Anybody had a go at spraying scratches/scuffs on their bodywork themselves with a sray can, how easy is it ? where did you get the spray paint (nissan/halfrauds) and what is the match like for stock colours ?

 

pointers on how to go about it would be good too

 

cheers peeps

Paul

Easy if you take your time.

 

I got these ropey looking mirrors housings on my old runabout Cavalier back to looking new again. :)

 

 

Don't bother with Halfords, their paint matching ability is sh*te (as I found out). Go to a proper motor factors or spray paint specialists.

 

Gareth

Totally agree with Gareth on that one. I've bought Halfrauds spray ages ago for something else and found the paint to be of poor quality and the match....well, there isn't one really.

Awesome looking, i got scuffs and scrapes on me rear bumper near the reflectors on the side so I will be doing a 'patch' or 2. Do you reckon that will be 'easy' ?

how do I get the paint 'level' the same and how do I 'blend' it ?

Silver's difficult to blend it. Solid colours aren't too bad. Baring in mind you'll be using cellulose paint and not 2k.

 

It won't be easy for a first timer.

 

Basically, you'll need to flat the area back around the scrapes, you'll need to remove any low spots in the paint and feather it back really.

 

Any bare plastic will need to be primed and then that feathered back.

 

If you've been waxing your car (and it's a good idea to do this anyway) then get some degreaser wipes after flatting back. This will get rid of any silicone deposits which are contained in most waxes/polishes. Nasty stuff and will cause the paint to bubble and blister.

 

You'll need a combination of papers, I'd say 400, 800, 1000 and 1200 grit really if you want to spend your time making it look nice.

 

So really you want to do it something like this (don't take it as gospel as I am not a car body repairer), remove any digs in the bumper, if you can feather it out first using a 400 grit, then 800 and to smooth off use a 1000. Fill any bad digs and repeat the process. Then lightly prime the bare areas, before flatting back. You can use this as a mild filler if you build up layers and continue to flat back . You can then see how the base surface is.

 

Once area is super smooth, you can apply base coat silver. very very lightly dust it on, making sure you use even sweeps in ALL directions. Metallic particles fall at very different angles, so it's good to get these catered for. You don't want any dark spots/light spots.

 

No need to rub this back, once you've left it to dry for an hour, you can apply some lacquer. Again light dustings, but build up a very good thickness of it. Do not worry about finish. It's better for it to look mat, than it is to have runs. You get shine when you finish off and I'll explain that in a minute.

 

Anyway, leave the area to dry for a day, you are then ready to finish off. To finish off, use 1000 grit (wet) and lightly rub down the new paint work and the old paintwork around the surrounding fresh lacquer. You do this to get rid of the glaze and any orange peel effect you have on the lacquer. It also blends it into the old paint. Once you've done this, do the same with the 1200 grit to get it super smooth. If you look at the area, it should be an equal dullness all over, indicating removal of low lying paint areas and haze.

 

Now the area will be matt in appearance, you then need to cut it back using a cutting compound such as G3. It's mildly abrasive and will remove any fine scratches that the paper has given it. You need to be fairly abrasive in your usage of this. Give it a few goes over and wipe off. Now you've still not achieved shine, but don't worry, it's time to polish. You can use any 'good' polish really. I used Autoglym, again you need to be quite abrasive in your actions when using this. You may need to go over the area several times before you achieve a glassy finish.

 

That's about it really. That was quite a basic run through. But I'd be wary about doing silver. Unless you get a spot on colour match, it will look patchy. The paint on your car will be quite old and both finish and colour will be difficult to blend. Experienced bodyshops with good equipment can get a good colour match and use a much better quality of paint. Might be worth while just seeing how much a semi decent blow over will cost.

 

Also, bending in of paintwork can be tricky. It's relatively easy to do small complete items, such as wheels, mirror housings and what-not. Because if you cock those up, you can just do them again.

Paul, just a quick one and off topic - are you going to JAE? STILL haven't sent you that roll of light sealant!!! Sorry bud :slap:

No mate I'm not going, can't make it, been real busy recently

Silver's difficult to blend it. Solid colours aren't too bad. Baring in mind you'll be using cellulose paint and not 2k.

 

It won't be easy for a first timer.

 

Basically, you'll need to flat the area back around the scrapes, you'll need to remove any low spots in the paint and feather it back really.

 

Any bare plastic will need to be primed and then that feathered back.

 

If you've been waxing your car (and it's a good idea to do this anyway) then get some degreaser wipes after flatting back. This will get rid of any silicone deposits which are contained in most waxes/polishes. Nasty stuff and will cause the paint to bubble and blister.

 

You'll need a combination of papers, I'd say 400, 800, 1000 and 1200 grit really if you want to spend your time making it look nice.

 

So really you want to do it something like this (don't take it as gospel as I am not a car body repairer), remove any digs in the bumper, if you can feather it out first using a 400 grit, then 800 and to smooth off use a 1000. Fill any bad digs and repeat the process. Then lightly prime the bare areas, before flatting back. You can use this as a mild filler if you build up layers and continue to flat back . You can then see how the base surface is.

 

Once area is super smooth, you can apply base coat silver. very very lightly dust it on, making sure you use even sweeps in ALL directions. Metallic particles fall at very different angles, so it's good to get these catered for. You don't want any dark spots/light spots.

 

No need to rub this back, once you've left it to dry for an hour, you can apply some lacquer. Again light dustings, but build up a very good thickness of it. Do not worry about finish. It's better for it to look mat, than it is to have runs. You get shine when you finish off and I'll explain that in a minute.

 

Anyway, leave the area to dry for a day, you are then ready to finish off. To finish off, use 1000 grit (wet) and lightly rub down the new paint work and the old paintwork around the surrounding fresh lacquer. You do this to get rid of the glaze and any orange peel effect you have on the lacquer. It also blends it into the old paint. Once you've done this, do the same with the 1200 grit to get it super smooth. If you look at the area, it should be an equal dullness all over, indicating removal of low lying paint areas and haze.

 

Now the area will be matt in appearance, you then need to cut it back using a cutting compound such as G3. It's mildly abrasive and will remove any fine scratches that the paper has given it. You need to be fairly abrasive in your usage of this. Give it a few goes over and wipe off. Now you've still not achieved shine, but don't worry, it's time to polish. You can use any 'good' polish really. I used Autoglym, again you need to be quite abrasive in your actions when using this. You may need to go over the area several times before you achieve a glassy finish.

 

That's about it really. That was quite a basic run through. But I'd be wary about doing silver. Unless you get a spot on colour match, it will look patchy. The paint on your car will be quite old and both finish and colour will be difficult to blend. Experienced bodyshops with good equipment can get a good colour match and use a much better quality of paint. Might be worth while just seeing how much a semi decent blow over will cost.

 

Also, bending in of paintwork can be tricky. It's relatively easy to do small complete items, such as wheels, mirror housings and what-not. Because if you cock those up, you can just do them again.

 

CheerZ mate, will give it a go

Ok, will chuck in post !!!

Ok, will chuck in post !!!

 

CheerZ bud, you still got me address ?