Only 4 weeks into Zed ownership and I've met another AA man and travelled another journey in a low loader :(

 

When trying to start the car, there was lots of loud and rapid ticking and flashing antics from the indicators and alarm system. Diagnosis, flat battery (phew!).

 

Unfortunately, although the car started with some assistance from a booster battery, the battery still showed 11V while running (should have been 14.5). The alternator warning light isn't but it's definately not charging properly.

 

I've looked at the wiring diagram in the service manual and it seems that the connection to the warning light is seperate from the connection to the battery (which runs through the fusible link). I plan to check all these connections this evening, what's the best way to access the alternator connections, from the top or from underneath. I'm expecting everyone to say underneath but as I don't fancy lying on a concrete floor in the freezing cold, I thought I'd check.

 

Of course, if it isn't a connection issue I'll have to recon the alternator, the removal of which sounds a little tricky (involving removing roll bars and such like). Why is it always the most inaccessible components that fail?

 

Cheers,

 

Ian A.

Ian - my altenator failed without any warning - no red light on the dash. Best access is from underneath (only access I think unless you want to remove all of the front of the car). It's a pig of a job but it can be done. Took me about 3 hours to remove and replace (91 NA Auto). I made the mistake of buying a 2nd hand altenator (£40) and when I'd fitted it, the red light glowed a little - although it was reading just the right numbers when charging - so it was going to die soon.

 

As I was to do a cam belt change soon, I bought a new (nissan) altenator - £153, but never fitted it as I sold the car and bought a newer one.

 

So - good luck, and if you want a new altenator, I've one for sale.

 

cheerz

 

Jack

:( Sorry to hear about your problems! I'm very familiar with the clicky flashy business at start up. My first red zed did that to me once - not great. I got away with just a new battery that time.

 

Not likely to help you in this case but I haven't forgotten the datascan stuff. Its sitting next to me in a jiffy bag and will be on its way down to you in the post tonight.

 

David

:( Sorry to hear about your problems! I'm very familiar with the clicky flashy business at start up. My first red zed did that to me once - not great. I got away with just a new battery that time.

 

Not likely to help you in this case but I haven't forgotten the datascan stuff. Its sitting next to me in a jiffy bag and will be on its way down to you in the post tonight.

 

David

 

Cheers David,

 

I'm not overly bothered about the Zed, I usually break down much farther from home! Also, my girlfriends scare tactics of "it's making a horrible noise when I try to start it" sounded much more expensive.

 

It was quite amusing when the AA man turned on the lights saying "This'll make it cut out again". Not with the candle-power lights on a Zed mate. It ran happily for another 30 minutes with the heater on full whack.

 

Never mind, at least I had my reliable TVR to get to work this morning. There's two words you don't often see in the same sentence!

 

Datascan stuff would be great, it'll give me something to play with while waiting at the local auto electricians! ;)

 

Cheers,

 

Ian.

Only 4 weeks into Zed ownership and I've met another AA man and travelled another journey in a low loader :(

 

When trying to start the car, there was lots of loud and rapid ticking and flashing antics from the indicators and alarm system. Diagnosis, flat battery (phew!).

 

As Silverfox says above, I had this when my battery went kaput... I checked the alternator (well a sparky mate did!!) and it was fine - just a duff battery. may be worth swapping in a good batery if you can and checking the running voltage with that??

 

Think my battery died from lack of use/ jump starting too often... plus the fact it was god knows how old!

 

Rich

OK, I'm starting to wish I'd never started this.

 

I've removed the splash guard, the anti-roll bar brackets and both bolts for the alternator. However it still doesn't want to move.

 

The guide says to put a lever bar between the alternator and bracket and lever it forwards. Apart from the fact that I don't have a lever bar, I can't see where I should be levering. I can't get anything to the back of the alternator as the suspension arms are in the way.

 

There's a lot of delicate looking stuff so I want to make sure I'm not breaking anything.

 

Please advise ASAP as I have the day off work to do this.

 

Thanks,

 

Ian A.

Ian - disconnected all of the electrical connections to it as well? These are tight and could be holding it in place - and you've removed the long pivot bolt too? From memory it falls onto you when everythig's disconnected.

 

And just to cheer you up, re-fitting is more difficult as gravity's not on your side.

 

Good luck

 

Jack

I AM A GREASE MONKEY! :hyper:

 

All be it the slowest one in the world. Only 5 hours to remove 1 alternator :eek:

 

I managed to work out which direction to lever alternator in (downwards) only to find that there's nothing to rest it on while you undo the wiring. It's a pretty heavy lump when dropped onto your head from 6 inches!

 

It then took another hour to work out how to remove the plastic connector on the back (theres a locking tab near the alternator body) and the other two bolt connections (8mm and 10mm spanners in the end).

 

Now all I have to do is get it fixed! I think it's broken because it's been bathed in power steering fluid, there 's a lot of gloop down there and it appears to be sprouting from the connection on the power steering pump. Some light spannering action should fix that, after all, I am a pro now!

 

Ta for tha advice,

 

Ian A.

Ian - get it tested before you put it back on. Otherwise when you have to remove it again because it still dosn't work - you'll be elevated from the grease monkey status to club expert.

 

Good luck

 

Jack

I AM A GREASE MONKEY! :hyper:

 

All be it the slowest one in the world. Only 5 hours to remove 1 alternator :eek:

 

I managed to work out which direction to lever alternator in (downwards) only to find that there's nothing to rest it on while you undo the wiring. It's a pretty heavy lump when dropped onto your head from 6 inches!

 

It then took another hour to work out how to remove the plastic connector on the back (theres a locking tab near the alternator body) and the other two bolt connections (8mm and 10mm spanners in the end).

 

Now all I have to do is get it fixed! I think it's broken because it's been bathed in power steering fluid, there 's a lot of gloop down there and it appears to be sprouting from the connection on the power steering pump. Some light spannering action should fix that, after all, I am a pro now!

 

Ta for tha advice,

 

Ian A.

ANY LUCK IAN??

I gave it to the local auto electricians (Hill and Bellinger) with a very proud smile on my face. The mechanic must have thought I was a bit loopy.

 

Anyway, he bench tested it and confirmed it was giving out a low voltage and yet the warning light (controlled by the electrical connector?) was not switched on. Apparently, the diode pack had gone, the bearings were worn and something else was kaput.

 

£100 and 24 hours later, it's back, completely cleaned, painted matt black, refurbished, tested and generally as good as new. The bloke even pushed out the sliding bush to make it easier to get back on (handy as I don't have a vice).

 

They refurbished the one on my car and it's still going strong 3 years later.

 

My neck and back have almost recovered so the refit will commence at 0900 hours tomorrow.

 

Ian A.