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hi after selling my zx a year ago ive regreted it ever since but managed to do a deal and swap my audi a4 for another one so hear i am again trying to get all the probs sorted anyway the car is a k reg uk spec 2+2 tt and am having a problem with clutch slip the car has had =

 

new clutch kit

new slave cylinder

new master cylinder

 

when cold the clucth feels fine with a little free play at the top of the pedal and is disengaging around half way down but as the car warms up the biting piont slowly rises untill its biting right at the top at which time the clutch will slip once left for a few hours all is fine again

any ideas ? :confused:

 

and the other problem im having is that the heater blows hot all of the time regardless of what temp i set it to on the climate control panel is there a valve or a flap which could be stciking or needs replacing ?

 

thx for any help in advance and dam its good to be back in a zed :D :D :D

Featured Replies

Do you know what Fluid was used when all the Clutch components were fitted? sounds like the Fluid is boiling. check the colour of it.

 

The only other thing i can thing off at the moment is the Check valve has gone south on the Booster circuit.

  • Author

k changed the brake fluid this evening and took it out after about 10 mins of driving i could feel the biting piont rising and the free play being taken up, after 20 mins the pedal has no free play and by this time the clutch is sliping even off boost in first gear so managed to get her home and had a look at the fluid again and it looks to be normal

 

really getting confused now :confused:

try checking the flexi hose mate these can break up internaly and act like a one way valve have see,n it happen on brake line flexi,s a few times now.

Are you using dot3 or dot4 brake and clutch fluid? As far as i am aware zed's require dot3.

Did you Fit the Clutch Kit? ive had cars in with this problem but it turn out to be the Pressure plate as the springs had gone so when it heats up there is no pressure produced by it at all.

Also, check and make sure the lines arnt near any heat sources, as said, the stainless lines are a very good option - if this is your problem

i would get the clutch looked at,the stock clutch is not up to the job,if you are running any additional boost,it will kill the plate very quickly the material just aint up to it,rps sport is a great clutch and good value,not to heavy either,and you wont need to replace the clutch for a long time

 

get the flywheel checked/skimmed whilst your there

  • Author

had a good look under neath on a ramp today and can see that the clutch is new as is the flywheel, ring gear ,flexi hoses ,master and slave cylinder i know the standard clutch aint great but surely it should be able to be able to take it driving off boost in first gear ?

 

im fairly sure the problem is a hydraulic one and the fluid isnt returning to the master cylinder properly and can feel that it is pressurising the system when hot so am gonna pull the cylinders and such off and inspect them on a bench to be sure then refit bleed with some dot 5 fluid as it has a higher boiling piont than dot 3 or 4

 

ill keep ya posted on how i get on :)

I reckon you have some air in the fluid. It heats up, expands and takes up the slack. Then you as you depress the clutch the air compresses, but not enough to compensate for all the expansion.

 

Bleeding the cltch can be a bugger, I usually remove the slave cylinder from the car so that the nipple is in the right place.

  • Author

had another good look round the car this evening and after pulling some wring loom aside i noticed that the new pipe which was fitted from the master cylinder to the small block under the brake servo was routed only a inch from the top of the o/s turbo rather than behind the heat shield on the bulkhead :eek:

 

so took it out and made a new one long enough to be routed correctly, bled with new fluid and took it out and so far so good the pedal feels perfect :D

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