How do you know when your reaching the limits of your engine, turbo's, injectors etc? and how do you know how much pressure to run turbo's at?

 

For example, I install new 530bb Turbo's, 555 inj etc, how do you know which will max out first? Before something breaks. Hope that makes sense lol

 

 

Thanks

 

Barry

when it runs lean and you cant increase the fueling any more because your at 100% duty cycle the injectors are maxed.

when the mixture is rich at high load/boost/rpm and you cant wind the boost any higher then the turbos havnt got the volume.

 

there are a few calculators can give you a rough idea:

http://dairally.net/daihard/chas/MiscCalculators/DaiFuelinject.htm

http://dairally.net/daihard/chas/MiscCalculators/DaiTurbo.htm

 

courtesy of Chas at Diahard.org

hope this helps

depending on what boost your gonna be making, prob your intercoolers if your still running stock? What chip you put in, bigger tubs and injectors wont make that much difference if you dont have the correct chip to re map the engine to fuel the bigger injectors, stock intercoolers wont cool the extra charged air from the bigger tubs enough. stock chip will still only let the you produce around 9psi and still fuel the injectors as per standard injectors.

 

A good electronic boost controller will let you set your own limits but once again no good with out the chip and the rest of the goodies

As already mentioned all parts of the car need to be considered as you upgrade as different bits will be the limiting factor as you go up in power. This is why you often see the stage 1 tune, stage 2 tune, etc. The first things you have to deal with are the limitations in the amount of air and exhaust the engine can handle so you do the induction and exhaust. Then (or at the same time) you need to do the chip to handle the extra fueling and air intake. These are the cheapest things to do. The next level is to up the boost with a good electronic boost controller (bleed jets should be avoided if you are considering future mods). At this point there are lots of other factors depending on the car. The intercoolers on a zed will manage 400bhp ish before needing uprating (IMO front mount is a waste of time as you are then disabling the ability of the radiator behind it to cool the engine coolant which is very important on a zed. Better to use the full frontage with sound mounts). My old zed ran 400bhp at the crank on normal tubs with no problems. You can uprate them with 360thrust bearings to furthur decrease the lag but small tubs have hardly any lag anyhow (this is one reason nissan used two small tubs). Bigger tubs are very expensive but you'll need them to run big power. If you get bigger tubs you'll want bigger injectors. There's a million other things which then become an issue as you get into very big power such as fuel pump (I think I heard the zed fuel pump is very good though??), gearbox, clutch,etc. Then you have to think about whether you can apply the power to the ground, so need to look at suspension and tyres as big BHP is only good for the pubtalk if you can't apply it...

Thanks for all your input, I guess once all the mods are done, it would need to be run on a dyno and any mapping done at that point.

 

At present the car has

 

Greddy smic

Profec B 11 (to be chipped by J Dixon)

Lightened Pulleys

Dump valves

RPS Street Clutch and Firdanza Flywheel

Megan Decats (possibly to be replaced with Alunox front section)

ALunox rear exhaust

Tein Coilovers

Koyo Rad and Water Wetter

Stoptech 13" brakes (on order)

 

So, with the above, Ive got the cooling sorted, Handling and braking

 

On order

 

JWT 530bb Turbos, with downpipe

555 inj

EGR bypass

New lifters

Wiseco pistons

Eagle Rods

Wiring Harness

Na Squirters

JWT 400+ cams

 

Ive been told that should be good for 450bhp +

 

So, what psi should I be seeing and is anything above being pushed to its max?

 

Thanks

 

Barry

Personally I'd add new bearings and oil pump to yer list mate, not expensive items but certainly getting on in years and can prove expensive to replace should either fail, not to mention other damage.

I would run approx 18-19psi with that set up :)

Oh and dunno if yer running the sport or the Max street clutch, but if the Sport then that will start wearing down sooner rather than later, the Max is more ideal for cars in bigger injectors/Tubs.

smithy

for the cams you'll need to add stiffer valve springs and cam sprocket adapters

How do you know when your reaching the limits of your engine, turbo's, injectors etc? and how do you know how much pressure to run turbo's at?

 

For example, I install new 530bb Turbo's, 555 inj etc, how do you know which will max out first? Before something breaks. Hope that makes sense lol

 

 

Thanks

 

Barry

 

Simple answer Bazza;)

 

Ask some one that really does know what they are doing to set it all up.

The guy that maps the car can tell what your limits are and how close you are to them.

As MAC says, when you get it mapped your mapper will get to a point where he cant get anymore power from the set up or if its weak in a certain area ie fueling or air intake it will show itself while mapping or if your very lucky you will get to the max of the turbos which is 18-19 psi and the mapper will be able to map her up for that which means your there :)

 

Mike

nobody advice him with 1.2mm metal head gasket?

You think stock one will be ok?

 

When you say oil pump smithy you mean high flow oil pump?

nobody advice him with 1.2mm metal head gasket?

You think stock one will be ok?

 

When you say oil pump smithy you mean high flow oil pump?

 

for the power of them turbos i would think a OEM HG would do the job fine but yes if you want a little more safety then fitting a metal HG is fine :)

 

the oil pump on a zed is very very good anyway so just fitting a new oem one will be fine

 

Mike

nobody advice him with 1.2mm metal head gasket?

You think stock one will be ok?

 

 

I would not go down that route myself!

 

Mig wired deck face is the way to go IMHO.

I would not go down that route myself!

 

Mig wired deck face is the way to go IMHO.

whats that when its at home,,,for us thick ooooss

nobody advice him with 1.2mm metal head gasket?

You think stock one will be ok?

 

When you say oil pump smithy you mean high flow oil pump?

 

No mate, a new stock OEM one is perfectly fine ( as mike said)

Of the rebuild kits i've supplied only 2 have had Toga pumps and one of them am still waiting for..........

Headgasket wise, options of Mig wiring the gaskets, copper ringing the block will both allow higher boost and prevent gasket failure. For those wanting metal gaskets though, i have supplied a few sets of Cometic gaskets which range from 1mm up to 1.4mm, a lot less costly than the greddy ones too :)

cheers

smithy

Thanks for all your input, I guess once all the mods are done, it would need to be run on a dyno and any mapping done at that point.

 

At present the car has

 

Greddy smic

Profec B 11 (to be chipped by J Dixon)

Lightened Pulleys

Dump valves

RPS Street Clutch and Firdanza Flywheel

Megan Decats (possibly to be replaced with Alunox front section)

ALunox rear exhaust

Tein Coilovers

Koyo Rad and Water Wetter

Stoptech 13" brakes (on order)

 

So, with the above, Ive got the cooling sorted, Handling and braking

 

Barry

 

Oil cooler. At least 25 row X 315mm wide.

 

1/2" min feed I'd go for 3/4, Remote filter and Feed from filter take off.

 

Better still Barry leave it alone as it is now unless you realy want to race. I wish I had.

I would not go down that route myself!

 

Mig wired deck face is the way to go IMHO.

 

tbh the mig way has only come from the cossies as they suffered from HG problems.

 

i know peterr doesnt like them but theres loads of big power cars running them with no issues what so ever as well as big power zeds in the us and around the world so i personally dont have any issues with using them :)

 

if i had the time/money tbh i would do both ie mig wire it and have a metal HG as well then its about as good as its gonna get lol

 

Mike

tbh the mig way has only come from the cossies as they suffered from HG problems.

 

 

 

No it has not!

 

It has been going on for years with many competition cars and it will hold more boost than a metal head gasket. I am not saying you cant use a metal HG I am saying I chose the mig wire because some one I have a lot of faith in swears by it.

It has nothing to do with what Peter likes LOL.

My oppinion is this is the way to go so dont knock it! :nono:

 

 

if i had the time/money tbh i would do both

 

Mike

 

If you dont have the time and the money then dont do it at all as you will get stung LOL :slap:

I think my metal HG will be fine ;)

 

Its interesting that you and a few others come to the conclusion about metal head gaskets but how many do you know of which have failed? i dont mean the question as a sarcy question i am genuinly interested because the only one i know of is adamr's and the gasket failed due to a faulty spark plug dropping its tip.

 

Mike

Thanks all, for all your help, suggestions and recommendations.

 

 

Barry