OK, I know nearly everyone asks about the heaters, but being quite new and very cold, i have to ask....

 

When i put my heater on auto, and eco, i hardly get any heat from it, also, it seems that i dont get any force of air at all if the engine is cold.

 

I can get warm air if set to approx 20 -24, but if i go higher than that, again the motor sounds as if its working, but no flow of air comes through the vents.

 

Its really getting on my nerves, any ideas what is wrong ?

 

cheers

Martin, when you put it on to Eco it works as a normal flow air system ie: not air con mate, but you should still be able to use the temp settings. If you turn Eco and air con off the vents are IIR set to 25 degrees bud. So should be nice and warm ;)

Try : http://www.ttzd.com/tech/autocctech.html

So its me doing it wrong and not a cuffed up heater ????

 

please tell me its is, as it will be cheaper to solve its my fault lol

Maybe worth a check to see if the pipes have been disturbed/ refitted properly.

T-Pot,

 

There may be a clue in your description, the heater blower will not give full output

(force wise) until the heater matrix circuit is itself warm, this is to prevent the heater blowing cold whilst the engine warms up, you can override this by clicking the fan speed switch to high manually but if the heater circuit is cold then not much point.

 

You could conclude from this that you have a circulation problem caused my blocked matrix (unlikely) a control fault on the operating valve ( likelyish) or an air lock in the system that could be just low water level.

 

With the engine cold, check the water level at the rad cap, if it is not visable then add an antifreeze / water mix, remove the bleed plug on the left hand side of the radiator,and fill there also if required.

 

Now start the engine and make sure the heater controls are set to Auto then econ and the temperature to 40.

 

Run the engine and maintain the water level by adding as required, usually after several mins the rad will start to over flow, replace the cap and bleed plug and take for a short run, when returned switch off and allow to cool for an hour or so, then by removing both the bleed and rad cap you will be able to add a final small top up.

 

Hope that is the problem as it is free to put right, if not it is worth finding someone close by with a ConZult system as air con / heater faults ( valve openings and temperatures etc) can be diagnosed from the readings, the inbuilt self diagnostic is a bit too long to write up here, maybe someone here can supply a link.

 

Jeff TT

Cheers jeff.

I have checked the water levels, and they seem fine though.

I need to get it on a conzult i think,

T-Pot,

 

Another thought, have you done or had done any work under the dashboard? disconnected outlet sensors on the ductings can have odd effects.

 

Jeff TT

ive only had the car 6 weeks, so cant say about previous work sorry mate.

 

nothing done since i had it under the dash

air locks can be removed by running the car whilst parked on a steepish slope...rad cap off any bubbles should rise to the front as the engine warms up...just to add to Jeff's advice....:)

Right, ive tried this today, and my controls seem different to the ones on the sheet...

Mine does not have the little fan icons, but shows the amb temp...

 

this is really getting on my nerves...its hard to look cool when your wearing thermals

it sounds like an air lock to me...i should know i had one last year...too right about getting frozen whilst driving the thing never got hot no matter what setting...eventually after a hard run the air lock blew out along with most of the coolent throught the expansion bottle...i then topped it whilst parked on a slope...took some time and about 4 litres of coolent /water...never done the aircon diagnostic myself so cant help there...but they are tricksy see http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=ha&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=118&design=default&total=168 HTH