoat, it should be lacquered.

you can get any colour in direct gloss except for metallics, ive used it a million times myself.

you can get any colour in direct gloss except for metallics, ive used it a million times myself.

You can but it will never be an identical match. In fact you can get some metallics that come as a single coat finish with no lacquer required.

Ok as you guys know my best mate and myself have been fabricating vents and spraying my bonnett and the end result was looking gorgeous, but I came to my Z the following day

 

 

the vents look nice and it's going to look great when your paint work is sorted.

 

Remember to put some drain trays under the vents though so you don't wet your electrics.

You can but it will never be an identical match. In fact you can get some metallics that come as a single coat finish with no lacquer required.

ive been paintin for years pal, and so long as you get the correct variant you cant go wrong, i'm using a lot of water base now and it been a learnin curve all over again, the metalics your refering to are a dual blend paint and there shit cause you cant build to get your desired shade of colour.

the vents look nice and it's going to look great when your paint work is sorted.

 

Remember to put some drain trays under the vents though so you don't wet your electrics.

 

Yeah we put a big polethene sheet covering up the engine completely...

 

This is what they did look like mate until the cool night air set in a recked it all... :(

 

 

 

 

 

I want it to look like this again and stay like it this time!!! :)

i think he meant drip trays to stop the water running in when it rains. nismo-si. ive also tried painting water based, its harder to paint and alot more involved. due to regulations everywhere will have to paint using water based soon. only reason nissan aren't at the moment is the painters have problems getting the finish and the increased cost

Are they just cossie copy vents???. Thet do look the muts.

 

Yep I did mean drip trays for when it rains.