UK manual TT........Had engine out and fitted pair of standard tubs which where fine on the engine they came off of. Car boosts up ok reads just over halfway in the + on stock gauge, i know stock gauge isnt a very reliable reading.

 

What i want to know is what speed should i expect to reach in 1st gear when i boot it from a stand? at present i can get to about 25-30mph then engine just revs and the limiter kicks in, its quick to reach this speed but by the time i realise, the engine has reved and the limiter has kicked in. cant remember the car doing this with the other turbos before i siezed 1 up. Car dosnt fell as quick with these tubs, not sure if they came off a jap speck or an auto, im guessing tubs are the same throughout the range?

 

also noticed when normal driving boost gauge sits on 0 which is normal, but when i give it a bit of trottle needle flicks over to - untill i give it a bit more then goes to + is that normal as cant remember it doing this before either, prob just got crap memory lol. Car is standard apart from veilside evolution exhaust and stillen induction kit thanks

 

carl

eh? There are differences in the spool up (auto's spool quicker, less top end) but chaging turbos won't affect the speed you reach... just stop hitting the limiter, put it in second and enjoy ;)

43mph. This ain't gonna change no matter what you do to the engine.

 

edit - just over half way on the stock gauge sounds like safety boost which would be why it might feel slow. Of course, the stock gauge is total crap so take what it says with a pinch of salt.

43mph in 1st? im getting 25-30 top wack before engine hits the limiter i knew something was wrong and car not as fast, so what could it be? car just gets to this speed and wont give me anymore just revs untill limiter kicks in has got new clutch but dont feel as though its slipping

had a feeling could be in safety boost what do i do about that? as car would spin wheels easy in the dry now no chance

43mph. This ain't gonna change no matter what you do to the engine.

 

edit - just over half way on the stock gauge sounds like safety boost which would be why it might feel slow. Of course, the stock gauge is total crap so take what it says with a pinch of salt.

??????

If you really are only making 30 in first when on the limiter, the clutch is slipping.

 

There are a few things that could cause safety boost, detonation (likely with 95ron in this weather!), faulty det sensor/wiring, faulty water temp sensor/wiring, faulty boost solenoids/wiring (very unlikely). There is a LOT written up about this on the forum, use the search.

ita a new clutch, however i will look through past posts

 

thanks

ive got it the dreaded code 34 hopefully this will explain the above symptems. Question is what would caurse the sensor to fail, or if its faulty signal to the ecu?

 

had a good look around back of engine followed wire (white wire) down back of engine if im right it looks round with the white wire going into the back of it and the 2 bolts facing up? lol sorry about discription

 

would having the engine out and couple turbos fitted cause this to fail or if something isnt connected right? The job to replace the sensor dosnt look to difficult apart from stripping off inlet manifold as far as i can see

ive got it the dreaded code 34 hopefully this will explain the above symptems. Question is what would caurse the sensor to fail, or if its faulty signal to the ecu?

 

had a good look around back of engine followed wire (white wire) down back of engine if im right it looks round with the white wire going into the back of it and the 2 bolts facing up? lol sorry about discription

 

would having the engine out and couple turbos fitted cause this to fail or if something isnt connected right? The job to replace the sensor dosnt look to difficult apart from stripping off inlet manifold as far as i can see

 

I need a new sensor too as I have the dredded error code 34 and am running safety boost frequently. I believe they go due to the amount of heat in the engine, the sub harness could melt or anything. Thats why the sub harness should be replaced at same time as sensor.

 

I have rang The Zen Garage and MJP Autos and both said in order to change the sensor properly, the engine needs to be removed as there is so little space in the engine bay. A new sensor costs £170 and a new sub harness costs £30 from Nissan, so you're looking at £200 for parts. To have the engine removed you're looking at a minimum of £600 labour.

 

MJP Autos said the best thing to do is have the new sensor relocated to the rear of the engine, it will only be about 80% effecient but this will only take about 1 - 2 hours to fit (£40-£60 labour). This is better than bypassing it all together using a resistor. This is what I plan to have done!

 

HTH

Do you have a NA diff?

can you not just bypass the saftey boot, do you really need a det sensor?

My saftey boost is bypassed by my greddy boost controller

can you not just bypass the saftey boot, do you really need a det sensor?

My saftey boost is bypassed by my greddy boost controller

 

Yes the det sensor can be bypassed by a resistor, which is the common solution.

However, if your engine does ever suffer from detonation due to a bad ECU map or poor fuel then the ECU would not be able to change the ignition timing or put the turbos into safety boost. A boost controller would override the safety boost but the ignition timing etc is not affected by the boost controller. If the car is under a lot of load with high RPM, detonation can burn holes through your engine in seconds! :(

mine was working ok up untill i siezed a turbo had full boost prior to that, since having the engine out and other tubs put on ive only had safety boost, thats why i wondered if anything else could be wrong or affecting the sensor?

 

If the object im looking at, at the top rear of the engine just below the inlet manifold is the right thing then it looks as though it can come out by removing manifold.

 

I wonder if anyone has managed to do it? im not keen on bypassing it seems to much of a risk. Am thinking of having car chipped and boost controller fitted which would bypass the det sensor, but am wondering if a boost controller is fitted and the det sensor is working properly will the car still have the protection of safety boost if the engine was to start detonating?