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Bugger...i thought it would pass!

 

It's failed on the left hicas joint so i now have 2 weeks to sort it. i'm thinking of putting an eliminator in, as it's disabled at the moment anyway. Does the eliminator totally remove all the hicas joints or just the rack? If its just the rack would i still need to get a new joint??

 

Thanks...

 

Stuart.

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Bugger...i thought it would pass!

 

It's failed on the left hicas joint so i now have 2 weeks to sort it. i'm thinking of putting an eliminator in, as it's disabled at the moment anyway. Does the eliminator totally remove all the hicas joints or just the rack? If its just the rack would i still need to get a new joint??

 

Thanks...

 

Stuart.

I am sure its just the Rack and you need to use your old Joints!

Speak to Danny@dta-motorsport or Chris@getgreddy and i think Smithy may sell these too! They know more about what you need to keep! and sell the HIcas Eliminators!

If I can remember you don't necessarly have to take it back within 2 weeks as they now have to keep your car for 40mins and do various test again.

You need to buy the Hicas arm as well, as long as the steering rack isn't knacked.

As i understand it, the joint on the outboard end of the hicas arms are part of the arms and cant be replaced without changing the whole arm. HICAS eliminator won't make any differene if these joints are warn.

I wish there was a way to do away with the whole ruddy lot... I just know mines gonna fail too :(

If you're putting in a HICAS eliminator bar and you don't replace the HICAS arms then the car will still fail the MOT because there will be play in the arms. Best thing to do is replace the arms and then consider whether you really want to eliminate the HICAS system. I know this is all down to personal preference but my HICAS is working fine and I'm happy with it.

 

By the way, HICAS arms are quite expensive from Nissan (can't remember how much but it was on the bad side of a hundred squids).

 

Dan

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