Hi guys write up below for headlamp upgrade

Will post pics on rides and link later (edit)

 

Jeff TT

 

Nissan 300 ZX Headlight Upgrade

 

Materials requirements.

Chrome film (Homebase cat No. 4006765780153 Metallic ) £5:99

Silicon sealant (Clear)

 

Tools

10 mm spanner (Open)

10 mm spanner (Ring)

12 mm spanners (Open)

12 mm spanners (Ring)

2 x wide blade screw drivers

1 Phillips screwdrivers

1 x Hairdryer

 

+ (Lots of patience)

 

Headlight removal

 

There are 2 x 12 mm nuts & 2 x 12 mm bolts securing each light unit into the car

 

Off side

First remove 2 x Phillips screws to side indicator (Jap spec) (dark blank on UK spec)

 

Look through opening and locate 12 mm nut and integral washer at top right and remove.

 

Turn wheel on full left lock, remove lower wheel arch protector 5x 10 mm bolts

 

Pull back protector and tuck behind wheel, locate 12 mm bolt and integral washer at top right

 

Remove panel between headlights 2 x 10 mm nuts and washers.

 

Full removal of the airbox is required unless a cone filter is already fitted.

 

Airbox is secured by 10 mm bolts, trunking and the air mass meter which needs to be removed and stored carefully, this is by far the hardest part of the job.

 

Once access to area below airbox is gained look to off side headlamp front close to panel 1 x 12 mm nut and integral washer remove.

 

Same headlight towards rear, near to front slam panel 1 x 12 mm bolt and integral washer remove. As the position is confined the process to undo is fiddly and may take some time using a combination of open and ring spanners.

 

Now ease the headlamp towards the front of the car whilst lifting up ,only gently so as soon as clear the dip and main beam cable connectors can be released.

 

The near side lamp removal is the same with the exception that access to the last bolt in the sequence is fouled by the N/S recirc. valve and it may be an advantage to remove this via 2 x 10 mm nuts and 2 x jubilee clips.

 

Headlamp Dismantling

 

Clean off the external part of the lamp

 

Remove 4 x metal side plates 8 x Phillips screws. and remove rubber surround.

 

Identify 3 beam adjusters remove 3 x grey adjuster housings 6 x Phillips screws

 

Grease cog mechanisms and replace housings.

 

Remove 5 x spring steel glass retainers by gently prising off from the plastic not glass end.

 

Now using the hairdryer warm the entire lamp unit with special attention to the seal between glass and plastic body.

 

Start at the bottom of the lamp, insert the flat blade screw driver and move along levering up and down slightly, continue to warm the seal joint with the hairdryer. It is important to not rush, make small movements slowly working along the bottom seam. Once the bottom seam seams to be moving a little do the same up both sides. No return to the bottom seam again and open up the seam a little more. No move to the top of the light and the last seam, warm for to 2 mins, with the hairdryer and use the screw drivers as before, at some point now the glass will be removable .Clean and wash this and leave to dry, do not remove or damage any of the grey coloured sealant.

 

Having cleaned you hands to ensure none of the sealant gets in to the glass area, turn the light towards you at the bottom front behind the sealant are 2 x Phillips screws, remove these and the whole plastic bezel is removable. There are 3 x Phillips screws holding the projector beam chrome ring on to the bezel, remove this.

 

The chrome film/foil is now basically cut to shape with plenty of surplus to trim as required.

I found I was able to make neat job by cutting a bottom section and two half back sections. When the pieces are cut the backing is best removed in strips so as they are laid in you don't get into to much of a mess. If you have problem start again, as there are glass covered if the film is creased it will show. Wrap the entire bezel and warm with the hairdryer on tricky bits to assist the flexing of the material. Also wrap the projector beam chrome ring and trim. I actually found the shape of the ring to awkward to cover completely and left the front face about 10 mm short and it looks fine.

 

Now is the time to change / uprate bulbs I recommend 100 watt for both dip and main. If you have Jap spec zed you will need to solder an extra earth wire ( approx. 1 foot long) to the base of the bulbs and wire in the separate earth as described later when refitting the headlight units.

 

Having refitted the bezel to the lamp unit, ensure that the glass is clean, warm the old grey sealant on the head light and the glass with the hairdryer, now run a bead of silicon in the groove around the light unit and push the glass into place. Clip the metal glass retainers back on and fit the rubber surround. Refit the four trim plates holding the rubber seal squarely.

 

 

Once the unit is back together allow 1 hour for the sealant to go off , meanwhile grease / oil the nut and bolt threads to the light to aid refitting.

 

As they say in all the good books refit is a reverse job, however remember to reconnect lights and if a Jap spec car pull that extra earth cable through in to the engine bay and secure to a good earth (Rad holding bolts) My advise here is to switch the lights on and test them, its easier to sort out before securing them.

 

Refit all the nuts and bolts ensure the car is on level ground about 4 foot from a wall or garage doors and put dip beam on. Look for the left dip cut off and adjust left and right to get best spread. The height adjust must not go above the height of the cars headlights if a line was set from the top glass to the wall.

 

The time allowed will vary, based on your own skill level or and problems you may encounter but 3 to 4 hours per light isn't bad but you do need to be organised before you start.

 

(Jap spec only)

The spotlights to a degree can be improved, removal of these is via the side indicators 2x Phillips screws. then 3 x 10 mm nuts, push lamp forward from behind and release cable connector. The complete light can be dismantled cleaned and 55 watt bulbs fitted (Jap spec is 35 watt) I do not recommend fitting higher than 55 watt as experience has shown me bulb life becomes very low (3 or 4 weeks in winter!!) due to high temp of bulbs and non vented lamp design. The two plastic (look like glass) ends are removable (clipped in) and chrome film cut and fitted in here. Remove the main reflector 2 x Phillips screws and adjuster clean and fit film in housing where angle of reflector does not cover. Reassemble and refit to car.

 

The spotlamps are really able to be done in a couple of hours (both units)

Hope this helps any one considering the mod and save you some time, The light out put of the dip beam is quite honestly transformed 150% better, and the visual look in the day is striking.

 

 

Good luck Jeff TT

 

 

Excellent writeup Jeff! Call you tomorrow for some unrelated matters.

 

Cheers!

 

Danny

Great write up, thanks Jeff TT, this is badly needed as the dips on Zs are absolute crap.

Does anyone know how to raise the level of the beam as mine are doing a great job of lighting up my front bumper instead of the road! my car is a 92 U.K spec car and doesn't have the in car headlamp adjusters that some Zs have.

Thanks,

Brian.

If you look on the headlamp bodies inside the bonnet there are two little bolt heads that stick up. About 8 or 10 mm heads I think. One moves the headlight left/right, the other up/down.

Jeff TT

On completing the conversion have you had the headlamps checked at an mot centre, the increased light output may have seriously effected the beam pattern. I hope not because it looks great. Just a thort though.

 

Steve.

Thanks all for your comments,Brian, Andy P was dead right with the adjustment, but I mentioned abot the adjusters and greasing them.The reason been that there are two nylon cogs in there and although the lights should move ok they can be abit stiff,if you force the adjuster the nylon cogs split, had this on my last zed and leaves you with no way to adjust whilst light fitted to the car,I did get some replacements from a salvage car eventually and greased them well,unfortrunatley this means removing them from the car AARRGGHH more work, Oh and Steve.r good point about a beam setter test,will get it done later and repost (mate has a mot garage) See Ya Jeff TT

Jeff, i have cut'n'pasted this into a htm file in your rides.

 

no formatting, just enclosed in

 tags.
 

you can upload your version over the top, or edit that to suit, whichever.
 

I will put a link to it from the tech section, if that's okay  

Thanks Craig, wiil upload the pics later. Jeff

Jeff,

 

Do you predict any problems with heat generation of the 100w bulbs with either the foil you've used or the headlamps themselves which I believe are plastic?

Well Coogs mate My previous zed I converted to h4 bulbs with 100w/130w and had no probs for the year I had it,however the lights were still crap as I had`nt thought about the chrome film idea then,does seem its the added reflector surface which has done the trick. Jeff TT

Off the top of your heads, does anyone know how much each head lamp assembly is from Nissan?

any closer to getting the pics up Jeff?

Paul

Hi paulg just for you Jeff TT

Ps be warned they are big pic.

www.z32.org/unsorted/headlamp%20bezel.jpg

www.z32.org/unsorted/headlamp%20split.jpg

www.z32.org/unsorted/finished%20headlamp.jpg

www.z32.org/unsorted/spotlamp.JPG