Gonna be converting in next few week so will probably change any bushes, seals at the same time. Anyone got a list of anything worth changing & any part numbers?

 

Jay

The rear crankshaft oil seal is a must and only costs about £15 and with everything off is easy. Apart from that a few pipes are visible at the back of the engine which are worth inspecting and replacing if necessary. make sure your manual propshaft centre bearing and UJ's are OK. Good luck with the conversion, its not that difficult. make sure you have all the neccessary parts available. Me and my son done it in a day, started at 9.30 and was driving it by 4 o'clock in the afternoon. There is some sweat and swearing involved.

change the cams and the turbos and the ecu

CAms, turbos and ecu? Makes it a really expensive converstion then surly! I know the autos turbos are abit smaller, but thought plenty of people were still using them with the manual gearbox?

 

Also was under the impression you could use the auto ecu with the manual gearbox?

CAms, turbos and ecu? Makes it a really expensive converstion then surly! I know the autos turbos are abit smaller, but thought plenty of people were still using them with the manual gearbox?

 

Also was under the impression you could use the auto ecu with the manual gearbox?

Yes you are right you do not need to change these.

deffo make sure youve got a good clutch with the conversion (although i gather its a PITA to take the thing apart to tell). see if you can up your budget slightly for an uprated clutch and flywheel.

Spoke to Mike Feeney today & he recommended -

Rear engine seal

Rear gearbox seal

Gear lever bushes

Gear lever rubber gaiters

Master & slave cylinder seals (rebuild kits)

 

I'll get part numbers & prices after I've ordered & stick them in the FAQ area.

 

Camshaft, ECU & turbos? Obviously you have no idea what you are talking about LOL.

 

Got RPS clutch & Fidanza flywheel going in too so no probs there & have a friend helping me who is an expert in auto>manual conversion so hopefully have that done in a day too.

 

Cheers

Jay

You will need flywheel to crankshaft bolts, clutch cover plate bolts and the spigot bush that fits in the end of the crankshaft. Don't bother to change the brake pedal, just cut it down normal size and fit a standard pedal rubber. You will also need a bolt that fixes the clutch pedal to the bulkhead at the top. A right pain to get in.

Camshaft, ECU & turbos? Obviously you have no idea what you are talking about LOL.

T-pot knows what he is talking about, he has had an Auto engine transplanted into his manual zed and regrets not changing the cams and tubs (they provide better low down response but produce less overall and peak power)

 

You asked whats worth changing....not whats needs to be changed ;)

You will need flywheel to crankshaft bolts, clutch cover plate bolts and the spigot bush that fits in the end of the crankshaft. Don't bother to change the brake pedal, just cut it down normal size and fit a standard pedal rubber. You will also need a bolt that fixes the clutch pedal to the bulkhead at the top. A right pain to get in.

 

no you dont there is the assy control box on the auto which is bolted in place,once removed and pulled out the way,fit pedal in to bulkhead using the same placement and bolt

T-pot knows what he is talking about, he has had an Auto engine transplanted into his manual zed and regrets not changing the cams and tubs (they provide better low down response but produce less overall and peak power)

the profiles are slightly differant,but in a realistic world notice a differance and are you really going to pull the engine if your soley going to do a manual conversion :smash:

 

 

 

to add you can use a braided line and run direct from master-slave rather than using the over engineered pipework that nissan used much easier and saves alot of time

 

also if your splicing the inhibiter for the starter instead of removing the wing,remove o/s wheel and undo bolts to wheel arch liner,you can then gain access

 

you can avoid using a seperated intake manifold,and instead take a feed of the brake servo- for clutch booster

 

saves a total time of around 3hours

All the best jay, i shall keep my little knowledge to myself.

Cheers mate, with the helpful reply of -

change the cams and the turbos and the ecu

It's obvious you're a gold mine of information ;)

Cheers mate, with the helpful reply of -

 

It's obvious you're a gold mine of information ;)

 

 

Take it from someone has done this..........

and if your so quick so slag people off for offering their knowledge, then why the fook do you need to ask in the first place?????

 

cam profiles are different, as are the turbos.

 

if you fit the engine into a manual gearbox car, you will be down on bhp by quite a bit, changing these parts will raise it back to around the stock for a manual car.

 

money is, you wont get a lot of help now should you need it in the future for your comments

T-pot knows what he is talking about, he has had an Auto engine transplanted into his manual zed and regrets not changing the cams and tubs (they provide better low down response but produce less overall and peak power)

 

You asked whats worth changing....not whats needs to be changed ;)

 

 

i guess jay has an over worked mouth and an under worked brain mate

LOL how do you expect me to take you seriously when you reply telling me to replace some of the major parts of the car involving taking the engine out & apart, while offering no insight or reasoning for doing so. If you had read the initial post you'd have seen I mentioned seals & bushes, not spending best part of £3k changing major engine components.

I have driven both auto & manual Zs as well as manual converted Zs & have not found any noticable difference. When you start cranking the boost up it's relatively irrelevant anyways.

If you'd have had anything of value to say in this thread I'm sure you would have put it in your first post, instead of your vauge reply, unless you wanted me to beg you to tell me why I should change my turbos at the same time :rolleyes:

:headvswal :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal

 

cock. on ignore from now on, ive had a tit full of people with a mouth like fooking newport tunnel

Fook me :D Just found this thread :D In answer, auto engine will actually give better acceleration due to increased torque, but lower top speeds (lets face it, when do you get to test the absolute top speed in the uk?). Not good for bragging rights on tesco car park maybe, but for all out fast-road use, probably better ;)

Fook me :D Just found this thread :D In answer, auto engine will actually give better acceleration due to increased torque, but lower top speeds (lets face it, when do you get to test the absolute top speed in the uk?). Not good for bragging rights on tesco car park maybe, but for all out fast-road use, probably better ;)

 

 

this is the thing, yet bob from no 12 knows all :smash: :rolleyes:

Don't diss T-Pot as he was only trying to help you fella and didn't say you HAD to change those parts the same way I'm telling you the differences I found when putting an auto engine in my manual car.

As the auto turbos are slightly smaller people say you lose some peak power if you use them on a manual engine. I sold the auto tubs and went for new manual ones but that was just my choice. I also used the manual intake cams to put into the auto engine as they are different.

Fook me :D Just found this thread :D In answer, auto engine will actually give better acceleration due to increased torque, but lower top speeds (lets face it, when do you get to test the absolute top speed in the uk?). Not good for bragging rights on tesco car park maybe, but for all out fast-road use, probably better ;)

 

Better low down response, slightly less lag

but less top end and less potential power increase when increasing boost.

 

Quicker acceleration - Probably not...... increased torque..no.

 

Any differences between the two are not hugely noticable.

Better torque spread YES!!!! The changes were made to take advantage of the auto boxes TORQUE converter (wonder who thought that name up :D ). So better acceleration YES!!! Also, ask anyone (preferably who actually has a clue) who has done the conversion and you will always get the same answer, the car is QUICKER!!!!

Yep, definitely feels quicker. Third gear is fantastic 1

just did my auto to manual conversion and its right what everyone says... there is a lot of swaring.

Now just when I thought it was nearly finished I found that the TT and the N/A have different propshafts.

Anyone got a prop for a manual N/A that they wish to either sell me or do a deal on a TT one???

Better torque spread YES!!!! The changes were made to take advantage of the auto boxes TORQUE converter (wonder who thought that name up :D ). So better acceleration YES!!! Also, ask anyone (preferably who actually has a clue) who has done the conversion and you will always get the same answer, the car is QUICKER!!!!

 

Quicker than when it was auto...yes definatly!

 

..but an Auto engine with Manual box quicker than an original Manual...not in my experience. Differences are negligble in stock form, but with increased boost on stock tubs the original manual pulls harder.

 

but you can drive 10 zed's of similar spec and they all feel different to each other.