Pulled away from a junction this afternoon, and suddenly had no power in the autobox! Plenty of revs, but nothing at all in any position in the box!

 

Engine was warm (up to temp), as I'd used it not all that long before this journey, there is plenty of oil in the box, and everything else works normally. It has the Jap oil cooler still fitted.

 

Now for the strange bit, after the two or so hours to get home (on the back of a truck) I struck her up and I was able to move her!!!!

 

Any help greatfully appreciated.

 

Thanks very much.

drop the gearbox oil, clean the filter and top her up. see if the oil is burnt. Hope its ok mate but i dont like your chances.

Not knowing too much about the internals of the box, may I suggest that possibly theres a valve jamming in the valve block? Possibly run a flush through for auto boxes through it, though Im not sure about these as the torque converter hols alot of fluid, which you cant drain.

Check oil levels and oil cond

 

hope nowt to serious matey

Dave,

 

I have excactly the same problem!

 

Have you tried an autobox diag?? Try..... http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/autodiag/autodiag.html

 

I'm nearly 100% sure its the line pressure solenoid thats gone/going on mine.

 

Let me know how you get on Dave!

 

Rich

Thanks guys.

 

 

 

Dave,

 

I have excactly the same problem!

 

Have you tried an autobox diag?? Try..... http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/autodiag/autodiag.html

 

I'm nearly 100% sure its the line pressure solenoid thats gone/going on mine.

 

Let me know how you get on Dave!

 

Rich

Thanks Rich, I'll give it a looking at tomorrow, see how I get on.

I'll report back.

it will be the line pressure solenoid mine was the same when the box cooled down the gears came back this happened twice but one day the same will happen and you will not get the gears back again

Right I've just performed the Auto Transmission Diagnostic, and all ten flashes were the same = No error codes detected :confused:

 

Right, I started the engine to get it up to temp, there was a loud(ish) noise that sounded like a pump grinding (bit difficult to describe). At this point the car would go into gear as normal (foot on brake, very slight movement with brake on = normal, all gears) but still noisey. Then as the car warmed up the noise went away, also once the temp guage was just starting to move I checked the gears again, and nothing! Anyway let the car warm up properly and did the test, but, as above, all ten flases were the same (yes I did check it twice)

 

As I've said before I've still got the Jap spec oil cooler on the car (if that makes any difference)

 

So would this Line Pressure Solinoid caurse this fault?

All what youve described is excactly the same thats wrong with mine!

 

Can you get drive for about 30 seconds then nothing???

 

I think its gotta be connected to line pressure.

 

Rich

All what youve described is excactly the same thats wrong with mine!

 

Can you get drive for about 30 seconds then nothing???

 

I think its gotta be connected to line pressure.

 

Rich

Yes Rich, thats about it 30 seconds to a minute. I think I was lucky getting it back on the drive last nite after the recovery truck could only drop it on the road.

 

If it is this Line Pressure Solinoid, is it available separatley?

Cheers bud

Yes Rich, thats about it 30 seconds to a minute. I think I was lucky getting it back on the drive last nite after the recovery truck could only drop it on the road.

 

If it is this Line Pressure Solinoid, is it available separatley?

Cheers bud

I have 2 old boxs here Dave, so id say i can pop em off and we can give them a go!

 

Rich

I have 2 old boxs here Dave, so id say i can pop em off and we can give them a go!

 

Rich

Sounds like a damn good idea to me mate :D

LOL make sure you let me know when, this I have to watch

If that line pressure solinoid is internal, i've got an old box here I can take one out of if required.

Not knowing too much about the internals of the box, may I suggest that possibly theres a valve jamming in the valve block? Possibly run a flush through for auto boxes through it, though Im not sure about these as the torque converter hols alot of fluid, which you cant drain.

 

good point this,whenever your box goes tits up you should never use your existing torque converter because the burnt up crap in your box has passed through the converter first and as shunter said you will never drain the crap out,cut open a old one and see how complex the vanes are and you,ll see why :nono:

good point this,whenever your box goes tits up you should never use your existing torque converter because the burnt up crap in your box has passed through the converter first and as shunter said you will never drain the crap out,cut open a old one and see how complex the vanes are and you,ll see why :nono:

 

I remember being told the basic principals of how a torque converter works when I was at college, because I couldnt understand it.

 

Think of 2 fans, facing each other, turn one fan on, what happens to the other?

It will turn, because of the air being forced through it, but in a torque converter, its fluid. But it happens in such a small unit, fantastic idea!!

What I wana know is why the builders of such fine machines have never managed to build a dam good auto box .. My Supra turbo's on it's third and it won't revearse when cold. Mates Lexus is the same. Recon it's got the same type a box.

I remember being told the basic principals of how a torque converter works when I was at college, because I couldnt understand it.

 

Think of 2 fans, facing each other, turn one fan on, what happens to the other?

It will turn, because of the air being forced through it, but in a torque converter, its fluid. But it happens in such a small unit, fantastic idea!!

 

yep,its the converter that does the donkey work and allso thats where the heat in the fluid is generated from,usda run 7" wide converters in my drag racing days campaining a 77 trans-am,hit the gas and nothing till 4000 rpm then BANG, it all came at once,ahh the old th350 3 speeder,blow it in the mornin and rebiuld it by the afternoon not like these z boxes iff you sneeze on the internals there contaminated :rofl:

What I wana know is why the builders of such fine machines have never managed to build a dam good auto box

 

The auto box on my Scorpio has done 136,000 :) Ford eventualy got it right with the A4LD,same box as in the Explorer :cool:,but back to the problem with Daves,as some may know had problems with a Z of mine,box finaly went,but prior to total failure it performed like Daves,thing is there are i think a total of 8 Solenoids,3 are accesable from out side the box casing,but its best to drop the box and have them all checked out,mine was found to have 2 sloenoids knackerd,due to crap in oil,bands burnt out,resulting in no drive above second gear.

 

Tony

Had this happen to me a few years back. One minute it would work then nothing. Smelt the oil to find it was burnt. Was the clutch pack gone. Put an oil cooler on if you have to change the box cus the same thing will happen over again(overheat, and burn out). The origonal way for cooling the oil is shat cus it does it via a heat exchanger method in the radiator.Bloody silly if you ask me when the car is such a hot running beast.Good luck. Ive changed a box on my driveway and its fun.....................................not!!

so if the oil smells burnt does the oil have to come out and what causes it to smell. is it possible to get all the old oil out because just draining it normally dosen't

Buddy, if the oil smell burnt it usually means a rebuild. What happens is that the clutch plates burn out and the debris get into the main filter etc and reduces the oil flow. The best bet if you are changing the oil is to take the bottom pan off and take the main filter off to see if there is any residue there. Bits in the bottom of the pan is also likely clutch. Somtimes you have a drain plug and somtomes not so you have to extract the oil via the dip stick tube. Hope this helps bud. Good luck!!

Like i said, I have the same prob as Dave,

 

My oil smells nice and new, but it is only 2000 miles old??????

 

Ive done the gearbox diag a few times now at various engine temps, and its still reads all clear!!

 

I'm getting baffled now!

 

Rich

Like i said, I have the same prob as Dave,

 

My oil smells nice and new, but it is only 2000 miles old??????

 

Ive done the gearbox diag a few times now at various engine temps, and its still reads all clear!!

 

I'm getting baffled now!

 

Rich

Yep, same here, done the Diag at various temps, and all is OK. I've also checked out the resistance (of the Line Pressure Soliniod) at both cold and hot, and it comes out at 3.8, which is within limits. I'm still concerned with the, what could be described as a, screach sound on start up, which goes away as you loose the drive in the box, about 30 secs to a min!! :confused:

mine gave the clear code untill the day the box failed

Any news Dave?