PLEASE READ THIS DOCUMENT

 

Now then -- you decide to install boost jets into the boost signal line while keeping the stock solenoids installed. You put in .045 jets and are now running 14 psi. The boost jet is restricting the actual boost signal, "tricking" the system and showing the actuator less pressure (boost) than actual boost. The small hole in the boost jet allows less pressure through the signal hose (about 4-5 psi in this case). The factory solenoid further bleeds this signal (about 3 psi). The result is that the actuator sees 6 psi of pressure when in actually you are running 14 psi into the manifold. Another issue here, the signal is bleeding to the actuator as boost increases. So, when you're at 10 psi, the actuator sees 2 psi. When at 12, actuator sees 4 psi. The actuator may actually start moving once pressure is getting close the operating opening pressure, as in the stock setup (discussed above).

 

Another issue with boost jets, also seen in the stock setup (but not as serious), is boost spike. The boost level seen in the engine can spike for brief moments before the actuator operation opens the wastegate and holds boost at max. This can be dangerous for the engine, leading to pre-detonation.

 

http://WWW.THUMPER300ZX.COM

PLEASE READ THIS DOCUMENT

 

Now then -- you decide to install boost jets into the boost signal line while keeping the stock solenoids installed. You put in .045 jets and are now running 14 psi. The boost jet is restricting the actual boost signal, "tricking" the system and showing the actuator less pressure (boost) than actual boost. The small hole in the boost jet allows less pressure through the signal hose (about 4-5 psi in this case). The factory solenoid further bleeds this signal (about 3 psi). The result is that the actuator sees 6 psi of pressure when in actually you are running 14 psi into the manifold. Another issue here, the signal is bleeding to the actuator as boost increases. So, when you're at 10 psi, the actuator sees 2 psi. When at 12, actuator sees 4 psi. The actuator may actually start moving once pressure is getting close the operating opening pressure, as in the stock setup (discussed above).

 

Another issue with boost jets, also seen in the stock setup (but not as serious), is boost spike. The boost level seen in the engine can spike for brief moments before the actuator operation opens the wastegate and holds boost at max. This can be dangerous for the engine, leading to pre-detonation.

 

http://WWW.THUMPER300ZX.COM

good point but with a good map and common sense you can get to "feel" the motor and avoid engine damage. ime on my third zed and all of em had jets and funny enough no auto box problems either so i would say iff you are not to hot with spaners and dont know whats goin on under your hood get the safety of a e/boost controller after all whats good for me maybe not be so good for you

Electronic boost controller all the way mate, apart from being safer and allowing you to run an exact boost level you can also change it by the twist of a dial whenever you want.

ive had jets for ages. I have a boost controler to fit. but lets be honest, there isnt anyone in the country that can tune these flipping cars on a stock ecu. Every "chip" ive had has had either fueling trouble or timeing trouble, there has always been something wrong with it.

 

I have more chance of blowing teh lump from a bad map than a jet. sory but its true.

You could argue that an EBC is more dangerous than jets. Afterall with an EBC you don't have safety boost any more.

You could argue that an EBC is more dangerous than jets. Afterall with an EBC you don't have safety boost any more.

 

Very good point Clarkey...

you can also change it by the twist of a dial whenever you want.

 

Fiddle factor - probably the greatest risk of all. "Now if I can just try that again with a little more boost" "Ooops - bugger ..."

Fiddle factor - probably the greatest risk of all. "Now if I can just try that again with a little more boost" "Ooops - bugger ..."

I think setting it up can be pretty dangerous too. I finished installing mine today and went out to do a bit of testing on my private track...

 

I was still trying to adjust it down from the initial settings I used (posted here), to stop it hitting the boost limiter, when it started to slide back into the clock opening. :slap: So I need to secure it a bit better and then have another go. It felt nice though. :D

Fiddle factor - probably the greatest risk of all. "Now if I can just try that again with a little more boost" "Ooops - bugger ..."

 

But boost jets have no fiddle factor, it is a very hit and miss situation of what boost you get. Imagine if something gets stuck in the boost jet it will blow your turbos.

 

Least when a EBC is setup it is constently adjusting and monitoring the boost.

But boost jets have no fiddle factor, it is a very hit and miss situation of what boost you get. Imagine if something gets stuck in the boost jet it will blow your turbos.

 

Least when a EBC is setup it is constently adjusting and monitoring the boost.

 

Assuming you set the boost jets up correctly to start with they should stay correct, although your point about getting something stuck in them is valid, albeit unlikely.

 

I ran boost jets for a number of years and never had any problems. Since getting an EBC I have permanently been fiddling and trying to get it 'just right', consequently I've had far more det than is healthy.

Assuming you set the boost jets up correctly to start with they should stay correct, although your point about getting something stuck in them is valid, albeit unlikely.

 

I ran boost jets for a number of years and never had any problems. Since getting an EBC I have permanently been fiddling and trying to get it 'just right', consequently I've had far more det than is healthy.

 

 

 

I agree, I had jets in for 18 months and never had any problem. Getting anything stuck in them is unlikely and would really have to happen to both sizes too. Not to mention get past the air filter.

 

I must have been lucky with my boost controller. Installed it, did a few learning runs and now it holds boost perfectly on what ever I put the setting at. I have the 2 settings one on 18psi, the other 14 and off drops it to about 7psi, which after the rebuild feels like what it did on stock standard boost.

 

However, the temptation is there to change it and increase the boost.

PLEASE READ THIS DOCUMENT

 

Now then -- you decide to install boost jets into the boost signal line while keeping the stock solenoids installed. You put in .045 jets and are now running 14 psi. The boost jet is restricting the actual boost signal, "tricking" the system and showing the actuator less pressure (boost) than actual boost. The small hole in the boost jet allows less pressure through the signal hose (about 4-5 psi in this case). The factory solenoid further bleeds this signal (about 3 psi). The result is that the actuator sees 6 psi of pressure when in actually you are running 14 psi into the manifold. Another issue here, the signal is bleeding to the actuator as boost increases. So, when you're at 10 psi, the actuator sees 2 psi. When at 12, actuator sees 4 psi. The actuator may actually start moving once pressure is getting close the operating opening pressure, as in the stock setup (discussed above).

 

Another issue with boost jets, also seen in the stock setup (but not as serious), is boost spike. The boost level seen in the engine can spike for brief moments before the actuator operation opens the wastegate and holds boost at max. This can be dangerous for the engine, leading to pre-detonation.

 

http://WWW.THUMPER300ZX.COM

You say at 14psi the actuator see's 6psi would the car fuel for 6 or 14??

actuator has nout to do with fuelling.