Hi all,

 

Been a while, taken 2 years for Nobles to complete my engine. finally got it back, but im not happy...

 

ok so here goes...

 

[iGNITION ON]

 

Not a problem

 

Batt Light ON

Anti Lock ON

Fuel Pump Check ON

Light (Works fine when brake pedal pressed)

 

[CRANK ENGINE]

 

Takes a few turns, but to be expected with a brand new engine...

 

[ENGINE RUNNING]

 

Batt Light HALF ON (dims gradually, but is always slightly on)

Anti Lock ON (for a while then goes off as Batt Light dims)

Speedo (Randomly just stops registering speed, goes to zero, never works again until re-ignition)

Turbo Gauge DEAD (see fuse issue below)

Power Steering RANDOMLY DIES and comes back to life when driving, worse if engines just started.

Light ON Permanently regardless of whether im pressing the brake or not.

 

I noticed a fuse had blown in the box on the right of the engine bay, the fuse nearest if you are in front of the car, so i replaced the fuse, WOAH, turbo guage works, COOL.... 2 hours later, nothing, popped fuse again...

 

ANY IDEAS??? Driving me nute.. :headvswal

 

(blue smoking too, bearing in mind i just spent £13000 on this fully steel engine) :rant:

 

Regards,

 

Not a happy chap! John

sounds like a faulty alternator or battery

 

measure the voltage across the battery terminals with running engine.

should be approx. 14Volt

Id say the Speedo and Power steering problems are probably linked as PS system has an input from the speedo via the ECU.

Strangely, other people have suggested the same! Just wanted some opinions from people from these forums too, lot of experts on ere.

 

Anyone else agree with alternator fault? How much are they and where can i get one? Mines a Jap import...

The fuse you have a problem with is most likely the one marked "engine Cont" this is a main fuse for the electrical charging and operating system ie the abs, On Uk cars this also powers the rear diff light and cooler pump.

 

This circuit is multi connected and has many branches off so can be a bit problematic to find any fault, however take a look at the alternator loom ( sorry a bit awkward ) where it connects into the main car loom ( front drivers side chassis leg area) this would most likely have been diconnected when the engine was removed, if it was notdisconnetcted maybe it got pulled when the engine was taken out and a fault caused.

 

 

Daveman

The fuse you have a problem with is most likely the one marked "engine Cont" this is a main fuse for the electrical charging and operating system ie the abs, On Uk cars this also powers the rear diff light and cooler pump.

 

This circuit is multi connected and has many branches off so can be a bit problematic to find any fault, however take a look at the alternator loom ( sorry a bit awkward ) where it connects into the main car loom ( front drivers side chassis leg area) this would most likely have been diconnected when the engine was removed, if it was notdisconnetcted maybe it got pulled when the engine was taken out and a fault caused.

 

 

Daveman

 

Rear Diff Light? where is that on my dash? could my rear diff not be getting cooled enough?

 

Its the 10AMP fuse mate, cant remember what it says on the box, the front most fuse.

Yes that will be the fuse I mentioned, light on dash for rear diff cooler is ONLY on UK spec the fuse serves it so if it blown will show a warning of power failure to the circuit NOT a diff cooling issue, sorry I confuse the issue the way I explained it.

 

The circuit has a fault, until that is found the car eill NOT run correctly, the recent work is likely to have been the culprit, the alternator harness is most suspect.

 

Some smoke from a recent rebuild engine is not uncommon and provided it not excessive and starts to lessens is acceptable ( £13K is a lot of money for an engine though got to say!) sometimes oil / smoke from the exhaust is from the last engine if it failed and sent oil down the system.

 

Daveman

Yes that will be the fuse I mentioned, light on dash for rear diff cooler is ONLY on UK spec the fuse serves it so if it blown will show a warning of power failure to the circuit NOT a diff cooling issue, sorry I confuse the issue the way I explained it.

 

The circuit has a fault, until that is found the car eill NOT run correctly, the recent work is likely to have been the culprit, the alternator harness is most suspect.

 

Some smoke from a recent rebuild engine is not uncommon and provided it not excessive and starts to lessens is acceptable ( £13K is a lot of money for an engine though got to say!) sometimes oil / smoke from the exhaust is from the last engine if it failed and sent oil down the system.

 

Daveman

 

Yeah Dave, i wish the blue smoke issue was a simple "old oil in the exhaust" problem, but i get stacks of the stuff billowing out after revving or overrun, on idle there is light smoke. Its deffo oil too cuz its blue and it stinks :confused:

 

Nobles reckon its the tubs because they have little pressure, so the seals leak into exhausts, does this sound right, on overrun??? The tubs are brand spankin too :eek:

Yeah Dave, i wish the blue smoke issue was a simple "old oil in the exhaust" problem, but i get stacks of the stuff billowing out after revving or overrun, on idle there is light smoke. Its deffo oil too cuz its blue and it stinks :confused:

 

Nobles reckon its the tubs because they have little pressure, so the seals leak into exhausts, does this sound right, on overrun??? The tubs are brand spankin too :eek:

 

oh yeah, the tubs have little pressure because im running it in, they disabled them using the actuators or something....oh i dunno, :rofl:

sounds like a faulty alternator or battery

 

measure the voltage across the battery terminals with running engine.

should be approx. 14Volt

 

Agree with this

Agree with this

 

Looks like im gonna have to buy a new multimeter then :hyper:

 

Thanks people :bow:

Have you checked all the earths???

Lymon is an expert :D