i start the car every day no problems,

i go maybe a mile or two and it will splutter and lose power,

i pull over and start it a couple times and its still the same, then suddenly

it will fire up and off it will go no problems and run all day, ive changed the ptu, and still the same, so would be great if anyone could point me where to look?? thanks

i start the car every day no problems,

i go maybe a mile or two and it will splutter and lose power,

i pull over and start it a couple times and its still the same, then suddenly

it will fire up and off it will go no problems and run all day, ive changed the ptu, and still the same, so would be great if anyone could point me where to look?? thanks

 

Could be a poor connection on the Air Flow Meter - when ECU detects a fault it goes into 'get you home mode' - restricts revs to 2500 and doesn't run 'right'... worth a check for a simple fix, and it wouldn;t be a bad thing to give the connectors a clean even if it isn;t that!

 

Rich

check the CAS or the connector on the CAS

 

it can cause very similar problems as a dodgy PTU

could be the automatic choke sticking on...

cheers all, been out since posting

and will need to check all the above, as my comment about being ok after stuttering has gone awol lol, as it did it a lot more, had to keep pulling in, leaving it go a bit further and repeat, so thanks will need to check all the above urgently now

could be the automatic choke sticking on...

LOL (!?!)

 

have you done an ECU check to see if theres any diagnostic codes coming up?

i had similar prob, it was connector to the temp sensor for ecu located front of engine with 2 pin yellow conector, it gets corroded hives wrong temp signal to ecu, when car warms up the ecu still thinks car is cold and runs on choke ie rich, then the plugs get coked up and it missfires and detonates. the knock sensor will prob detect this and limit the power to safety mode and also if the temp sensor fault is detected it will run limp home mode ie limit to 2500 revs. code 13 is temp sensor fault, check all connectors, you can buy connectors from durite (01255555200) or cragmay durite dealer (01775711141) you will need to get a catalogue though cause they wont understand 300zx connector!! theye are bout £2 plus vat. the sensor worth replacing also is £25 from nissan

also run only high octane fuel if its import ie not 95ron, use 97+ (superunleaded preferable shell optimax at 98ron)

LOL (!?!)

 

have you done an ECU check to see if theres any diagnostic codes coming up?

 

lol just realised the auto choke, its pissing down here at the mo' so no chance im doing it tonight, the fuel is temp controlled isnt it??

as i wondered if it was over fuelling at first, hence the starting ok THEN problem comes in, so will check sensors etc

g113emo, only ever use optimax m8, but will check others,;) im wondering since i had my wings done if they've dislodged something as i THINK its only since this?

 

not had chance to do an ecu test yet, but a mate is a mobile tuner etc, and reckons he has all the software for his laptop for the zx, so will ask him:)

off out again, so will leave mine at home and go play in her soarer

cheers

not had chance to do an ecu test yet, but a mate is a mobile tuner etc, and reckons he has all the software for his laptop for the zx, so will ask him:)

All you need is a bit of wire and you can do it in about 30 seconds and be back in the house and out of the rain. :)

 

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/ECUdiagnostics.html

This is a common problem that I have seen more and more and in my experience is on the increase!

From your description I would say the problem to be with your fuel punp ecu.

 

I Have solved the very same problem on probably five or six different zeds this year, each time the same perfect cold start that soon develops to power loss and then an unlmost undrivable car, switching off or leaving to idle for a few minutes ( if it will ) will give either same routine or oddly a completely fault free drive the rest of the day.

 

Each and every time on removing the pump ecu and dissassembling you will find the output side of the pcb will have overheat marks and a dry joint on an associated component, by the nature of dry joints they will work when cold but then when heated up some times fail again, but also sometimes will not, that is the trouble with intermittent electrical faults, this is what makes them so hard to trace.

 

The unit itself has heat sinks on it to aid colling and in general they run just slightly warm, in general a good indication of a problem is that they run very hot when there is a fault present on the board, this of course makes the problem worse.

 

The unit is located in the rear side panel on the passenger side next to the rear seat.

 

A voltage check at the fuel pump connector will show if there is a problem, this does need to be done when the fault is eveident though.

 

The white cable at the pump end can be grounded to run the pump continuously as a test to confirm the problem.

 

I firmly believe the failure of these units and others will increase as the cars get older, its just a time thing, we can not do anything about it just replace as required.

 

 

Hope that helps and saves you some time.

 

Jeff TT

Nice pick up Jeff.

You can just bypass it and run the pump off the relay at 12v all the time. It's a bit more noisy, but that's all.

again thanks to all

btw is the fuel pump ecu the same on a n/a??

if so i can pinch it from hers lol

billy, honestly do not know if fuel pump ecu is the same between n/a and TT, if you can wait till tomorrow will check it out one of the n/a breakers and post back here, unless someone else here knows for sure.

 

Jeff TT

Could be wrong, but I don't think the NA has one? The control circuitry in the ECU's different.

ok Jeff and John thanks, will wait to see

certainly plenty for me to go at:)

na and tt are different

Could be a poor connection on the Air Flow Meter - when ECU detects a fault it goes into 'get you home mode' - restricts revs to 2500 and doesn't run 'right'... worth a check for a simple fix, and it wouldn;t be a bad thing to give the connectors a clean even if it isn;t that!

 

Rich

 

quick update, looks like it WAS the problem m8

took the afm of her n/a, and when i came to swop it to mine

i noticed the little metal clip wasnt there, BUT it was taped

now i deffo didnt do that, so i reckon when i had my viper wings done the bodyshop lost it and taped it instead, been driving round for 2-3 days now and car hasnt skipped a beat:)

she hasnt used hers since i swopped, so it could still be the afm, but i hope it was the silly clip :headvswal

quick update, looks like it WAS the problem m8

took the afm of her n/a, and when i came to swop it to mine

i noticed the little metal clip wasnt there, BUT it was taped

now i deffo didnt do that, so i reckon when i had my viper wings done the bodyshop lost it and taped it instead, been driving round for 2-3 days now and car hasnt skipped a beat:)

she hasnt used hers since i swopped, so it could still be the afm, but i hope it was the silly clip :headvswal

 

Glad to get something right for once!! :hyper: And good luck with 'her' not finding out!!

 

Rich

back to plan B m8:(

done it again tonight, so her car is losing the temp sensor next:(

though i had it solved as its been right for 3 days :headvswal

quick update, just for anyone with similar problem/s

and keeping an eye on this, just wipped the temp sensor for ecu from hers

drove about 30-40 miles so far, and SEEMS ok, but after changing the afm

the other day it was ok for 3 days, so nothing proved YET

 

(anyone know if the tt and n/a ptu's are the same??, forgot to look before, and hers is in the garage now, i have changed my ptu, but it was a 2nd hand one, so a small chance it could be suss)

 

also is the tps the same??