Change clutch - easy or impossible?

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January 24, 200521 yr

I´m a total newbie thinking of buying my first 300zx. Its a 1991 US model. (with the turbo charged engine ofcourse)

The car is nice BUT has a moulding sound when clutch is in upper position.

I assume the clutch needs to be replaced?

BUT Does anyone have an idea of how much work it is to do that? The Nissan dealer where I live have never seen a 300zx so I better ask the experts here....

Is it more complex than changing clutch to a "normal car" ? Do You need special tools etc....

What clutch (brand/model) do You recommend that I buy?

Thankful for all input in this matter :nana2:

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January 25, 200521 yr

not sure what you mean by a "moulding sound"?? but the clutch is quite an easy job on a zed. theres no special toos needed.

RPS is a good brand of clutch, speak to Smithy in the traders section :)

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January 25, 200521 yr

Perhaps "grinding" sound is a better explanation. I´m not so familiar with english technical words....

Sounds good that the clutch is farely easy to change.

Thanks

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FOR SALE: Twinz 300ZX - Hood Type 1 style Ventilated Bonnet & Matching Nose Panel

Twinz 300ZX - Hood Type 1 style Ventilated Bonnet & Matching Nose Panel

I am very, very reluctantly selling my Twinz 300ZX - Hood Type 1 style Ventilated Bonnet & Matching Nose Panel.
This hood has been made to improve the cooling and looks of the 300ZX (Z32) with vents over the radiator and turbo areas. These vents help to move the hot air out of the engine compartment and keep the temps low, while improving the longevity on the different components. If you use this link, you can see the bonnet fitted on some stunning 300Zx’s- 300ZX - Hood Type 1 | Twinz Design

The additional Hood Vents Type 1 (louvered) featured in some of the car photos are not fitted to the bonnet and are optional – they can be purchased from Twinz Design using this link.
This hood is made of high-quality FRP just like all other TwinZ Products. Complete with an integrated hood latch, it can be installed with no other modifications, although hood pins are suggested.
The Nose Panel is styled to continue the lines of the bonnet forward, but the bonnet can be used with a variety of Nose Panels as you can see from the photos.
Both are finished in blue, but easily refinished to the colour of your choice.

I optimistically bought this from a member a few years ago to fit on my 300ZX, but the pandemic and a change in plans have meant I will sadly be moving quite a few things on.
Can be finished in any colour and looks fantastic when fitted while helping to cool the engine compartment- any owner knows that is an Achilles heel for the 300ZX. Take a look at the web photos – while I include the matching front cover, it can also be matched with a vented front cover if you prefer.

Great opportunity for someone as these never come up- around £1600 PLUS SHIPPING new as you will see on the website. Just looking for £850.00 collected for the package (Bonnet + matching Front Cover).

By Dave · 20 hours ago20 hr
JaiKai - MK2 - Ziggy Build

So as i wait for the turbos to arrive i need to order up a new condenser and dryer.
In regards to the engine; its just sitting waiting to be put back in but we are held back because of the turbos.
I have 3 engines sitting, 2 forged and 1 stock.

I'm also considering replacing the stock cams for a set of JWT's as i have a set in the other engine i own.

For the moment it will just have to sit an wait.

By JaiKai · 21 hours ago21 hr
JaiKai - MK2 - Ziggy Build

Working on the AC again today as my turbos still haven't arrived from Z1.
Looks like i need a new AC evaporator and dryer as the donor is bent out of shape too.

Pipe work isn't in the best of shape either, shame everything is end of life and no longer available.

By JaiKai · 21 hours ago21 hr
ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

PARTS ACQUIRED DURING THE MONTH OF APRIL
This month I took delivery of two new brake-related parts from Japan. The first was a set of later-model iron Twin Turbo front brake calipers, which I’ve already covered in detail above.
The second item, however, is the one I’m most excited about. It has the potential to significantly reduce future servicing time—particularly when bleeding the braking system—provided I can successfully retrofit it to my car. Based on the research I’ve pieced together so far, it should be possible in theory.

(Above) The package from Japan containing both brake components. As always, Jesse Streeter and his team did an excellent job ensuring everything arrived safely and undamaged.
https://i.postimg.cc/fbNJmRLC/2_Parts_Inside_Box_1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/YSHhYC9x/2_Parts_Inside_Box_2.jpg
(Above) The contents of the package: a set of later-model iron TT brake calipers and a 1994+ ABS pump/actuator assembly.
If you haven’t already spotted it in the photos, the “mystery” item is a later-model 1994+ ABS pump/actuator. I purchased it as a complete unit, including all factory brake hardlines connecting the pump to the hydraulic system. Having the original hardlines intact is a huge advantage—it means I should be able to unbolt my original ABS pump and swap this unit in without needing to fabricate or modify any brake lines.
https://i.postimg.cc/DzT8LwZP/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/rpkKxwmn/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_2.jpg
(Above) The later-model ABS pump complete with 2+2 base plate and all original hardlines. These lines feed into the hydraulic distribution box, which connects the pump to the rest of the braking system.
The factory part number stamped on the identification plate is 47600-50P00, along with a serial number and the manufacturer’s name, Nippon ABS, LTD.
https://i.postimg.cc/wBQ3VYyb/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_4.jpg
(Above) According to Nissan FAST, part number 47600-50P00 was fitted to both NA and TT Z32 models from September 1993 through to October 1998.
As exciting as this purchase is, there’s one obvious issue: surface rust. The unit appears to have been exposed to the elements for some time, and corrosion has formed on several external components.
That said, I’ve dealt with similar surface rust before and had good success restoring parts to a respectable condition. The main challenge will be figuring out how best to submerge the assembly in Evapo-Rust (or treat it in stages) to remove the corrosion thoroughly. After that, I’ll need to apply a suitable protective coating to prevent future rust from returning.
https://i.postimg.cc/bv9dTfDV/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_5.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/HL9j21cQ/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_3.jpg
(Above) While the rust looks significant at first glance, it appears to be surface-level only.
https://i.postimg.cc/vmtDzwxM/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_7.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/BvBtgfLy/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_6.jpg
(Above) A close-up of the five brake hardlines that connect the pump to the car’s main hydraulic distribution box (located beneath the rear center section of the boot). After careful inspection, I found no kinks or damage to any of the lines, which is reassuring.
Next, I inspected the electrical side of the unit, including the main wiring harness and the internal relay box mounted on the rear of the pump. Fortunately, there were no signs of corrosion in any of the connectors, and the internal relay box looks to be in near-new condition.
https://i.postimg.cc/85kcXXLF/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_8.jpg
(Above) Research suggests that the three main electrical connectors are identical in location and orientation to those on early-model ABS pumps.
https://i.postimg.cc/G23tggvv/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_9.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/26jy99nh/4_Later_Model_ABS_Pump_10.jpg
(Above) Inspecting the internal relay box located at the rear of the pump.
I know some people may question the decision to modify the braking system in this way. Before the ongoing brake-bleeding issues began, I likely wouldn’t have considered it either. However, with no clear resolution to the bleeding problem so far, replacing the ABS pump could potentially eliminate a hidden internal fault. And if I’m going to replace it anyway, it makes sense to consider upgrading to the later-model unit.
The biggest unknowns remain:
• Can the later-model ABS pump be successfully retrofitted into an early Z32?
• If installed, will it function correctly?
As far as I can tell, this hasn’t been attempted before—so I may be the first to try this modification on a 300ZX Z32. My approach is simple: if it works, fantastic. If it doesn’t, I can revert to the original pump and share the results with the community so others know whether this path is viable.
At this point, based on the information I’ve gathered, the potential benefits outweigh the risks. Worst-case scenario, I return to stock. Best-case scenario, I resolve the brake bleeding saga and gain a worthwhile upgrade in the process.

By DJ_Party_Favor · Saturday at 06:502 days
ADAMZX's OEM+ 2000spec Version R Replica Conversion & Rebuild Project Build Thread

POLISHING ONE OF MY OEM ALLOY WHEELS
Taking a short break from all of the recent brake system work, I decided to turn my attention to something a little more cosmetic — my set of bare aluminum OEM wheels. After sitting for the past four years, they were starting to look tired and dull, and it was clear they were long overdue for a proper polish to bring them back to life.
Upon closer inspection, I noticed a layer of oxidation had formed on the bare aluminum since the last time I polished this particular wheel. I was hopeful that a thorough polishing would remove it, but there was only one way to find out.

[i](Above) Back in 2007, I purchased a full set of OEM JDM factory wheels from another Z owner who had already stripped and polished the bare aluminum before selling them to me. Around that time, I learned that the USDM models were offered with factory chrome OEM wheels — a look I instantly fell in love with. Unfortunately, here in Australia, none of the OEM wheels available came in that factory chrome finish. So when a polished set came up for sale, I didn’t hesitate — it was the closest I could get to that chrome look, and I jumped on the opportunity.[/i]
(Below) A close-up of the oxidation that had formed on the surface of the bare aluminum over time.
https://i.postimg.cc/mkxrB7PN/1_Before_Polishing_2.jpg
After about an hour of polishing using an electric drill, a buffing cone, and some purple metal polish, the results were immediately noticeable. The dull, hazy finish was gone, replaced by a reflective, mirror-like shine that closely resembles chrome. I couldn’t have been happier with how the wheel turned out.
Ultimately, I’d love to have all of my OEM alloy wheels finished in a true mirror-like chrome one day. For now, though, the polished aluminum gives me a close enough look to achieve the style I’m going for — and I’m more than happy with it.
It was also a refreshing change of pace from the brake system work I’ve been focused on for the past few months — sometimes it’s nice to see quick, visual progress.
https://i.postimg.cc/wMKBgD15/2_After_Polishing.jpg
(Above) Although the bare aluminum now has a nice reflective, mirror-like shine, the oxidation hasn’t been completely removed. Even after several passes with the polish, I wasn’t able to eliminate any more of the remaining surface oxidation.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to polish the remaining three OEM wheels, but I’m planning to tackle those soon — ideally before reinstalling the refurbished brake calipers on the car.
There’s something incredibly satisfying about bringing old aluminum back to life, and this first wheel is a great reminder of why I’ve always loved the look of polished OEM wheels on this Z.

By DJ_Party_Favor · Saturday at 06:472 days

Change clutch - easy or impossible?

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