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As above, when i start to accelarate i hear a fast tapping noise coming from the engine.

Also i still have the oil leak, andone got any ideas?

Im about to fill the oil up again before i got out :headvswal

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I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

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could be the cam followers starved of oil? if your oil is low, that wont help either mate, try topping it back up and see if it goes

  • Author

thats what i was thinking but there is still some oil in the car, according to the dipstick anyway. just bought a 4 litre thing of oil yesterday though so i shall be putting that in today before i go out

Membership No 0780

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I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

if the oil is thin it will do it, also if you recently run low, it can take a while i believe sometimes to get back on top.

Check that the noise is coming from the top of the engine. if so Prolly just a sticky tappet. Get the engine flushed and use a good oil like Pro S.

IF the noise is coming from the bottom end of the engine and becomes more pronounced at 2500rpm's and above and is constant with engine speed then you may have a big end failure in which it wise not to drive the car anymore as you may be able to catch it on time before any major damage is done.

 

A tappet will be heard at idle and light revs, to check for a bottom end noise, put the car in 3rd or 4th at low revs and give it some gun, if you get the knocking then its defo bottom end trouble :-(

Maybe it would be cheaper to get a £100 banger bird? and get the zed off the road. Driving round with such a serious oil leak is very risky. It'll cost you £100 in oil anyhow.

  • Author
Check that the noise is coming from the top of the engine. if so Prolly just a sticky tappet. Get the engine flushed and use a good oil like Pro S.

IF the noise is coming from the bottom end of the engine and becomes more pronounced at 2500rpm's and above and is constant with engine speed then you may have a big end failure in which it wise not to drive the car anymore as you may be able to catch it on time before any major damage is done.

 

A tappet will be heard at idle and light revs, to check for a bottom end noise, put the car in 3rd or 4th at low revs and give it some gun, if you get the knocking then its defo bottom end trouble :-(

 

 

It doesn't knock.

And only seems to do it after the car has been sitting for a little while.

Does seem to happen only when i accelarate though, i don't think i could hear it at idle

Membership No 0780

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Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

Whens the last time it had an oil change, and what type of oil and filter were used?

Zeds are reknowned for being a little tappety especially on start up until oil pressure is built up.

May be worth giving the engine a good flush incase theres any crud on the Hyd.Tappets and re-filling with Pro S 10-50 - cures lot of them.

Oh and get the oil leak sorted - could be a cause for lossing oil pressure, which can seriously destroy an engine, especially a hot one.

  • Author
Whens the last time it had an oil change, and what type of oil and filter were used?

Zeds are reknowned for being a little tappety especially on start up until oil pressure is built up.

May be worth giving the engine a good flush incase theres any crud on the Hyd.Tappets and re-filling with Pro S 10-50 - cures lot of them.

 

Im waiting to hear back from the warranty company about the parts for the engine (leak).

I did have full synthetic 10-50 oil in the engine. and the oil got changed a month ago when the engine got put in the car. (It was a new engine if you didn't know)

Membership No 0780

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I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

Ahh didnt know it was a warranted engine, i wouldnt be happy with that especially if its only been in a month

I aint taking the piss Bird teaching an old lady how to suck eggs and all but.... If something is tapping then this indicates that some component is hitting another one as it spins. Cams and cranks run in constant contact therefore they dont rattle or tap. This being the case mate stop using the car as the tapping is going to get worst as the striking between the two components is going to wear. the easiest way to locate the noise is to get a largish long screw driver hold the driver end against the engine block and the handle in your ear. as you move the driver around the engine the noise will get louder the nearer the fault you get. once you locate it then you will have more idea what it might be. BUT! dont use the car until you can suss it out mate. you will end up sorry.

 

HTH mate Vince.

  • Author
I aint taking the piss Bird teaching an old lady how to suck eggs and all but.... If something is tapping then this indicates that some component is hitting another one as it spins. Cams and cranks run in constant contact therefore they dont rattle or tap. This being the case mate stop using the car as the tapping is going to get worst as the striking between the two components is going to wear. the easiest way to locate the noise is to get a largish long screw driver hold the driver end against the engine block and the handle in your ear. as you move the driver around the engine the noise will get louder the nearer the fault you get. once you locate it then you will have more idea what it might be. BUT! dont use the car until you can suss it out mate. you will end up sorry.

 

HTH mate Vince.

 

 

I shall get it looked at asap

Membership No 0780

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Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

if its any kinda conselation dude, I finally got mine working to good degree :) all i need to sort out now is a radiator and it should be sorted, havent had quite the problems you have but ive had enough!

 

In the past 3 months ive got through 4 head gaskets, 2 heads (BOTH split! :o), blown oil seals, split cast on the oil filter neck (pissing oil out), constant over heating, and knackered turbos....think thats it...took it for its first proper drive in a LONG time last night and it was great, found myself on an empty carpark hehe, you know what came next...so if u keep at it you will get there buddy :)

 

*Just a bit of support for bird here*

  • Author

lol, glad its all working mate.

I just cant beleive my bad luck really, i dont know if the engine isok or not, its going to be getting a compression test done in the next few days

Membership No 0780

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Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

look at it this way, with the amount of stuff you have replaced, when its is all working sweet nothing should break for a LONG time lol

  • Author
look at it this way, with the amount of stuff you have replaced, when its is all working sweet nothing should break for a LONG time lol

 

i can only live in hope

Membership No 0780

INSURANCE GOOFA

Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

  • Author
or it could be detination

 

 

Oh, i didn't think of that, it could well be now you have said that.

Not good at all. :(

How do i go about checking if this is the case though?

Membership No 0780

INSURANCE GOOFA

Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

or it could be detination

it aint going to be det at idle,this will only occur whilst on boost,and will really only be noticable at low RPMS

 

bird try not to get confused with detonation/lifter noises as said get it checked out!

 

it may be due to low oil pressure and the fact the lifters are always the first to suffer due to where they are,at the top of the engine last place oil reaches :(

 

so until your leak is sorted this will not be resolved,and left like it may cause damage to the topend,and then work down to the bottom end,its not unusual for a sticky lifter to tap,you can try a small cup of ATF then a good flush and fresh oil&filter change,but TBH id get a cheap runaround and get the car sorted once and for all,then go from there!

 

all the best

  • Author

It does only happen at low RPM, il wel i put my foot down to accelarate, not heard it at idle.

 

i want to take it too a specialist for them to look it all over once and for all.

Any traders want to offer and ill come down.

 

The sooner the better as well.

Membership No 0780

INSURANCE GOOFA

Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

Take the car back to the garage that fitted the engine and insist that the oil leak is sorted 'NOW', and also tell them its 'pinking' which is garage talk for 'detonation'. They can then check the timing, which if too advanced would cause detonation. Does your Datascan confirm the ignition timing on tick over is 15 degrees ? If you car is getting detonation on Optimax, that is either timing or perhaps a boost leak. MAKE them (the garage) sort it out, you have already paid for it in your warranty.

  • Author
Take the car back to the garage that fitted the engine and insist that the oil leak is sorted 'NOW', and also tell them its 'pinking' which is garage talk for 'detonation'. They can then check the timing, which if too advanced would cause detonation. Does your Datascan confirm the ignition timing on tick over is 15 degrees ? If you car is getting detonation on Optimax, that is either timing or perhaps a boost leak. MAKE them (the garage) sort it out, you have already paid for it in your warranty.

 

 

The garage didn'tprovide the engine, just put it in the car, the warranty is with the engine provider

Membership No 0780

INSURANCE GOOFA

Datascan, Conzult, ECUTalk and a few others

I have all the rare bits you can't find :tongue::tongue:

 

The garage didn'tprovide the engine, just put it in the car, the warranty is with the engine provider

 

 

Yes but im sure the garage have a duty when fitting the engine that it is installed with correct timing?

Yes but im sure the garage have a duty when fitting the engine that it is installed with correct timing?

Surely anything to do with getting an engine running properly after instalation is down to the garage that installed it!

 

Only if an actual fault is then found is it the engine provider's problem.

 

Anyway, best of luck Bird.

I admire your determination to get this car sorted rather than just chucking it in. :bow:

I hope you can get to enjoy it one day soon.

Surely anything to do with getting an engine running properly after instalation is down to the garage that installed it!

 

Only if an actual fault is then found is it the engine provider's problem.

 

Anyway, best of luck Bird.

I admire your determination to get this car sorted rather than just chucking it in. :bow:

I hope you can get to enjoy it one day soon.

 

 

I have to agree with you mate,bird i amire you as well

 

BUT it now must be the time to get the Z sorted properly once and for all.

 

I know you have said you cant afford to take it to a specialist but if you carry on running the car in its current stasus you will only end up throwing more money on 'fix it quick' jobs.

 

It looks like to me the engine has serious setting up issues and needs a good checkover with theproblems resolved-at least you will know whats working and whats not and can replace the parts.It seems so far yo have probably replaced parts that didnt need changing as the car isnt running the way it is you will always end up a multitude of problems which changing parts that dont need changing wont affect the way it is.With the timing and tps issues you have the car will NEVER run the way it should and wil just cause more harm than good in the long run.

 

Sorry to be so negative but its my honest opinion.

 

All the best

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