It was misfiring above 4k rpm, also had code 34. I rewired the connector and reset the ecu, no more code 34, all clear. Changed the maf and the misfiring stopped on low boost but still there on high boost. Also got code 34 again!

 

When it misfires i cant hear any rattling, its just total power loss.

 

Im going to change the plugs next but its really starting to pi** me off!

 

What percentage should my a/f be at idle and full throttle?

 

Is my car detting?

well thats put my mind at rest a bit. as long as its running rich not lean.

you have pm ;)

well thats put my mind at rest a bit. as long as its running rich not lean.

you cant win. running rich on cylinders for long periods does not do the pistons/bore much good neither, so a balance inbetween is vital in the longetivity of your engine

you cant win. running rich on cylinders for long periods does not do the pistons/bore much good neither, so a balance inbetween is vital in the longetivity of your engine

 

Agreed! However its running so rich that the engine is hesitating so isn't gonna be run under those conditions for very long. Running rich causes 'bore wash' (no, this isn't a cleaning service for your cattle :D ). The excess fuel gets past the rings and washes the film of oil off the cylinder walls, causing excessive wear....

resistor going in tonight - batt dissconnected till then

resistor going in tonight - batt dissconnected till then

:nana2: :nana2: get in there :D

still code 34 with risistor in place ?

and its a 1kohm ?

arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

did you reset the ecu ? (disconnect the batt and then press the break to discharge all capasitors) then leave it off for a while, overnight is best.

if so then the fault is between the resistor and the ecu (thats if the resistor is connected correctly and functioning)

still code 34 with risistor in place ?

and its a 1kohm ?

arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

you need a 1 meg ohm, not 1 k ohm ;)

if so then the fault is between the resistor and the ecu (thats if the resistor is connected correctly and functioning)

 

got data scan so resett with that

got new wires from ecu up to top of engine put resistor in and same 34 put a differant resistor in 34 not happey

you need a 1 meg ohm, not 1 k ohm ;)

 

just passifi me wot band coulors are thay on resistor?

ecu problem then?

 

try resetting it my way

just passifi me wot band coulors are thay on resistor?

 

like this:

 

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonationSensor/detonationSensor.html

 

check with an ohm meter if in doubt

the one i got is 1 mega ohm and the colours are different than the one used on that link so best test it with a multimeter, you know it could be faulty or a bad connection to it.

like this:

 

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonationSensor/detonationSensor.html

 

check with an ohm meter if in doubt

 

yea thats were i found mod in first place but pics not that good

looks like red black green gold in one pic

or in pic below it looks like orange black green gold?

Resister in. Ran it for 4min, turn it off, 0 errors, ran it again, still 0 errors!

 

I will drive it to work tomorrow and see if its still hesitating, check for errors again.

 

It could still be an intermittant bad connection to the ecu as it was an intermittant problem anyways.

resistor is in, drove it to work, still the same!

 

checked again when i got to work and still 0 errors.

 

Changing the plugs asap and trying another maf.

Maf changed, no different!

 

as my heater matriz was leaking im wondering if my ecu is damaged or something

Started changing the plugs today, for 11b's.

 

The old ones are ZFR7F 11 and were really loose! I have only done the front 2 as it has started pissing it down again!

 

Are the ZFR7F 11 plugs even right for the z?

well still the same 34 arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

if your still getting code 34 with the resistor correctly installed, then the fault lies in the wiring from that point back to the ECU, or the ECU itself. id check the ECU connector 1st

if your still getting code 34 with the resistor correctly installed, then the fault lies in the wiring from that point back to the ECU, or the ECU itself. id check the ECU connector 1st

 

SO FAR PUT IN NEW WIRE AND GOT RIGHT RESISTOR GOING TO TRY PUTING IT IN AT ECU END SEE WOT HAPPENS THIS TIME AT FIRST IT WAS A INTERMITTENT FAULT BLOODY THING

new plugs now in so will try it tomorrow. bloody balence bar probs now!

stll the same with the new plugs! Does run better in general tho

WELL AFTER A HOUR ON THIS ONE SORTED

unpluged ecu unplued knock sensor got multimeter out to check wires and 0.65 ohm on sensor feed wire ?

turns out the knock sensor wire from my apexi air fule controler was causeing the fault

so cut the wire to this

and all clear code 55

so boost leak test to do next