All,

 

I saw on the net that stock is 15°

We can increase horse power by increasing it up to 19° max. That what I've read on the How to section!!!

 

My problem is that my car is running 25°.

I have an ECU upgrade (coming from ebay TechXL is you know him) and I have boost jet.

I should run 0.9 bar (13.5 psi) pressure but I've install a quick pressure gauge this afternoon and I have only 0.7 bar (10.5 psi).

 

Is there a relation between this two things?

Can it come from the ECU?

 

Thank for you help

Bubuche

To be honest 19 degrees is pushing it. Especially with increased boost, and you run much higher risks of detonation. an extra 2-3 degrees, with the correct maps will see a healthy and reasonably safe power increase both off and on boost.

 

If your running 25 degrees base timing, then you need to get it adjusted asap...very dangerious.

 

Get yourself a permanant Boost guage installed, as there is always a risk of spiking when running boost jets. Reduced boost when you tested could of been simply down to ambient temperatures, or it may be that the jets you have installed are too big. Every car reacts differently to different size jets.

Stay with 15º. It is that for a reason. Putting it to 25º should make it more powerful but you are a lot higher risk of causing engine damage.

Personally I think changing the timing should only be done if you really know what you are doing and if your car is modified more that what yours is.

 

Even so, I would only expect changes of 3-4º not 10º

>> We can increase horse power by increasing it up to 19° max. That what I've read on the How to section!!!

 

Bad idea !

might work on a stock car running stock boost, but NEVER do this on a car that has increased boost

 

> My problem is that my car is running 25°.

 

Check you P/N (neutral gear) sensor/wiring.

This is also a problem that can occur when the car has been modified from auto to manual and they "forgot" to wire the neutral switch sensor from the gearbox to the ECU.

But is there any relation between my new chips and the timing tweak?

 

When I did the check, It was with a friend who was having a Blitz controler. The Blitz also find an error : A/T .....

Maybe that the pb.

>> But is there any relation between my new chips and the timing tweak?

 

no, I've yet to see a chip that alters the timing at idle and doesn't have the timing at 15 BTDC at idle with fully warmed up engine

 

do you have a manual or automatic ?

 

the AT error means the communication between the engine ECU and transmission ECU has been lost.

Or...you are running a chip that was programmed for an automatic in a manual ECU (in this case you can ignore the error)

that the case, I have a manual car and I think the ECU was made for an automatic one ^^

that the case, I have a manual car and I think the ECU was made for an automatic one ^^

 

i dont think that makes any difference, at least certainly not with aftermarket ECUs like the JWT. auto ecu can be used with a manual, but not vice versa

25degrees PMSL shit dude :smash: in the heat especially your engine will go bang for sure

 

Check you P/N (neutral gear) sensor/wiring.

This is also a problem that can occur when the car has been modified from auto to manual and they "forgot" to wire the neutral switch sensor from the gearbox to the ECU.

 

Lymon

 

I have carried out this conversion and you've got me wondering whether I did this?

 

I made a custom loom from the gearbox to the connector next to the power steering pot. 2 wires were needed AFAIK, one for the reversing lights and the other for the speed sensor....

 

Are you saying I've missed something? :confused:

>> Are you saying I've missed something?

 

yes, a (common) issue on AT > MT converted cars is that the P/N switch has not been connected to the ECU (pin 44)

This can cause the timing at idle to go to 25 BTDC at idle, because the ECU "thinks" the car is in gear when it's not.

 

A quick fix is just to earth pin 44.

>> Are you saying I've missed something?

 

yes, a (common) issue on AT > MT converted cars is that the P/N switch has not been connected to the ECU (pin 44)

This can cause the timing at idle to go to 25 BTDC at idle, because the ECU "thinks" the car is in gear when it's not.

 

A quick fix is just to earth pin 44.

 

I see, thanks for that.... ;)

 

Where can I locate PIN44? Are you referring to PIN44 on the ECU?

>> Are you referring to PIN44 on the ECU?

 

yes on the ECU... for location see : http://300zx-twinturbo.com/manual/eccsdiag/001.gif

So if I understand well English, I just have to connect the pin 44 to the earth and that will change my 25°...

Do I need to disconnect the pin 44 and then to connect it to earth or do I let it cnnect and also I connect it to earth?

 

Thanks a lot

Bubuche

 

Thats a good question and also in the diagram it colour coldes the wire as Y/L.

 

Whats the 'L' stand for? Lilac? :)

 

Any ideas Lymon? Thanks in advance...

Yellow/Blue, I thought (B being Black).. but I could be wrong.

can i jump in here aswell, i swapped auto to manual and i think i have the same problem.

I noticed on page 'EF & EC-175' (pin)44 neutral switch if in neutral 0v but when in gear 8.0 - 9.0v.

I may be being thick but if its eathed will there be any problem when in gear?

>> I may be being thick but if its eathed will there be any problem when in gear?

 

No, it won't cause any problems, but like I said earlier this is a quick fix.

To do it properly just connect the switch in the gearbox to the ECU.

cheers for all your help lymon, i'll get to work on this, chris.