Well....

 

My problem is this...

 

The last couple of months ive noticed that when the car got stuck in traffic or it got rather hot then I was unable to engage first gear or reverse...all the others worked fine.

I can dis-engage without a problem and once out of first gear its fine goin into and out of the others...no nasty noises or anything.

Well today it got worse to the point where my Zed is now stuck on the drive :headvswal

cant select 1st or Reverse...and secound is now becoming tricky.

I can change gears easily if engine is not running.

The clutch is NOT slipping..I have tried beleive me :hyper:

When or if i eventually am able to select a gear I have found the biting point to be about 10mm off of full compression(foot to floor)

And have about 2-3" of fairly soft compression at the top.

I have bled the system at the two points so I have brand new Dot4 in there and its made no difference.

I am NOT loosing fluid.

I have tried depressing the pedal slowly and its no better.

I have tried pumping it first and its no better.

 

Most likely first :-

 

1)Its been suggested that it could be the master cylinder just leaking within itself thus explaing the loss in pedal pressure and no leaks....Could this be it?

2)There was talk about a lever point bending in the gbox/mcylinder...Could this be it?

3)Pedal adjustment nut...Could it be this?...(how does it work?)

4)Gearbox oil...It does need a change...Surely oil would NOTaffect it this much?

5)The clutch is fooked...Surely NOT the clutch,It doesnt slip :nono:

6)Syncro mesh....Surely NOT as i can select other gears and have never crunched 1st or reverse

 

As many ideas as possible please as my next step would be to get a master cylinder~(the one on the g/box)

 

Thanks

Well....

 

My problem is this...

 

The last couple of months ive noticed that when the car got stuck in traffic or it got rather hot then I was unable to engage first gear or reverse...all the others worked fine.

I can dis-engage without a problem and once out of first gear its fine goin into and out of the others...no nasty noises or anything.

Well today it got worse to the point where my Zed is now stuck on the drive :headvswal

cant select 1st or Reverse...and secound is now becoming tricky.

I can change gears easily if engine is not running.

The clutch is NOT slipping..I have tried beleive me :hyper:

When or if i eventually am able to select a gear I have found the biting point to be about 10mm off of full compression(foot to floor)

And have about 2-3" of fairly soft compression at the top.

I have bled the system at the two points so I have brand new Dot4 in there and its made no difference.

I am NOT loosing fluid.

I have tried depressing the pedal slowly and its no better.

I have tried pumping it first and its no better.

 

Most likely first :-

 

1)Its been suggested that it could be the master cylinder just leaking within itself thus explaing the loss in pedal pressure and no leaks....Could this be it?

2)There was talk about a lever point bending in the gbox/mcylinder...Could this be it?

3)Pedal adjustment nut...Could it be this?...(how does it work?)

4)Gearbox oil...It does need a change...Surely oil would NOTaffect it this much?

5)The clutch is fooked...Surely NOT the clutch,It doesnt slip :nono:

6)Syncro mesh....Surely NOT as i can select other gears and have never crunched 1st or reverse

 

As many ideas as possible please as my next step would be to get a master cylinder~(the one on the g/box)

 

Thanks

 

Its ye tracking matey....

 

 

 

Dont adjust the pedal as this only hides the problem, dig deep and purchase a new slave cylinder from MJP"Mike Freeny" Whilst your at it, you may as well order new rubbers for the master cylinder. A faulty master cylinder will show the same results as a faulty slave cylinder. One other thing check for vacume leaks around the clutch servo tanks.

CHEERZ Dave....

Youve been great help on the phone tonight.... :bow:

Is the Slave cylinder the one on the G/box or on the bulk head?...The metal one?....or the big black round thingy...lol...Air servo i think?

 

I am FIck

slave is on the gbox

lol....Thanks pat...errmmm...splatt :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

I just need a bit of educating :D

reckon you should bleed the system....usually the culprit....

has it been a gradual decline?...

yer...Have done that mate.....

Brand new fluid....used both the nipples :eek:

Has been a slow/graduall process of degradation....

only used to happen when it was really hot...now it does it even when cold

when u bleed it does it work ok 4 a while or is it sh1t?

if it is sh1t on bleeding jack the front up b4 bleeding (you may laugh) but .....

when u bleed it does it work ok 4 a while or is it sh1t?

if it is sh1t on bleeding jack the front up b4 bleeding (you may laugh) but .....

Nope...no difference what so ever mate..its SH1T

 

I had jacked up the front first....

Bled the nipple by the HICAS....

then bled the nipple on the slave cylinder

 

O Poo :mad:

Not sure if this will help but I had a similar problem. When in hot weather or idleing in traffic jams my clutch peddle got lower and lower so that it was very difficult to get into gear. Turned out to be the clutch line, it had very fine cracks in it which let air into the system, I replaced it with a braded clutch line and it solved the problem.

Where did u get that from please?

Ygpm

Ygpm

:hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper: :hyper:

 

lol...sorry...i got over excited then... :rofl:

 

cheerZ for that bud ;)

##UPDATE##

 

It works fine if it is cold...a perfect gbox...

As soon as its warm/hot it is feckin shat again

 

So Why does the heat affect it???

 

I have re-bled the system and its still poop.

I am unable to adjust the pedal adjustment as:-

 

A)I cant get my head under to see the fookin thing as the pedals are in the way(and yes i was upside down on my back head first into footwell)

B)I have no knurled bit to grip...only thread...The knurled bit is just within the recess of the rubber/plastic boot....no way of moving the boot.

 

I have ordered a slave cylinder...Master cylinder kit and a braided hose

(BIG thanks to MJP and TOPLESS for sortin stuff in the early hours of the morning) :bow:

 

So why is it only affected when its hot peeps?????

I reckon your clutch is near the end of it's life. How many miles has it done ?

Apparently it had a new uprated Helix clutch fitted 6months b4 i bought it.

I have done 11,000 miles in 6 months since....

It was only runnin 10psi before with no filter or chip so it wasnt being hammered as much as it is now...

It never slips....i mean never...

I can do superb launches and it bites very nicely...not even a hint of a slip...

so how could it be the clutch andy???...

Im completely baffled

How would the heat effect it technically...please explain mate :confused:

This thread supplied to me by HomeBrew shows the knurled section for turning the threaded rod....There is a rubber plastic boot in the way...how do i access this knurled section?

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/clutchadjustment.html

 

It also says this....sounds like mine :-

BEHAVIOR: Engages too close to floor, may grind when putting into 1st or reverse.

REMEDY: rotate rod clockwise (rod is unscrewed from clevis making it longer).

This shows u what i mean:-

Bumpty Bump

Anyone please?

You have to slide the rubber boot towards the nut (slide left in the picture) I did this no probs, just difficult to get your head, hands and tools in there

Thanks Paul :)

I didnt think it moved but will give it a go.

I think i must have a big head as i cant fit it under their :cry:

I'll have to try the mirror technique me thinks :p

 

CheerZ

How would the heat effect it technically...please explain mate :confused:

 

When it's hot everything expands a bit, leading to a bit of clutch drag when supposedly disengaged, which makes it hotter and worse etc etc

 

Going on what you said about the clutch it's probably OK, and just needs a little adjustment for more clearance. Good luck, you need to be a double-jointed, stunted worm to get under there - best get Berks to do it ! :D LOL

you need to be a double-jointed, stunted worm to get under there - best get Berks to do it ! :D LOL

ROFPMSL :rofl:

Thanks for the info Andy :smw:

Bumpty Bump

Anyone please?

 

 

1. Change the master cylinder - that will rule that out , czp.us or courtesyparts.com

2. Clutch operating lever - you need to get it on a ramp or jack it up(ALWAYS USE AXLE STANDS) to see - if unsure space it out with something like a pound coin and see if you get any more movement.

3. Check the adjustment - its in the online manual - about CL 7 I think.

4. Gearbox oil - check it or get it checked.

5. The clutch - thats my guess.Takes a good mechanic about 2 to 2.5 hours to get it out.And it does`nt have to slip to be ****ed - there was hardly any wear on mine.

6. Gearbox - well if all the above are ok then this is the problem.

 

Also - if you are changing the master cylinder you might as wel change the slave cylinder(the one on the gearbox) they are quite cheap.

And always make sure its bled from both bleed nipples , several times as per the manual.Good luck.

 

Mark

sounds like the clutch cover has gone weak to me (small fingers that the release bearing pushes on weaken, this is exaggerated when hot, as they get even weaker), if it was in the box, it would be worse when cold IMO, oil levels & any other cheap fixes are the routes to take first though obviously.

Hi mate,

I had this problem on my Z.

Bled the system a dozen times and even replaced a new clutch that had only done 2000 miles.

In the end the problem was the clutch fork/lever that had bent.

It just wasn't able to move the clutch far enough.

Even with a new clutch it got worse when warm and eventually i got stranded when the fork snapped one day.

 

If you're fitting an uprated clutch I'd recommend replacing the fork (£34 from Nissan) and and uprated pivot ball (£25 ish from Smithy).

These bits have been in there up to 15 years taking the strain and uprated clutches seem to kill them.

Well worth a bit extra to avoid having to take the box out again and worry about what might be causing your problems.

Cost me £700 for a new clutch and labour to find out!