hi guys, i'm looking to remove my viscious fan,is there an electric fan kit for the zed or is it a universal thing? also i will be running a lightened underdrive pulley which i hear slows down the water pump,should i upgrade my radiator at the same time to stop any overheating?

 

thanks in advance :bow:

 

Paul

Pacett or Kenlow do fan kits.

 

If you get onto Deemon Tweeks they can supply you with a thermo probe/switch which sits in you to hose and you can pre set the temp that the fan kicks in.

Dont get rid of the viscous fan i know a few d1 drift guys have done a twin fan conversion and had overheating problems and know have converted back to the viscous as well .The minimum hp gain 2/3 from doing this conversion is not worth risking killling a expensive engine .I know they sound crap but live with it .

Dont get rid of the viscous fan i know a few d1 drift guys have done a twin fan conversion and had overheating problems and know have converted back to the viscous as well .The minimum hp gain 2/3 from doing this conversion is not worth risking killling a expensive engine .I know they sound crap but live with it .

 

I think it is more likely that their over heating problems are due to crappy standard rads, fans that arn'tup to the job, or most common thing I've seen is the new Pacett wired up to the original elecy fan switch :nono:

 

You must use a good thermo prob and switch. You must also have the fan run through a relay switch so as not to cause voltage drops every time it switched in.

 

I have a 21" Pacett in a custom made Rad and when it kicks in if your stood infront of the car You get sucked in and minsed

thanks guys,i will look into it,dont fancy overheating :headvswal

 

Paul

better spend your money on an accurate water temp gauge.

Have done the 16" Kenlowe fan conversion on mine back in October and with much success!!! Provide you get the right size you WILL NOT get any overheating problems as a the viscouse fan clutch only engages when it needs to!!

 

Performance gains we're good too as we did a before and after dyno test, gaining 18.3BHP extra with the Kenlowe installed!!! When the Kenlowe cuts in it only saps 0.4BHP as the alternator is having to do some work, but yeah my Z'ed is now more a lot more responsive from the bottom end and cause there is no viscouse fan shouroude the rad also benifit from extra flow!!

 

Check out piccies!!

 

 

 

 

 

If your worried about overheating then don't.. Just get some bonnett vents put in!! ;)

18BHP for a fan swap... thats loads, no wonder the car feels more responsive.. for those kind of gains could be very tempted to bin the vis.fan! for 2-3 bhp wasnt going to bother!

18BHP for a fan swap... thats loads, no wonder the car feels more responsive.. for those kind of gains could be very tempted to bin the vis.fan! for 2-3 bhp wasnt going to bother!

 

Yeah, even I was supprised and wasn't expecting that much...It seems as soon as a ZXTT us up to operating temp the viscouse clutch tends to kick in or even worse it might be perminently engaged on some cars if the clutch is knackered or stuck so of course it always sapping power.. Think about it, your engine is doing 6000+ RPM, your fan is rotating like a b/\stard and then how much drag that's all causing!!!

 

An electric fan spins at much higher RPM than a viscouse and offers better cooling due to the design and number of the fins and plus when your doing 2000Rpm crusing and the fan cuts in - it's spinning at max RPM so cools your rad quicker and also the fan is only operating for about 30sec till the temp regains normal levels!!! :hyper:

Jon how often do you find the fan cuts in, and how noisy is it ?

 

Does it come with some sort of thermosat control, and you've set it to come on at a set temp ?

Jon how often do you find the fan cuts in, and how noisy is it ?

 

Does it come with some sort of thermosat control, and you've set it to come on at a set temp ?

 

Yeah, the good thing about the Kenlowe is that it comes with an adjustable thermostat which has markings on it adjustable from C (COLD) N (NORMAL) AND H (HOT) you can also add in a manual switch if you like.. I have set mine about 2 notches up from Normal cause once again if you have it set directly on N which is operating Temp the bloody thing will run all the time!!! :xxx:

 

2 notches up from N seems to be fine so when the temp does rise a little over normal operating temp it cuts in for about 30 Seconds so generally speaking if your on a run it will only cut in when you slow down to driving around town speeds...

 

When your giving the Z a good blast, it doesn't come on because there generally seems to be sufficient air flow going through the rad and intercoolers so really it's only if your stuck in traffic or driving slowly that it needs to come on..

 

It's amazing the ammount of air it shifts too, and you can only hear it when the engine is switched off and most of that noise is air being moved!!! :bow:

what sort of price was your kit all in? self fit or get a garage to do it for you?

Here you go mate hope this helps, found the linky when I first installed it!

 

I self fitted it with help from my mate at my tuning place, it wasn't all plane sailing as I was fitting dump valves but like they say - easy when you know how!!! Could do it totally alone now I know how it all fits into place.. ;)

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=58378&highlight=kenlowe

hi jon, that sounds great,any idea where i get a kenlowe kit from :cool:

 

thanks again

 

Paul

Couple of choices really, try deamon tweeks or contact my tuning place Richards Bros on 01209 212234 and ask for David or Paul who know my car inside out... They can supply you with the kit you need!! Don't foget I got mine at a bit of a discount cause i've known them for years but you'll still get it for a good price!!! ;)

 

Cheers, Jon

You need to have a good quality temp gauge so you can set the themostate to kick in at 84 C. Both Pacett and Kenlow com with the thermo probe and switch, but without a very accurate temp gauge you could be damaging you engine.